allanlaw

I'm thinking of adding some 3 1/2" silicone hose to the stock front brake ducts to extend them to a point nearer the rotors. I recall that someone else has done this - I would like to hear from you if you have and find out how you connected the hose to the ducting - screws, band clamp, adhesive, etc. Thanks. BTW I'm not interested in aftermarket brake ducts and spindle connections.

Rob's 73

I used 3" dryer hose. To fasten to the brake ducts, I drilled two holes up top and two on the bottom so that I could zip tie the hose to the duct. Then I used some duct tape to seal it up.

This is on my C5 Z06. I added the C6 Z06 brake duct extensions.

davidfarmer

Unless you are running aftermarket rotors, you are waisting your time. The rotors are backward on one side, and you'll have a cool side, and and even hotter hot side.

Stoptech will have drop-in rotors soon, and I'm holding out for that.

allanlaw

I'm looking at the DBA 4000 single piece rotor as a cheap improvement. I agree that adding the spindle duct arrangement on a reversed rotor is suicide - the air coming in will be fighting the air going out . . .

gkmccready

Um, aren't the HardbarUSA 2pc rotors drop-in for the C6Z already?

C6400hp

Yes, but they are pretty spendy.

davidfarmer

I raced with Stoptech for years, and know their metallurgy is the best around. I'm waiting on them based on prior experience. I'm sure hardbar and/or RB's rotors are fine....but I want Stoptech.

CodeBlack

Thanks for posting this information, stupid me was going to purchase spindle ducts for my stock C6Z06 brake setup. Again thanks, I'll wait till I roast my stock rotors and then I'll make the changes

dvandentop

any idea on price point for the stoptech stuff?

should i hold out over the dba 4000 set if i can?

John Shiels

2012



like buying two left shoes just dump that crap backwards rotors

gonzalezfj

Absolutely NOT TRUE. Both stock rotors pump air from the hub to the periphery. Although the air flow may not be the same, both rotors cool themselves just fine. If anything, I have had more cracks on the "good side", i.e.: the driver's side rotor which has the "properly curved vanes".

I have used the stock rotors for 3 seasons with little trouble, except they crack due to the #$%^&* bling holes in them.

By all means, install the cooling ducts.

The DBA rotors seem like a worthwhile improvement. I just purchased and installed a pair of them and look forward to trying them out at VIR later this month.

Frank Gonzalez

klasik-69

Just for the sake of argument, how much good is there by ducting in the air from the front. What is the difference with the air naturally occuring around the spindle during travel versus the air being brought in by ducts ? Are we trying to avoid "re-cycling" hot air coming off the outside of the rotors, and if not, has anyone actually measured the temperature of the air with and without the ducts installed ? Don't anyone jump my case, I'm not saying this isn't worthwhile, but I am asking if anyone has real data to back up all this effort.

95jersey

I agree that the stock C6Z rotors are better than one might suspect. I run pretty darn hard and they have held up pretty good, especially for drilled rotors. Also, I have heard the the lip in front of the wheel well, actually helps pull heat out of the wheel, by deflecting on coming air around the outside of the tire, that would normally prevent the hot air from escaping using brake ducts. Can anyone confirm this? I have not put a pyrometer on my stock rotors, but compared to the same tracks I ran with my 01Z, the C6Z brakes seem to definately run cooler. I remember the brakes on my 01, would get SO hot that the actual rim would scotch you to the touch. In checking my brakes after a session with the new Z, I have not seen the same kind of heat and are using similar grade race pads.

davidfarmer

I bought hose from Aircraft spruce. Cut the ABS sensor bracket, zip-tip that connector to the reverse side of the spindle, then put the hose in where the sensor use to be. I use safety wire, one loop around the upright, one loop around the steering arm (part of the upright). Make sure you install it wi the wheel turned towards you, so that it will be long enough to turn in both directions.

Don't know how much it helps, as I'm not running sealed spindle ducts right now, but I stop from over 170 at VIR repeatedly with Synpower, and never have a bit of fade.


***Franks going to give us some data on running the rotors forward vs backward, but unless the flow is within 5%, I'm still dissapointed that GM did it!

0Jon @ LGMotorsports

We offer a nice solution to the C6Z guys with the stock plastic ducts. They work quite nicely. Ill get Anthony post up some pics

0Anthony @ LGMotorsports

Ask and you shall receive.




These are going like cold drinks on a 105 degree Texas summer day, so call for yours today!!!!

Rob Willis

What's the metal fabricated piece where it attaches to the plastic duct??

Something you've improved upon and changed a little since the originals.

That is where I'm having one hell of time keeping the driver's side attached. Keeps coming off no matter what (zipties, pop rivets, clamps, etc).

Rob Burgoon

How much for the Z06 duct attachments? Do you buy a spindle kit with that to complete the system?

allanlaw

Here we are, one year later, and my homebrew ducts are still where I put them (dirtier, of course). They bring a lot of air to the rotor-hub area - the inside of my front wheels are blown clear of brake dust to about the midway point (where the rotor blocks further airflow).

gkmccready

What tubing did you use?