Roll Bar Or Not?
03-29-2007, 10:40 PM
#1
Instructor
Thread Starter
Roll Bar Or Not?
Now that I am approved for TT and HPDE4, I am considering various safety options. I want to use my racing seat but that leads to 6pt harness, etc.
Which brings up the debate about using a harness without a roll bar installed.
What are my options? I see Autopower advertising a Corvette bolt in unit. Are there others? How much for install? Welded or bolt in?
Should I bite the bullet and do a full cage?
What is the "conventional wisdom"?
Cheers and ears.
Which brings up the debate about using a harness without a roll bar installed.
What are my options? I see Autopower advertising a Corvette bolt in unit. Are there others? How much for install? Welded or bolt in?
Should I bite the bullet and do a full cage?
What is the "conventional wisdom"?
Cheers and ears.
03-30-2007, 08:18 AM
#2
Team Owner
Member Since: Sep 2003
Location: Raleigh / Rolesville NC
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Full Cage is best for saftey. Full cage is PIA for DD or street driving. Full cage drives the value of you car down significatly.
Roll bars are good for saftey with the proper roll bar. Some roll bars are Pieces of junk and give false security. Get lots of input from ppl who have them.
Roll bars are good for saftey with the proper roll bar. Some roll bars are Pieces of junk and give false security. Get lots of input from ppl who have them.
03-30-2007, 12:22 PM
#3
Burning Brakes
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What organization will you be doing TT and HPDE with? I would check what that organizations rules are for the classes that do require roll bars and cages and stick to those specs. This way if you decide to move up you won't have to rip out the one you already put if it doesn't meet their requirements.
IMO if you are going to be using a 6 point harness then at the minimum you should have a roll bar. The whole idea is to keep the roof from collapsing down on your head in case of a severe roll over. Now with just a harness bar the claim is that you won't be able lean your upper body to compensate for a roof colapse if you are all strapped in. The debate is whether or not you buy into that.
Here is one more thing to keep you up thinking at night. The SCCA a few years ago issued an advisory about using a full face helmet in a car with airbags. Seems there have been some reports of airbag deployments that hit the chin area of the helmet with enough force to fracture the wearers jaw! So if you have airbags that can't be disabled, they recommend open face helmet be used.
http://www.mohud-scca.org/Info/downl...20Advisory.pdf
A friend of mine who recently had a 6 point roll bar welded in paid $850 installed. This was for 1 5/8 inch chrome molly tubing, with two of the forward points that go beside the doors being bolted for easier removal.
IMO if you are going to be using a 6 point harness then at the minimum you should have a roll bar. The whole idea is to keep the roof from collapsing down on your head in case of a severe roll over. Now with just a harness bar the claim is that you won't be able lean your upper body to compensate for a roof colapse if you are all strapped in. The debate is whether or not you buy into that.
Here is one more thing to keep you up thinking at night. The SCCA a few years ago issued an advisory about using a full face helmet in a car with airbags. Seems there have been some reports of airbag deployments that hit the chin area of the helmet with enough force to fracture the wearers jaw! So if you have airbags that can't be disabled, they recommend open face helmet be used.
http://www.mohud-scca.org/Info/downl...20Advisory.pdf
A friend of mine who recently had a 6 point roll bar welded in paid $850 installed. This was for 1 5/8 inch chrome molly tubing, with two of the forward points that go beside the doors being bolted for easier removal.
Last edited by 96CELT4; 03-30-2007 at 12:53 PM.
03-30-2007, 01:20 PM
#4
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St. Jude Donor '05
What organization will you be doing TT and HPDE with? I would check what that organizations rules are for the classes that do require roll bars and cages and stick to those specs. This way if you decide to move up you won't have to rip out the one you already put if it doesn't meet their requirements.
IMO if you are going to be using a 6 point harness then at the minimum you should have a roll bar. The whole idea is to keep the roof from collapsing down on your head in case of a severe roll over. Now with just a harness bar the claim is that you won't be able lean your upper body to compensate for a roof colapse if you are all strapped in. The debate is whether or not you buy into that.
Here is one more thing to keep you up thinking at night. The SCCA a few years ago issued an advisory about using a full face helmet in a car with airbags. Seems there have been some reports of airbag deployments that hit the chin area of the helmet with enough force to fracture the wearers jaw! So if you have airbags that can't be disabled, they recommend open face helmet be used.
http://www.mohud-scca.org/Info/downl...20Advisory.pdf
A friend of mine who recently had a 6 point roll bar welded in paid $850 installed. This was for 1 5/8 inch chrome molly tubing, with two of the forward points that go beside the doors being bolted for easier removal.
IMO if you are going to be using a 6 point harness then at the minimum you should have a roll bar. The whole idea is to keep the roof from collapsing down on your head in case of a severe roll over. Now with just a harness bar the claim is that you won't be able lean your upper body to compensate for a roof colapse if you are all strapped in. The debate is whether or not you buy into that.
Here is one more thing to keep you up thinking at night. The SCCA a few years ago issued an advisory about using a full face helmet in a car with airbags. Seems there have been some reports of airbag deployments that hit the chin area of the helmet with enough force to fracture the wearers jaw! So if you have airbags that can't be disabled, they recommend open face helmet be used.
http://www.mohud-scca.org/Info/downl...20Advisory.pdf
A friend of mine who recently had a 6 point roll bar welded in paid $850 installed. This was for 1 5/8 inch chrome molly tubing, with two of the forward points that go beside the doors being bolted for easier removal.
03-30-2007, 01:40 PM
#5
Cartoon Character
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If you want to avoid the depreciation that a roll bar causes, you may wish to buy a bolt in bar from these guys:
http://www.autopowerindustries.com/
I would imagine that some of the forum supporters are dealers for these items. I have used these bars and cages with great success over the years and they fit very well. It should be fairly easy to get it into your car if you remove the roof panel as opposed to fighting like a bast*rd to struggle it into a Camaro like I have done...
Depreciation avoidance is achieved by removing the bar and filling the bolt holes along with carpet replacement..
SCCA and NASA and FIA only allow ERW or DOM as the tube material...
Goldster, think someone is going to "pipe" up and recommend thinwall conduit because it is just as safe and a lot cheaper for the beginner?
http://www.autopowerindustries.com/
I would imagine that some of the forum supporters are dealers for these items. I have used these bars and cages with great success over the years and they fit very well. It should be fairly easy to get it into your car if you remove the roof panel as opposed to fighting like a bast*rd to struggle it into a Camaro like I have done...
Depreciation avoidance is achieved by removing the bar and filling the bolt holes along with carpet replacement..
SCCA and NASA and FIA only allow ERW or DOM as the tube material...
Goldster, think someone is going to "pipe" up and recommend thinwall conduit because it is just as safe and a lot cheaper for the beginner?
Last edited by Tintin; 03-30-2007 at 01:44 PM.
03-30-2007, 01:41 PM
#6
Burning Brakes
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03-30-2007, 01:49 PM
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From the SCCA Solo rule book ( autocross )
SCCA APPENDIX C - SOLO ROLL BAR STANDARDS
A. BASIC DESIGN CONSIDERATIONS
1. The basic purpose of the roll bar is to protect the driver in
case the vehicle rolls over. This purpose should not be forgotten.
2. The top of the roll bar shall not be below the top of the
driver’s helmet when the driver is in normal driving position,
and shall not be more than six inches behind the driver. It is
strongly suggested that the roll bar extend at least three
inches above the driver’s helmet. In case of two driver cars,
both drivers must be within the roll bar height requirement,
however only one driver must be within six inches of the roll
bar. In a closed car equipped with a roll bar/cage, it must be
as close as possible to the interior top of the car.
3. The roll bar must be designed to withstand compression
forces resulting from the weight of the car coming down on
the roll structure, and to take fore-and-aft loads resulting
from the car skidding along the ground on the roll structure.
4. The two vertical members forming the sides of the hoop shall
not be less than fifteen inches apart (inside dimension). It is
desirable that the roll bar extend the full width of the cockpit
to provide maximum bearing area in all soil conditions during
rollovers. The roll bar vertical members on formula cars
and other single seat cars with a center driver position must
be not less than fifteen inches apart, inside dimension, at
their attachment points to the uppermost main chassis member.
5. An inspection hole of at least 3/16 inch diameter must be
drilled in a non-critical area of a roll bar member to facilitate
verification of wall thickness. This should be at least three
inches from any weld or bend.
6. It is recommended that steel gusset plates be used at all
welds. Gussets should be at least two inches long on each
leg and 3/16 inches thick.
7. It is recommended that roll bars be coated only with a light
coat of paint. If, however, a roll bar should be chrome-plated,
it is recommended that the structure be normalized.
8. Post or tripod types of roll bars are not acceptable.
B. MATERIAL
After 9-22-85, aluminum is not an acceptable alternate material.
Cars using aluminum roll bars or roll cages must file proof with
the SD that the structure was approved prior to 9-22-85 as provided
in this section.
1. The roll bar hoop and all braces must be of seamless, ERW,
or DOM mild steel tubing (SAE 1010, 1020, 1025) or equivalent,
or alloy steel tubing (SAE 4130). It is strongly recommended
that roll bars not be constructed of ERW due to
quality and strength concerns.
2. The size of tubing to be used shall be determined on the
basis of the weight and speed potential of the car. The following
minimum sizes are required required and are based
upon the weight of the car without the driver.
a) Over 1500 lbs.-min. of 1-1/” 2 o.d. x .120" wall or 1-3/4"
o.d. x .095" wall
b) Over 1000 lbs.-min. of 1-1/4" o.d. x .090" wall
c) Under 1000 lbs.-min. of 1" o.d. x .060" wall
Dimensions are nominal. 0.005” variation in wall thickness is
allowed.
3. Each mounting plate shall be at least .080" thick if welded and
3/16" thick if bolted. A minimum of 3 bolts per plate is required
for bolted mounting plates.
4. All bolts and nuts shall be SAE Grade 5 or better, 5/16" minimum
diameter.
C. FABRICATION
1. One continuous length of tubing must be used for the hoop
member with smooth continuous bends and no evidence of
crimping or wall failure.
2. All welding must be of the highest possible quality with full
penetration and will be subjected to very critical inspection.
Arc welding, particularly heliarc, should be used wherever
possible.
D. BRACING
1. It is recommended that braces be of the same size tubing as
used for the roll bar itself.
2. All roll bars must be braced in a manner to prevent movement
in a fore-and-aft direction with the brace attached
within the top one-third of the roll hoop, and at an angle of at
least thirty degrees from vertical. It is strongly recommended
that two such braces be used, parallel to the sides of the car,
and placed at the outer extremities of the roll bar hoop. Such
braces should extend to the rear whenever possible.
3. It is suggested that roll bars include a transverse brace from
the bottom of the hoop on one side to the top of the hoop on
the other side.
E. MOUNTING PLATES
1. Roll bars and braces must be attached to the frame of the car
wherever possible. Mounting plates may be used for this
purpose where desired.
2. In the case of cars with unitized or frameless construction,
mounting plates may be used to secure the roll bar structure
to the floor of the car. The important consideration is that the
load be distributed over as large an area as possible. A
backup plate of equal size and thickness must be used on the
opposite side of the panel with the plates through-bolted
together.
F. REMOVABLE ROLL BARS
Removable roll bars and braces must be very carefully designed
and constructed to be at least as strong as a permanent installation.
If one tube fits inside another tube to facilitate removal, the
removable portion must bottom on the permanent mounting,
and at least two bolts must be used to secure each such joint.
The telescope section must be at least eight inches in length.
G. INSTALLATION ON CARS OF SPACE FRAME AND FRAMELESS
DESIGN
1. It is important that roll bar structures be attached to cars in
such a way as to spread the loads over a wide area. It is not
sufficient to simply attach the roll bar to a single tube or
junction of tubes. The roll bar must be designed in such a
way as to be an extension of the frame itself, not simply an
attachment to the frame. Considerable care must be used to
add as necessary to the frame structure itself in such a way
as to properly distribute the loads. It is not true that a roll bar
can only be as strong as any single tube in the frame.
H. ROLL CAGES
It is recommended but not mandatory that all cars utilize a roll
cage as defined in Section 18 of the GCR.
I. ROLL BAR PADDING
Braces and portions of the main hoop subject to contact by the
driver’s or passenger’s helmet, as seated normally and restrained
by seatbelt and harness, must be padded with a nonresilient
material such as Ethafoam (R) or Ensolite (R) or other
similar material with a minimum thickness of one-half inch.
SCCA APPENDIX C - SOLO ROLL BAR STANDARDS
A. BASIC DESIGN CONSIDERATIONS
1. The basic purpose of the roll bar is to protect the driver in
case the vehicle rolls over. This purpose should not be forgotten.
2. The top of the roll bar shall not be below the top of the
driver’s helmet when the driver is in normal driving position,
and shall not be more than six inches behind the driver. It is
strongly suggested that the roll bar extend at least three
inches above the driver’s helmet. In case of two driver cars,
both drivers must be within the roll bar height requirement,
however only one driver must be within six inches of the roll
bar. In a closed car equipped with a roll bar/cage, it must be
as close as possible to the interior top of the car.
3. The roll bar must be designed to withstand compression
forces resulting from the weight of the car coming down on
the roll structure, and to take fore-and-aft loads resulting
from the car skidding along the ground on the roll structure.
4. The two vertical members forming the sides of the hoop shall
not be less than fifteen inches apart (inside dimension). It is
desirable that the roll bar extend the full width of the cockpit
to provide maximum bearing area in all soil conditions during
rollovers. The roll bar vertical members on formula cars
and other single seat cars with a center driver position must
be not less than fifteen inches apart, inside dimension, at
their attachment points to the uppermost main chassis member.
5. An inspection hole of at least 3/16 inch diameter must be
drilled in a non-critical area of a roll bar member to facilitate
verification of wall thickness. This should be at least three
inches from any weld or bend.
6. It is recommended that steel gusset plates be used at all
welds. Gussets should be at least two inches long on each
leg and 3/16 inches thick.
7. It is recommended that roll bars be coated only with a light
coat of paint. If, however, a roll bar should be chrome-plated,
it is recommended that the structure be normalized.
8. Post or tripod types of roll bars are not acceptable.
B. MATERIAL
After 9-22-85, aluminum is not an acceptable alternate material.
Cars using aluminum roll bars or roll cages must file proof with
the SD that the structure was approved prior to 9-22-85 as provided
in this section.
1. The roll bar hoop and all braces must be of seamless, ERW,
or DOM mild steel tubing (SAE 1010, 1020, 1025) or equivalent,
or alloy steel tubing (SAE 4130). It is strongly recommended
that roll bars not be constructed of ERW due to
quality and strength concerns.
2. The size of tubing to be used shall be determined on the
basis of the weight and speed potential of the car. The following
minimum sizes are required required and are based
upon the weight of the car without the driver.
a) Over 1500 lbs.-min. of 1-1/” 2 o.d. x .120" wall or 1-3/4"
o.d. x .095" wall
b) Over 1000 lbs.-min. of 1-1/4" o.d. x .090" wall
c) Under 1000 lbs.-min. of 1" o.d. x .060" wall
Dimensions are nominal. 0.005” variation in wall thickness is
allowed.
3. Each mounting plate shall be at least .080" thick if welded and
3/16" thick if bolted. A minimum of 3 bolts per plate is required
for bolted mounting plates.
4. All bolts and nuts shall be SAE Grade 5 or better, 5/16" minimum
diameter.
C. FABRICATION
1. One continuous length of tubing must be used for the hoop
member with smooth continuous bends and no evidence of
crimping or wall failure.
2. All welding must be of the highest possible quality with full
penetration and will be subjected to very critical inspection.
Arc welding, particularly heliarc, should be used wherever
possible.
D. BRACING
1. It is recommended that braces be of the same size tubing as
used for the roll bar itself.
2. All roll bars must be braced in a manner to prevent movement
in a fore-and-aft direction with the brace attached
within the top one-third of the roll hoop, and at an angle of at
least thirty degrees from vertical. It is strongly recommended
that two such braces be used, parallel to the sides of the car,
and placed at the outer extremities of the roll bar hoop. Such
braces should extend to the rear whenever possible.
3. It is suggested that roll bars include a transverse brace from
the bottom of the hoop on one side to the top of the hoop on
the other side.
E. MOUNTING PLATES
1. Roll bars and braces must be attached to the frame of the car
wherever possible. Mounting plates may be used for this
purpose where desired.
2. In the case of cars with unitized or frameless construction,
mounting plates may be used to secure the roll bar structure
to the floor of the car. The important consideration is that the
load be distributed over as large an area as possible. A
backup plate of equal size and thickness must be used on the
opposite side of the panel with the plates through-bolted
together.
F. REMOVABLE ROLL BARS
Removable roll bars and braces must be very carefully designed
and constructed to be at least as strong as a permanent installation.
If one tube fits inside another tube to facilitate removal, the
removable portion must bottom on the permanent mounting,
and at least two bolts must be used to secure each such joint.
The telescope section must be at least eight inches in length.
G. INSTALLATION ON CARS OF SPACE FRAME AND FRAMELESS
DESIGN
1. It is important that roll bar structures be attached to cars in
such a way as to spread the loads over a wide area. It is not
sufficient to simply attach the roll bar to a single tube or
junction of tubes. The roll bar must be designed in such a
way as to be an extension of the frame itself, not simply an
attachment to the frame. Considerable care must be used to
add as necessary to the frame structure itself in such a way
as to properly distribute the loads. It is not true that a roll bar
can only be as strong as any single tube in the frame.
H. ROLL CAGES
It is recommended but not mandatory that all cars utilize a roll
cage as defined in Section 18 of the GCR.
I. ROLL BAR PADDING
Braces and portions of the main hoop subject to contact by the
driver’s or passenger’s helmet, as seated normally and restrained
by seatbelt and harness, must be padded with a nonresilient
material such as Ethafoam (R) or Ensolite (R) or other
similar material with a minimum thickness of one-half inch.
03-30-2007, 02:41 PM
#8
Burning Brakes
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Thanks, but I meant I didn't have an NCCC rule book with me. He wasn't trying to follow SCCA specs, only NCCC. Hell, usually NCCC just takes directly from SCCA rules so it may not even be legal for NCCC!
03-30-2007, 02:45 PM
#9
Cartoon Character
Member Since: Jun 2006
Location: Can't be more than 114... Arizona
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Now that I am approved for TT and HPDE4, I am considering various safety options. I want to use my racing seat but that leads to 6pt harness, etc.
Which brings up the debate about using a harness without a roll bar installed.
What are my options? I see Autopower advertising a Corvette bolt in unit. Are there others? How much for install? Welded or bolt in?
Should I bite the bullet and do a full cage?
What is the "conventional wisdom"?
Cheers and ears.
Which brings up the debate about using a harness without a roll bar installed.
What are my options? I see Autopower advertising a Corvette bolt in unit. Are there others? How much for install? Welded or bolt in?
Should I bite the bullet and do a full cage?
What is the "conventional wisdom"?
Cheers and ears.
Ah, I see that you are in a neighbouring community as I am in North Scottsdale. If you wish to see an Autopower bar I have one installed in my vintage racer, a 66 Mustang. Drop me a pm and I will give you directions. When you say HPDE4 I think you are indicating NASA? If your car is a coupe I think you will be ok with the hardbar thing at Firebird but I would want the race rollbar at PIR. AZ Motorsports Park is on the cusp of reopening as well , so you will want a roll bar there as too. For those outside AZ, Firebird is so tight that it is hard to get to 100 mph in an unmodified car on the straights of either the east or west track. That being said, I have hit 130 on the east track in a 2500 pound 450 hp car so you should judge for yourself... I like to overdo the safety thing.. I also have a lot of self discipline at the track and only drive about 85-90% when there is no prize money or network TV involved. Many are not able to do that so they crash a lot...
03-30-2007, 03:43 PM
#10
Team Owner
Member Since: Nov 2005
Location: Beach & High Desert Southern California
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???
SAE 4130 = Chrome Moly
That being said, DOM is easier to weld and does not require post-weld heat treatment (if you want the slight weight advantage of 4130 know the capabilities of your fabricator).
From the SCCA Solo rule book ( autocross )
SCCA APPENDIX C - SOLO ROLL BAR STANDARDS
B. MATERIAL
1. The roll bar hoop and all braces must be of seamless, ERW,
or DOM mild steel tubing (SAE 1010, 1020, 1025) or equivalent,
or alloy steel tubing (SAE 4130). It is strongly recommended
that roll bars not be constructed of ERW due to
quality and strength concerns.
SCCA APPENDIX C - SOLO ROLL BAR STANDARDS
B. MATERIAL
1. The roll bar hoop and all braces must be of seamless, ERW,
or DOM mild steel tubing (SAE 1010, 1020, 1025) or equivalent,
or alloy steel tubing (SAE 4130). It is strongly recommended
that roll bars not be constructed of ERW due to
quality and strength concerns.
That being said, DOM is easier to weld and does not require post-weld heat treatment (if you want the slight weight advantage of 4130 know the capabilities of your fabricator).
03-30-2007, 03:50 PM
#11
Racer
Member Since: Dec 2004
Location: Gold Canyon, Arizona
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FWIW
I Inquired about an Autopower roll bar from a non vendor and got this response -
"Yes the 70401 Race Bar does fit the C5 Z06. A friend and customer of ours has one in his 2003 Z06. It does block some of the rear vision out the back window at the very top field of view. But less than some other roll bars I've seen in the Corvettes. I've even seen some "Custom Built" roll bars that block the view even more. So for the money I think the Autopower Race bar is a good way to go. Just in case you didn't see the notes, it does require welding 4 plates on your car. The roll bar then bolts to those 4 plates."
CV since you are with ACR at NASA, check with Jon Schade's car he has an Autopower, Red C5 Coupe.
(I'm hoping to run again soon with ACR, working too much over the weekends)
I Inquired about an Autopower roll bar from a non vendor and got this response -
"Yes the 70401 Race Bar does fit the C5 Z06. A friend and customer of ours has one in his 2003 Z06. It does block some of the rear vision out the back window at the very top field of view. But less than some other roll bars I've seen in the Corvettes. I've even seen some "Custom Built" roll bars that block the view even more. So for the money I think the Autopower Race bar is a good way to go. Just in case you didn't see the notes, it does require welding 4 plates on your car. The roll bar then bolts to those 4 plates."
CV since you are with ACR at NASA, check with Jon Schade's car he has an Autopower, Red C5 Coupe.
(I'm hoping to run again soon with ACR, working too much over the weekends)
Last edited by Tom03Z06; 03-30-2007 at 03:56 PM.
03-30-2007, 03:51 PM
#12
Race Director
If you want to avoid the depreciation that a roll bar causes, you may wish to buy a bolt in bar from these guys:
http://www.autopowerindustries.com/
I would imagine that some of the forum supporters are dealers for these items. I have used these bars and cages with great success over the years and they fit very well. It should be fairly easy to get it into your car if you remove the roof panel as opposed to fighting like a bast*rd to struggle it into a Camaro like I have done...
Depreciation avoidance is achieved by removing the bar and filling the bolt holes along with carpet replacement..
SCCA and NASA and FIA only allow ERW or DOM as the tube material...
Goldster, think someone is going to "pipe" up and recommend thinwall conduit because it is just as safe and a lot cheaper for the beginner?
http://www.autopowerindustries.com/
I would imagine that some of the forum supporters are dealers for these items. I have used these bars and cages with great success over the years and they fit very well. It should be fairly easy to get it into your car if you remove the roof panel as opposed to fighting like a bast*rd to struggle it into a Camaro like I have done...
Depreciation avoidance is achieved by removing the bar and filling the bolt holes along with carpet replacement..
SCCA and NASA and FIA only allow ERW or DOM as the tube material...
Goldster, think someone is going to "pipe" up and recommend thinwall conduit because it is just as safe and a lot cheaper for the beginner?
does this mean your NOT a fan of black water pipe??
...redvetracr
03-30-2007, 03:56 PM
#13
Cartoon Character
Member Since: Jun 2006
Location: Can't be more than 114... Arizona
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03-30-2007, 11:26 PM
#14
Instructor
Thread Starter
Ah, I see that you are in a neighbouring community as I am in North Scottsdale. If you wish to see an Autopower bar I have one installed in my vintage racer, a 66 Mustang. Drop me a pm and I will give you directions. When you say HPDE4 I think you are indicating NASA? If your car is a coupe I think you will be ok with the hardbar thing at Firebird but I would want the race rollbar at PIR. AZ Motorsports Park is on the cusp of reopening as well , so you will want a roll bar there as too. For those outside AZ, Firebird is so tight that it is hard to get to 100 mph in an unmodified car on the straights of either the east or west track. That being said, I have hit 130 on the east track in a 2500 pound 450 hp car so you should judge for yourself... I like to overdo the safety thing.. I also have a lot of self discipline at the track and only drive about 85-90% when there is no prize money or network TV involved. Many are not able to do that so they crash a lot...
This Sunday it's Firebird East. Next Saturday at Phoenix International. I have a 2002 ZO6 with a few suspension tweeks, but otherwise stock.
It sounds like Autopower may be my best bet. I will PM you when I can take the time to come see your set-up. I appreciate the offer.
Cheers,
CV
Last edited by az55; 03-31-2007 at 05:46 PM.
03-30-2007, 11:38 PM
#15
Instructor
Thread Starter
FWIW
I Inquired about an Autopower roll bar from a non vendor and got this response -
"Yes the 70401 Race Bar does fit the C5 Z06. A friend and customer of ours has one in his 2003 Z06. It does block some of the rear vision out the back window at the very top field of view. But less than some other roll bars I've seen in the Corvettes. I've even seen some "Custom Built" roll bars that block the view even more. So for the money I think the Autopower Race bar is a good way to go. Just in case you didn't see the notes, it does require welding 4 plates on your car. The roll bar then bolts to those 4 plates."
CV since you are with ACR at NASA, check with Jon Schade's car he has an Autopower, Red C5 Coupe.
(I'm hoping to run again soon with ACR, working too much over the weekends)
I Inquired about an Autopower roll bar from a non vendor and got this response -
"Yes the 70401 Race Bar does fit the C5 Z06. A friend and customer of ours has one in his 2003 Z06. It does block some of the rear vision out the back window at the very top field of view. But less than some other roll bars I've seen in the Corvettes. I've even seen some "Custom Built" roll bars that block the view even more. So for the money I think the Autopower Race bar is a good way to go. Just in case you didn't see the notes, it does require welding 4 plates on your car. The roll bar then bolts to those 4 plates."
CV since you are with ACR at NASA, check with Jon Schade's car he has an Autopower, Red C5 Coupe.
(I'm hoping to run again soon with ACR, working too much over the weekends)
The visibility will probably be OK as long as I can see Pete Creek, Dave Hurley and Shirl Dickey filling my mirrors!
ACR is great, I hope you can come out soon. I have a problem with week-ends, too. That's why I can only run one day!
Cheers,
cv
03-31-2007, 12:07 PM
#16
Cartoon Character
Member Since: Jun 2006
Location: Can't be more than 114... Arizona
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Yes, I'm running NASA. I also run with Proautosports.(yes, i've become a track ***** and will run whenever I can)
This Sunday it's Firebird East. Next Saturday at Phoenix International. I have a 2002 ZO6 with a few suspension tweeks, but otherwise stock.
It sounds like Firepower may be my best bet. I will PM you when I can take the time to come see your set-up. I appreciate the offer.
Cheers,
CV
This Sunday it's Firebird East. Next Saturday at Phoenix International. I have a 2002 ZO6 with a few suspension tweeks, but otherwise stock.
It sounds like Firepower may be my best bet. I will PM you when I can take the time to come see your set-up. I appreciate the offer.
Cheers,
CV
03-31-2007, 05:40 PM
#17
Instructor
Thread Starter
Cheers,
CV
03-31-2007, 07:18 PM
#18
Team Owner
Member Since: Sep 2003
Location: Raleigh / Rolesville NC
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FIA wont approve it until Ferrari Crash tests two of each car. Yah right.
03-31-2007, 08:12 PM
#19
Burning Brakes
Now that I am approved for TT and HPDE4, I am considering various safety options. I want to use my racing seat but that leads to 6pt harness, etc.
Which brings up the debate about using a harness without a roll bar installed.
What are my options? I see Autopower advertising a Corvette bolt in unit. Are there others? How much for install? Welded or bolt in?
Should I bite the bullet and do a full cage?
What is the "conventional wisdom"?
Cheers and ears.
Which brings up the debate about using a harness without a roll bar installed.
What are my options? I see Autopower advertising a Corvette bolt in unit. Are there others? How much for install? Welded or bolt in?
Should I bite the bullet and do a full cage?
What is the "conventional wisdom"?
Cheers and ears.
www.pfadtracing.com
Call Aaron or Racer Robbin at 888-972-2464
They are Corvette racers
03-31-2007, 10:49 PM
#20
Instructor
Thread Starter
PFADT Race Engineering has a very nice bolt in. I have one for my C6 that I use for HPDEs.
www.pfadtracing.com
Call Aaron or Racer Robbin at 888-972-2464
They are Corvette racers
www.pfadtracing.com
Call Aaron or Racer Robbin at 888-972-2464
They are Corvette racers
I just saw that this afternoon when I was "sufing" at work. It looks really good and the Chromoly is only 200 bucks more than DOM. The visibility looks good, too. Why do they call it a "chassis stiffening" bar? Liability issues? BTW, has anyone ever seen a roll over with either the Autopower or the PFadt? Come to think about it, has anybody ever tested their bars? I'd hate to be the first to learn that they don't protect effectively!
Cheers,
CV
