Nedd some suggestions for differential seal replacement......
#1
Burning Brakes
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Nedd some suggestions for differential seal replacement......
It looks like my drivers side diff seal is on its way out after NHIS and I want to get a new one in before the next race. I have the seal but all I can seem to find for instructions on how to tear into it is the GM TSB that basicaly has you ripping the entire side cover off the diff, among other needless things. What is the easiest way to tackle it? Should I go as if I am replacing a rear bearing and then try to pop the axle out? How hard is it to get the old seal out? I've seen another way where the guy stated that all you have to do is drop the top of the shock and the upper a-arm and everything folds down and pulls the axle out. Is this true? Never tackled this before and I'm just looking for the best way to not have any issues. Thanks guys!
Joe
Joe
#2
Melting Slicks
Are you needing to replace only the left side drive axle seal ????? If so take loose: rear drive axle nut, rear tie rod end from knuckle ( can do with out but helps ), rear brake caliper w/bracket (do not break hydraulic system ) and rear differential vibration dampner. Rotate rear knuckle to extract drive axle from wheel bearing ( tie rod end removal helps here ), pry drive axle from differential carefully and extract seal...........Reverse of disassembly. Should take approx 1 hour.
Make sure it is coming from the seal, and not from the differential vent above it.........An overfilled diff will discharge fluid from the vent every time. Diff fluid capacity capacity= 1.69 quarts, which will not run fluid out of fill hole.
EDIT: Removing left side muffler/exhaust pipe will aid in seal extraction and reinstallation.
Make sure it is coming from the seal, and not from the differential vent above it.........An overfilled diff will discharge fluid from the vent every time. Diff fluid capacity capacity= 1.69 quarts, which will not run fluid out of fill hole.
EDIT: Removing left side muffler/exhaust pipe will aid in seal extraction and reinstallation.
Last edited by RAFTRACER; 05-30-2007 at 12:25 AM.
#3
Burning Brakes
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Are you needing to replace only the left side drive axle seal ????? If so take loose: rear drive axle nut, rear tie rod end from knuckle ( can do with out but helps ), rear brake caliper w/bracket (do not break hydraulic system ) and rear differential vibration dampner. Rotate rear knuckle to extract drive axle from wheel bearing ( tie rod end removal helps here ), pry drive axle from differential carefully and extract seal...........Reverse of disassembly. Should take approx 1 hour.
Make sure it is coming from the seal, and not from the differential vent above it.........An overfilled diff will discharge fluid from the vent every time. Diff fluid capacity capacity= 1.69 quarts, which will not run fluid out of fill hole.
EDIT: Removing left side muffler/exhaust pipe will aid in seal extraction and reinstallation.
Make sure it is coming from the seal, and not from the differential vent above it.........An overfilled diff will discharge fluid from the vent every time. Diff fluid capacity capacity= 1.69 quarts, which will not run fluid out of fill hole.
EDIT: Removing left side muffler/exhaust pipe will aid in seal extraction and reinstallation.
Joe
#4
Race Director
It will take longer than an hour the first time.....
Sometime brand new seals will leak as well, so I'd absolutely make sure it is not overfilled (even a drop) before going through all of the work.
Sometime brand new seals will leak as well, so I'd absolutely make sure it is not overfilled (even a drop) before going through all of the work.
#5
Le Mans Master
Those seals don't last long before they start leakng again. They seem to start leaking after about 2-3,000 miles. Why is it always the driver's side that leaks?
#6
Race Director
cause you turn right a lot more......and you notice the slosh
Again, DON'T Overfill even a drop, or even a good seal can leak.
Sometimes it will leak at one track, and you'll never see it again at other tracks. I always had the most problem at low-speed, high-G corners.
Again, DON'T Overfill even a drop, or even a good seal can leak.
Sometimes it will leak at one track, and you'll never see it again at other tracks. I always had the most problem at low-speed, high-G corners.
#7
Burning Brakes
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Update!
After some digging and talking to a couple of people I found out exactly why my seal started leaking. It wasn't an overfill, heck, it wasn't the seals fault at all. The bearing that is pressed into the inside of the side cover had come out of the "seat" and was just kind of riding on the shaft. I had to take the cover off, press the bearing back in and button everything back up. Apparently that bearing stabilizes the shaft enough to prevent it from wobbling and unsealing the seal. If it comes loose the seal is not far behind from failure. It's all buttoned up now, hopefully it stays together this time!
Thanks everyone!
Joe
After some digging and talking to a couple of people I found out exactly why my seal started leaking. It wasn't an overfill, heck, it wasn't the seals fault at all. The bearing that is pressed into the inside of the side cover had come out of the "seat" and was just kind of riding on the shaft. I had to take the cover off, press the bearing back in and button everything back up. Apparently that bearing stabilizes the shaft enough to prevent it from wobbling and unsealing the seal. If it comes loose the seal is not far behind from failure. It's all buttoned up now, hopefully it stays together this time!
Thanks everyone!
Joe