What type of clutch do you use?
#1
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What type of clutch do you use?
What type of clutch does everyone here use for AX/HPDE and why?
I have a lot of friends that drag race and I've seen what they use and I was just curious if there were different brands/types (single disc, twin?) that might be better for track use that lasts longer than 12 seconds or so
I still have my stock LS6 clutch and it's starting to get the sticky pedal and some slippage so it's time to choose the new one.
Thanks!
I have a lot of friends that drag race and I've seen what they use and I was just curious if there were different brands/types (single disc, twin?) that might be better for track use that lasts longer than 12 seconds or so
I still have my stock LS6 clutch and it's starting to get the sticky pedal and some slippage so it's time to choose the new one.
Thanks!
#3
Burning Brakes
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My pedal is going also - dealer didn't cover since it hasn't totally failed yet (Hendricks Chevrolet in Cary, NC is the greatest). So, I have a Spec3 going in tomorrow - will post up some feedback after NCM in a week.
#4
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#5
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I went through a RPS in about 11k miles, so I'm now working with an Ls7. for roadcourse/street runs its feels fine.
#6
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We just started using the Exedy Twin Disk clutch and have two 3 hour enduros on it, plus about 10 more hours of testing without problems. Still early, but hope it helps a bit.
#7
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CI 3-5-6-7-8 Veteran
Don't go w/ the LS7... any cluch designed by LUK will have the stickey pedal, it's inherent to the pressure plate design.
I have a LUK Stage II w/ the Fidanza aluminum flywheel. I've had it in since '05 and probably 30,000+ miles.
I have the drill mod to remove the restriction from the return line (allows full fluid return), all my hydraulics are wrapped in header wrap and DEI cool tape, have a remote bleed line, and run ATE superblue fluid.
The biggest change is removing the oem clutch return spring... it's made for old ladies wanting to drive a manual in stop/go traffic and is one of the largest players in the sticking clutch.
Remove it and you'll be shocked at the difference. Just a few weekends ago at VIR Grey GT-C was having issues and asked me about it. After simply removing the spring his clutch sticking problems went away and he could heel/toe just fine.
HTH,
Brian
I have a LUK Stage II w/ the Fidanza aluminum flywheel. I've had it in since '05 and probably 30,000+ miles.
I have the drill mod to remove the restriction from the return line (allows full fluid return), all my hydraulics are wrapped in header wrap and DEI cool tape, have a remote bleed line, and run ATE superblue fluid.
The biggest change is removing the oem clutch return spring... it's made for old ladies wanting to drive a manual in stop/go traffic and is one of the largest players in the sticking clutch.
Remove it and you'll be shocked at the difference. Just a few weekends ago at VIR Grey GT-C was having issues and asked me about it. After simply removing the spring his clutch sticking problems went away and he could heel/toe just fine.
HTH,
Brian
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The spring makes the pedal easier to push in and hold on the floor for daily driving... I think they feel way too soft and sloppy. After removing the spring the clutch is a little harder to push in, but nothing bad at all especially compared to the old clutch I had in my stang.
It feels far crisper and the engagement is more positive. Try it... you can always put it back in.
I've had mine out for over 3 years. I tried putting it back in once just for ****s/giggles and my pedal started sticking again when heel/toeing at VIR. I pulled right in and yanked the bitch out, then went back out... all was perfect again.
It feels far crisper and the engagement is more positive. Try it... you can always put it back in.
I've had mine out for over 3 years. I tried putting it back in once just for ****s/giggles and my pedal started sticking again when heel/toeing at VIR. I pulled right in and yanked the bitch out, then went back out... all was perfect again.
#10
Race Director
The spring makes the pedal easier to push in and hold on the floor for daily driving... I think they feel way too soft and sloppy. After removing the spring the clutch is a little harder to push in, but nothing bad at all especially compared to the old clutch I had in my stang.
It feels far crisper and the engagement is more positive. Try it... you can always put it back in.
I've had mine out for over 3 years. I tried putting it back in once just for ****s/giggles and my pedal started sticking again when heel/toeing at VIR. I pulled right in and yanked the bitch out, then went back out... all was perfect again.
It feels far crisper and the engagement is more positive. Try it... you can always put it back in.
I've had mine out for over 3 years. I tried putting it back in once just for ****s/giggles and my pedal started sticking again when heel/toeing at VIR. I pulled right in and yanked the bitch out, then went back out... all was perfect again.
#11
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Thanks for the responses, guys! Keep 'em coming!
Brian, how do you remove this spring, where is it located, and is it easy to put back in? I assume it is on the pdeal itself somewhere in the footwell.
The biggest change is removing the oem clutch return spring... it's made for old ladies wanting to drive a manual in stop/go traffic and is one of the largest players in the sticking clutch.
Remove it and you'll be shocked at the difference. Just a few weekends ago at VIR Grey GT-C was having issues and asked me about it. After simply removing the spring his clutch sticking problems went away and he could heel/toe just fine.
HTH,
Brian
Remove it and you'll be shocked at the difference. Just a few weekends ago at VIR Grey GT-C was having issues and asked me about it. After simply removing the spring his clutch sticking problems went away and he could heel/toe just fine.
HTH,
Brian
#12
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Look under your clutch pedal... you'll see it. It's a bit of a bitch to get out... it helps to have someone use a long jack handle to push the pdeal in, then use a screwdrive to pop it off of the groove in the clutch pedal it rests in. It's about the same to put back in.
My money is on it never going back in once removed. I though removing this spring was common knowldege!
HTH.
B
My money is on it never going back in once removed. I though removing this spring was common knowldege!
HTH.
B
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#14
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Personally I don't want to add more effort to depress the clutch since my Cartek clutch requires a little effort over stock to start with.
I agree with Bryan's recommendations for the drill mod to increase flow, insulating all hydraulic lines, and most importantly, a remote bleeder line.
I agree with Bryan's recommendations for the drill mod to increase flow, insulating all hydraulic lines, and most importantly, a remote bleeder line.
Last edited by Dr Chill; 06-26-2007 at 07:24 PM.
#15
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The drill mod, remote bleeder, and insulation of fluid lines will come when I replace my clutch. For now, I removed the spring and went for a "spirited" drive and the sticky clutch pedal didn't not happen once. Thanks for the suggestion, Brian!