Where to buy Fire Extinguisher and Mount??
#1
Pro
Thread Starter
Where to buy Fire Extinguisher and Mount??
I am a new auto-x'er and I need the very basic seat mounted bracket and fire extinguisher for events. What products should I buy and who has them for the best price? I don't need the absolute best or anything, just standard is fine.
Thanks!
Thanks!
#3
Burning Brakes
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I have a C5 RD Racing mount for sale. $30 plus shipping. Extinguisher not included. PM me if interested or for photos.
Last edited by Red Guts; 04-23-2007 at 04:38 PM. Reason: It's a C5 mount
#4
Pro
Thread Starter
Thanks for the offer but I think I am going to go with the BK bracket. Right now I am having trouble finding and extinguisher. I'm not sure which model to get or where to buy one. The Halon models all seem really expensive!
#8
Drifting
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St. Jude Donor '06-'07-'08
I went with the BK mount, quick-release bracket (very cool!), and 2.5 lb. halon extinguisher on my 06 Z06.
The obvious drawback to mounting it in front of the seat is that it restricts forward seat movement. On the driver's side, this will be an issue if you ordinarily drive with the seat close or move it closer on the track (I do the latter). On the passenger side (at least in the Z), there is no power adjustment, so you use the adjustment lever on the front of the seat. The extinguisher mounting bracket definitely interferes with this; if you plan to mount the extinguisher in front of the passenger seat, you basically need to slide the seat all the way back and leave it there.
The obvious drawback to mounting it in front of the seat is that it restricts forward seat movement. On the driver's side, this will be an issue if you ordinarily drive with the seat close or move it closer on the track (I do the latter). On the passenger side (at least in the Z), there is no power adjustment, so you use the adjustment lever on the front of the seat. The extinguisher mounting bracket definitely interferes with this; if you plan to mount the extinguisher in front of the passenger seat, you basically need to slide the seat all the way back and leave it there.
#9
Le Mans Master
Try www.speeddirect.com
https://cmc.speeddirect.com/AMAZING/...p=&iTpStatus=1
or http://www.vetteworksonline.com/
Either one has what you want. The most cost effective is a dry chemical extinguisher. The halon/halotron (there is a difference between the two) are better for interior fires and now so good for exterior stuff.
https://cmc.speeddirect.com/AMAZING/...p=&iTpStatus=1
or http://www.vetteworksonline.com/
Either one has what you want. The most cost effective is a dry chemical extinguisher. The halon/halotron (there is a difference between the two) are better for interior fires and now so good for exterior stuff.
#11
Pro
Thread Starter
I ordered the BK from Northstar yesterday afternoon. They said it should be here by tomorrow. I still have yet to decide on an extinguisher. I'm having trouble finding a Halon for a decent price (yikes they are expensive). I seriously plan on never using it. We have guys in my club who have raced for years and never once used it. I only plan on autocrossing. So maybe I will go with a dry chemical?
#12
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#14
Drifting
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St. Jude Donor '06-'07-'08
#15
Tech Contributor
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I have the BK bracket and for a number of years I had a 5BC Dry Chemical fire extinguisher from Home Depot mounted to it with a metal mounting plate that I had also picked up at Home Depot. The mounting plate had only one clamp to hold the extinguisher and there were a few times it was kicked loose when I got in or out of the car. However, I threw everything out last year after I had the clamp come loose as I was braking for the heel of the boot at Watkins Glen. The extinguisher flew forward got tied up in my feet and as I left off the brake and went around the turn the thing moved so it was interfering with the clutch so I headed to the pits with my hand out of the window and coasted to a stop where I could get out of the car and get the thing from behind the pedals. Now I will only run the thing in NCCC events since they require it because I run aftermarket brake calipers. Not sure why it should be required since I don't have to have it if I go back to stock calipers. To be any use it should be in reach of the driver when restrained which eliminates the passenger seat postion, the roll bar since the driver can't twist around while restrained and most other positions other than in front of the driver which still requires the driver to loosen his restraints to be able to reach forward.
Bill
Bill
#16
Safety Car
It is dead simple to make the "bracket". All you really need to do is connect the two front seat mount bolts with a piece of flat stock.
Took about a half hour including the wait for the rattle can paint to dry.
Took about a half hour including the wait for the rattle can paint to dry.
#17
Instructor
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I ordered the BK from Northstar yesterday afternoon. They said it should be here by tomorrow. I still have yet to decide on an extinguisher. I'm having trouble finding a Halon for a decent price (yikes they are expensive). I seriously plan on never using it. We have guys in my club who have raced for years and never once used it. I only plan on autocrossing. So maybe I will go with a dry chemical?
(1) Halotron (formerly Halon, no longer manufactured because it wasn't very environmentally friendly) is a "clean agent", meaning when discharged, it will not leave any damaging/messy residue. It is ONLY rated for (in a vehicle-sized extinguisher) class B fires (flammable liquids, gasses, greases) and class C fires (energized electrical equipment). It will have VERY LITTLE OR NO IMPACT on class A fires (ordinary combustibles - like carpeting, paper, wood, etc). It is also quite pricey to purchase and recharge, as you are finding out.
(2) ABC Dry Chemical (Ammonium Phosphate based) is by far the most widely used type of extinguisher across the board. It has good effectiveness on class A, B and C fires, is readily available everywhere, and is inexpensive to purchase and maintain. This type of extinguisher discharges a dry powder, which makes quite a mess, will pretty much destroy electrical components, and if not thoroughly cleaned up, will corrode metal surfaces.
Since it seems like you just need an extinguisher to comply with race regs, I would advise the latter type (there are others like CO2 and Water, but they do not apply here). Check the yellow pages, or google search out your nearest fire equipment company to get the best and quickest result.
SPECIAL NOTE: DO NOT go down to a Target, Wal-Mart, hardware store, etc, and buy a KIDDE or other cheap brand there - KIDDE extinguishers are ABSOLUTE CRAP, as they lose pressure very often, and are horribly unreliable. I wish these places would quit selling them.
That is my $.02 for all it's worth - hope I didn't e-talk your ear off, but I could go on forever LOL
Last edited by corvette49rdave; 04-27-2007 at 12:51 AM. Reason: Spelling error LOL
#18
Melting Slicks
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Not to get into a pissing match but why wouldn't you want to go with the Halotron at least once the fire is out the car isn't permenantly damaged. Dry Chemical may be more effective but it destroy's everything it touches. I would think that most fires in race cars are either electrical or grease/gas fires which would be taken care of from with a Halotron.
I've seen what happens to cars after dry chemical is used on them and needless to say it's an absolute mess.
At least you've given everyone all of the information on each type of extinguisher so they can make there own educated decision. It's good to have all the facts.
I've seen what happens to cars after dry chemical is used on them and needless to say it's an absolute mess.
At least you've given everyone all of the information on each type of extinguisher so they can make there own educated decision. It's good to have all the facts.