bowmanized

I have 500whp using a vortech kit. Hotchkis Sway bars and Bilstein shocks. I have race pads and race fluid but I'm wondering if the stock brakes are up to the task of slowing. I'll be running fat hoosiers too. Going out to infineon at the end of the month. I already grabbed a foot full of floorboard at Laguna Seca when I made the mistake of running ceramics.

davidfarmer

Get some cooling ducts and good fluid, and they'll be OK. Infineon isn't a high speed track, so I think you should be able to manage if everything is freshly serviced.

Just remember, true "race pads" have really really high temperature ranges, 1400 deg or so, and it is hard to dissipate that much heat with 12.8" rotors unless you put in true, sealed air ducts like those from LG.

BTW, you might want to "downgrade" to non Z51- rotors.

AU N EGL

The Stock PBR Calipers, with real Race pads, DOT5.1 brake fluid and non-d/s rotors will stop faster them most BBKs.

As David suggested, cooling & non Z51 rotors.

BTW What brake pads & fluid are you using?

bowmanized

Hawk HT 14s in the front and 10s in the rear.

MOTUL RBF 600

Also I already have cracking on each of the drilled spots. They're tiny cracks, maybe 1/8" long both up and down from each hole.

Is that alright? How do you know when you need new rotors?

Which rotors do you recommend? Can I save weight by going to the two piece?

AU N EGL

Now would or before your next event would be a good time.

if the cracks go from hole to hole or out to the edge, or you can put a fnger nail in them, time for new ones.

Starting out a weekend with minor cracks, more then heat checks, could result in a major crack at any time.

davidfarmer

unless you enjoy burning money, just get the NAPA rotors and convert to non-Z51 brackets. If you do not get some good cooling to those pads, you will melt the pistons right out of your calipers. HT14's are VERY hot pads, and you need major airflow to keep your components health.

Trash those cracked rotors yesterday!

Sidney004

Infinion is very light on brakes, no comparison to Laguna Seca. I think this is because the brakes have an opportunity to cool down between the heavy braking zones at 11 and 7. Post a picture of your heat checked rotors.

davidfarmer

if your rotors are cracking at all, I'd change them. Sears Point isn't "hard" on brakes, but you use them frequently.

AU N EGL

I have seen a few guys with small 1/8" cracks say the same thing. Not wanting to change the rotors.

Late in the first day a rotor cracked, he tapped the brakes, the brake pad grabbed the rotor and spone the car around and into a wall.

Change the rotors for your saftey.

z060ntrack

DRM Brake Ducts (although a PITA to install)
LG Spindle Ducts / Phoenix Spindle Ducts
StopTech SS lines
Motul RBF 600
Wilwood H pads (front and back)
Titanium backing plates http://www.pfyc.com/pc/GN4021/VTSUSP...t+Shields.html
Napa Rotors

Go like Hell, hey this is fun spending YOUR money.

bowmanized

AU N EGL

Change them. Those cracks will increase and expand with one more hard session, if they dont crack all the way though.