Need new brake pads.... get Wilwood H's again? Anything new/better?
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Need new brake pads.... get Wilwood H's again? Anything new/better?
Run through 2 sets of Wilwood H's over the past few years and have been pleased with the performance.
Is there anything out there better? Any new compounds that are the "hot" thing?
I'm only running HPDEs w/ oem calipers, SS lines w/ AN fittings, and Ford HD fluid (or Superblue depending on which bleed).
Is there anything out there better? Any new compounds that are the "hot" thing?
I'm only running HPDEs w/ oem calipers, SS lines w/ AN fittings, and Ford HD fluid (or Superblue depending on which bleed).
#4
Melting Slicks
Carbotech
Brian take this as yet another opinion from someone with a dozen DEs.
I went through 2 sets of Z06 pads before I bumped up. First I ran XP8s on all 4 corners and liked them. Similar pedal feel to the Z06 pads with a more bite and tolerance for a 25 minute session. They are nice entry level race pad that I can run with the stock Supercars or Nitto R2s.
I tried 1 set of XP10/XP8 so far. The XP10s are more aggressive at stopping but also harder on rotors. I've almost killed the XP10s now due to pad taper. Definitely have brake ducts with these or higher. I have a brand new set of XP12/XP10 at home waiting for May on VIR Full. From what I understand these are aggressive to the point where you should probably have real race tires like V710s or R6s.
As far as brake dust goes. Well they will blacken your wheels for sure. Or you're not trying hard enough Compared to Hawks the dust is not corrosive and won't stick your wheels permanently like Hawks. After a weekend on track I clean my track wheels when I get time. The dust cleans off with soap and water and elbow grease. Even if the wheels got wet and then dried. Dust still comes off easy enough.
When I ran the XP8 they wore pretty even and I wasn't seeing horrible pad taper. With the XP10 I'm seeing it more. I'll assume it is the higher temp of the pad/rotor/caliper. I suspect the XP12 is only going to make it worse.
Graham
I went through 2 sets of Z06 pads before I bumped up. First I ran XP8s on all 4 corners and liked them. Similar pedal feel to the Z06 pads with a more bite and tolerance for a 25 minute session. They are nice entry level race pad that I can run with the stock Supercars or Nitto R2s.
I tried 1 set of XP10/XP8 so far. The XP10s are more aggressive at stopping but also harder on rotors. I've almost killed the XP10s now due to pad taper. Definitely have brake ducts with these or higher. I have a brand new set of XP12/XP10 at home waiting for May on VIR Full. From what I understand these are aggressive to the point where you should probably have real race tires like V710s or R6s.
As far as brake dust goes. Well they will blacken your wheels for sure. Or you're not trying hard enough Compared to Hawks the dust is not corrosive and won't stick your wheels permanently like Hawks. After a weekend on track I clean my track wheels when I get time. The dust cleans off with soap and water and elbow grease. Even if the wheels got wet and then dried. Dust still comes off easy enough.
When I ran the XP8 they wore pretty even and I wasn't seeing horrible pad taper. With the XP10 I'm seeing it more. I'll assume it is the higher temp of the pad/rotor/caliper. I suspect the XP12 is only going to make it worse.
Graham
Last edited by vms4evr; 04-09-2007 at 02:21 PM.
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Hey Brian,
If you decide to stick with the Wilwoods I have dozens in stock and can set you up at a great price. (to low to post)
If you decide to stick with the Wilwoods I have dozens in stock and can set you up at a great price. (to low to post)
#6
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I ran carbotechs for a while, changed to H-pads for two sets, and just tried Carbotechs again. From my experience - the h-pads kill rotors. That said, they stop like crazy and last quite a while. It became ridiculous how often I was swapping rotors (multiple per weekend), so I wanted something different (a friend of mine just started doing this last weekend also). The carbotechs I just went through (xp12 front, xp10 rear) lost some braking distance (main difference is the initial bite), but the rotors actually lasted!!! As in more than one weekend! The pads (fronts) only made it through three full days though (5 hours), where the h-pads lasted double that time.
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Oh... and I too used to go through rotors like crazy... but I foud that going 80 then to 100% on the stop pedal has ended my rotor cracking days.
My last 3 events I made it through the whole weekend w/o having to change rotors on wood. Before when I was going 100% the whole time (what I learned back in '03 at Panoz) I was cracking rotors daily.
That said... I ALWAYS have spare rotors with me.
My last 3 events I made it through the whole weekend w/o having to change rotors on wood. Before when I was going 100% the whole time (what I learned back in '03 at Panoz) I was cracking rotors daily.
That said... I ALWAYS have spare rotors with me.
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St. Jude '03-'04-'05-'06
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Thanks
Phil
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#14
Le Mans Master
I run PFC-01s on my track car but Lou Gigliotti has just posted that he has changed from PFC to Cobalt (never heard of em?) on his racecar, and says they are the best stopping pad he has ever used AND that he uses them on his street car (C6 Z06). Search for his post.
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I ran at Watkins Glen, Lime Rock, and NHIS.
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I'm giving Carbotech XP12 and XP10s a shot... the promise of non-corrosive, non-sticking, no damn need to clay bar my car after each track event has me stoked
#18
Drifting
I use the 10's and 8's right now and will go to the 12 and 10 set up. I run NAPA rotors and they last many track sessions and are only $27 each. (The T-1 guys use this set up quite successfully)