jfrc

I posted awhile back that I was running hot oil temps, which really lowered my oil pressure by the end of an autoX day. Everybody recommended an oil cooler. It is now installed, so i am ready to test the system for leaks. Crank it up - no pressure. So i immediately turn it off. I pull the fuel pump fuse and plug wires, and continue to turn engine over a few times, let it rest,and repeat. No oil pressure. I try this off and on for 15-20 minutes until battery is low. I go ahead and crank it one more time, let it idle for about 30 sec, still no pressure. What gives? Level on dipstick is high. How long should it take to get some pressure?
BTW- i have a race next weekend, and would really like to get this neverending project done

2000BSME

I primed my system with as much oil before hand as I could (hot oil flows the best), then pulled my ignition ground (fuse would work also) and turned over the engine for a good many times before I got pressure. You probably just didn't prime your system good enough, and the volume your asking of your pump it too high to fill quickly.

Disconnect the return and see it oil has made it through the cooler yet.

-btw, I find it very hard to believe that you were running high temps on your oil for an autox. Do you know what high is? I run 300*F oil at HPDE's, that is why I installed an oil cooler. During an autox, my automatic transmission fluid doesn't even have time to get 'high', I can't imagine your engine oil temps getting out of hand in that short amount of time.

0Randy@DRM

Something is wrong. Any oil cooler system should work after that many cranks. Gauge, pluged lines or cooler, oil pump plunger stuck or something of that nature. When the car fired up and idled, did it sound like a crap or did it run ok??? Is this one of my setups???

Randy

jfrc

the drivers header is undone at the collector, since i to drop it to fasten the cooler lines
it was a little loud of course, but engine sounds fine

FasterIsBetter

Just an odd thought here, but did you check to be sure the wire is still connected to the oil pressure sensor? You might want to put a manual gauge into the oil gallery to verify that the gauge is reading correctly.

vms4evr

I installed Randy's (DRM) standalone oil cooler. Filled the cooler and the oil filter with oil. Bumped the engine for a few second run a few times. Then started it and let it run. My oil pressure came up right away. I didn't have to do any major priming, fuse pulling, etc...

Did you also install a thermostat inline? Or anything beyond just plumbing 2 lines in/out of the oil cooler?

davidfarmer

what kind of adapter are you using at the engine??? The pressure sensor is on the back of the engine, so I doubt it would have been damaged in this install. Did you check to make sure the cooler was clear before you put it on (did you blow through it, so to speak?)

jfrc

i yanked off the lines and used a pump to flow oil through
it gushed through the line and the cooler- what a friggin mess
cranked it back up- still no pressure

btw- no thermostat

at this point, i'm at a loss
i guess this weekend, i'll have to start over
remove the header, again, and yank the lines to the block and bolt on the stock temp unit. gotta start eliminating some areas i guess.

2000BSME

If you have flow, you likely have pressure, I would start at the Oil Pressure sender, and do a remote mount shown in the Tech section sticky by 427 HEMI.

hook up another gauge from the autoparts store, yours may be bad.

VetteDrmr

Before I installed my oil cooler, I was hitting temps in the high 280s when finishing up a heat (stock LS-1). Z06s can run higher.

As far as the oil pressure issue goes, I would disconnect the oil cooler setup, put the original oil temp block back on (assuming it's the adapter above the oil filter, and yes, I know it's a pain), and see if your oil pressure comes back.

If it does, and the oil cooler system is full, then you could have some kind of blockage within the system that will let oil flow slowly, but when pressurized restricts the flow too much.

I had that happen with an aircraft hose I built up "back in the day." The fitting mandrel cut a sort of divot out of the inner hose liner. The divot wasn't completely cut free, but had a flap of rubber holding it down. Visual inspection didn't find anything, but when I ran a water hose through, that divot made an excellent check valve.

Not saying that's the problem, but I'd want to know the problem is in the engine itself or in the oil cooler system.

HTH, and have a good one,
Mike

davidfarmer

again, WHO's adapter are you using. Are you going into the OEM temp sensor bulkhead, or using an adapter at the filter etc??? If you haven't already done so, might want to put a new filter on. I've seen them get blocked almost completely