danswofford

It appears that my rear cradle is off center about 1/8th of an inch and for rear alignment purposes I thought I'd move it over. There are 4 bolts holding it to the frame. But there appears to be locating pins next to the two rearward bolts. I thought it was just a matter of loosening the 4 bolts and whacking the cradle over. The pins are not going to let that happen.

How do I do it?

davidfarmer

you'll need to grind the pins down, or at least grind the 1/8" off of the side you are moving from. The bolts are pretty long, so drop the cradle down as far as you can and see if you can get clearance to the pins. If not, you'll need to drop them down onto jack stands/jack, etc. Don't go too far or your engine will hit the fire wall and/or the torque tube will hit the panel between it and the exhaust.

You could also open up the holes the pins go into...either way will work.

0Randy@DRM

Or just get rid of the stock pins! We use a 1/4 inch roll pin from Ace hardware. So get it right and drill new holes.

Randy

MrEracer

There's an easier way to get more negative camber than moving the cradle... You can get another 1.5 degree of negative camber on any corner of a C5 by removing the spindle from the upper and lower 'A' arms, removing the hub/bearing assy and angle milling the bearing mount face. Don't forget to mill the caliper mount holes the same amount.

I have done this on my road race C5 on the right front and right rear spindles and it worked great...
Shirl Dickey

danswofford

How does this roll pin work? What is a roll pin? Do you just cut off the existing pin, relocate the cradle the drill a hole and somehow drive in a new pin?

danswofford

I've got -1.5 in the rear and I don't want more. I just installed some plates that replace the OEM cam. When installed, the right rear was one degree more camber than the left side, I can fiddle about with different plates, but moving the cradle looked like fun.

danswofford

The pins function is to keep the cradle in place. So would either grinding the pins or grinding the cradle lead to some possibility of the cradle moving?

When you suggest grinding the pins down are you saying removing them altogether? And just letting the clamping force of the 4 studs and nuts do the job?

0Randy@DRM

http://www.engineersedge.com/roll_pin.htm
This is about the most information I have ever seen on a roll pin

The stock pins can be knocked out of the cradle incase you need to put it back to stock.

After you get it in to position and tighten down. Take out your drill and find a flat spot. Mark your spot and start the drilling. It goes pretty easy until you hit the steel chassis. Then tap the pin in to place. If you ever remove the cradle again use the same holes again.

If you are worried about the cradle moving around use both. Do the farmer trick and our trick. Then you will be double covered we do that on cars with big power and slicks.

Randy

0Randy@DRM

HAHA I known you where going to ask about the cradle moving around.

Randy

danswofford

Yup. When I drive at the track I want to see other cars receding in the road behind me, in my rear view mirror, rather than my cradle laying in the road.

danswofford

[QUOTE

The stock pins can be knocked out of the cradle incase you need to put it back to stock.
[/QUOTE]

So the stock pins are just pushed in from under and don't have some kind of bolt or collar above. So, in any case I could just pull it out or twist it out?

Rob Burgoon

Is this "cradle" the same as what the shop manual calls the crossmember?