High temp ducting for C6 Z06 brake ducts
#1
Pro
Thread Starter
High temp ducting for C6 Z06 brake ducts
A buddy of mine and forum member helped me install C6 Z06 brake extension ducts on my C5 Z06. The ducts came out great and we used 4" alum dryer hose to extend to the rotor. I am thinking about using a 2.5" high temp duct instead, so it connects to the plastic extension with a tight fit (I think that is the size of the outlet?), and so the hose doesn't rub on the inside of the rim. I also think that I may be able to run the duct closer to the spindle (I am not using spindle ducts at this time).
Where can I get some good 2.5" high temp flexible ducting (it doesn't need to be the red high temp stuff... I think the black will work for my purposes).
Thanks,
cj
Where can I get some good 2.5" high temp flexible ducting (it doesn't need to be the red high temp stuff... I think the black will work for my purposes).
Thanks,
cj
#2
Drifting
You definitely want to replace the aluminum dryer hose. It isn't made for the almost constant flexing brake ducts experience.
Do a yahoo search on "brake duct hose". You'll find several vendors with several diameters and types.
Do a yahoo search on "brake duct hose". You'll find several vendors with several diameters and types.
#3
Safety Car
I just finished the same install and I used some 2 1/2" X .080 aluminum tube cut to 2 1/2" long and inserted it 1 1/4" into the C6 duct and pop rivetted it. This left me 1 1/4" to fit some 2 1/2' AERO DUCT on and it worked great. It's tough getting any tubing to fit onto the end of that C6 duct and stay there.
#6
Race Director
seems like I used 2.75" hose....anyway, the better sealed the better the cooling, although It is still hard to get enough air through the bottom-fed cooling ducts to actually help rotor life.
#7
Pro
Thread Starter
I just finished the same install and I used some 2 1/2" X .080 aluminum tube cut to 2 1/2" long and inserted it 1 1/4" into the C6 duct and pop rivetted it. This left me 1 1/4" to fit some 2 1/2' AERO DUCT on and it worked great. It's tough getting any tubing to fit onto the end of that C6 duct and stay there.
Thanks,
cj
#8
Pro
Thread Starter
search spruce aircraft supplies sceet hose
here did it http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/appages/sceet.php
here did it http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/appages/sceet.php
cj
#9
Safety Car
The white tape on each of the pieces show approximately where I made my cuts. After cutting the stock ducts, I switched the short end of the cut between the left and right sides of the car. You do this so that the canted tabs still fit the fender well opening properly. I used the 2 1/2" X .080 tubing for the transition to the Scat duct (red stuff) and I used the 4" X .080 tubing to facilitate reattaching the cut, rotated, and side switched factory duct. I also relocated the wheel sensor connection bracket by buying two new brackets and cutting them as shown by the white tape. A dremel tool removed the upper portion of the existing bracket. The spindle ducts are made from the same 2 1/2" tubing and some 1"X 3/16"' aluminum flat bar. It may not look Doug Rippie perfect but it works well and didn't cost me over $40.
Good luck with your project. Have fun.
Last C5
#10
Pro
Thread Starter
I will NOT apologize for the photography, it's the best I can do.
The white tape on each of the pieces show approximately where I made my cuts. After cutting the stock ducts, I switched the short end of the cut between the left and right sides of the car. You do this so that the canted tabs still fit the fender well opening properly. I used the 2 1/2" X .080 tubing for the transition to the Scat duct (red stuff) and I used the 4" X .080 tubing to facilitate reattaching the cut, rotated, and side switched factory duct. I also relocated the wheel sensor connection bracket by buying two new brackets and cutting them as shown by the white tape. A dremel tool removed the upper portion of the existing bracket. The spindle ducts are made from the same 2 1/2" tubing and some 1"X 3/16"' aluminum flat bar. It may not look Doug Rippie perfect but it works well and didn't cost me over $40.
Good luck with your project. Have fun.
Last C5
The white tape on each of the pieces show approximately where I made my cuts. After cutting the stock ducts, I switched the short end of the cut between the left and right sides of the car. You do this so that the canted tabs still fit the fender well opening properly. I used the 2 1/2" X .080 tubing for the transition to the Scat duct (red stuff) and I used the 4" X .080 tubing to facilitate reattaching the cut, rotated, and side switched factory duct. I also relocated the wheel sensor connection bracket by buying two new brackets and cutting them as shown by the white tape. A dremel tool removed the upper portion of the existing bracket. The spindle ducts are made from the same 2 1/2" tubing and some 1"X 3/16"' aluminum flat bar. It may not look Doug Rippie perfect but it works well and didn't cost me over $40.
Good luck with your project. Have fun.
Last C5
Where did you buy the alum tubing and also the SCAT duct?
That is exactly the result I want on my car.
Thanks,
cj
#11
Safety Car
Any metal you need can be purchased at www.onlinemetals.com and shipped to your door. They sell almost everything by the foot so you don't need to buy a 21' length.
If you look at your spindle you'll find two empty holes in it. Lightly polish the insides of the holes with a 3/8" drill bit and then tap them with a 7/16" X 14 tap. It's just cast aluminum so tapping it is easy. A couple of 7/16" X 1" X 14 stainless bolts with lock washers then will hold the 1" X 3/16" flat bar to the spindle. The top of the flat bar bent at about an 80 degree angle to hold the spindle duct tubing which can be welded, pop rivetted, or bolted to the flat bar. The top bolt is used to hold on the modified bracket for the wheel sensor connection. (you cut off the old bracket right along the hub without removing the lower portion) Get your wheel and rotor off and you'll see what I mean.
Scat tubing is readily available from a lot of places. Try www.aerocraftparts.com for one. They sell it by the foot. You'll need about 4' ( 2' to screw up and 2' to use ) Actually that stuff won't last forever so you might as well get a little extra for future replacement. Hope this helps.
If you look at your spindle you'll find two empty holes in it. Lightly polish the insides of the holes with a 3/8" drill bit and then tap them with a 7/16" X 14 tap. It's just cast aluminum so tapping it is easy. A couple of 7/16" X 1" X 14 stainless bolts with lock washers then will hold the 1" X 3/16" flat bar to the spindle. The top of the flat bar bent at about an 80 degree angle to hold the spindle duct tubing which can be welded, pop rivetted, or bolted to the flat bar. The top bolt is used to hold on the modified bracket for the wheel sensor connection. (you cut off the old bracket right along the hub without removing the lower portion) Get your wheel and rotor off and you'll see what I mean.
Scat tubing is readily available from a lot of places. Try www.aerocraftparts.com for one. They sell it by the foot. You'll need about 4' ( 2' to screw up and 2' to use ) Actually that stuff won't last forever so you might as well get a little extra for future replacement. Hope this helps.
#12
Pro
Thread Starter
Any metal you need can be purchased at www.onlinemetals.com and shipped to your door. They sell almost everything by the foot so you don't need to buy a 21' length.
If you look at your spindle you'll find two empty holes in it. Lightly polish the insides of the holes with a 3/8" drill bit and then tap them with a 7/16" X 14 tap. It's just cast aluminum so tapping it is easy. A couple of 7/16" X 1" X 14 stainless bolts with lock washers then will hold the 1" X 3/16" flat bar to the spindle. The top of the flat bar bent at about an 80 degree angle to hold the spindle duct tubing which can be welded, pop rivetted, or bolted to the flat bar. The top bolt is used to hold on the modified bracket for the wheel sensor connection. (you cut off the old bracket right along the hub without removing the lower portion) Get your wheel and rotor off and you'll see what I mean.
Scat tubing is readily available from a lot of places. Try www.aerocraftparts.com for one. They sell it by the foot. You'll need about 4' ( 2' to screw up and 2' to use ) Actually that stuff won't last forever so you might as well get a little extra for future replacement. Hope this helps.
If you look at your spindle you'll find two empty holes in it. Lightly polish the insides of the holes with a 3/8" drill bit and then tap them with a 7/16" X 14 tap. It's just cast aluminum so tapping it is easy. A couple of 7/16" X 1" X 14 stainless bolts with lock washers then will hold the 1" X 3/16" flat bar to the spindle. The top of the flat bar bent at about an 80 degree angle to hold the spindle duct tubing which can be welded, pop rivetted, or bolted to the flat bar. The top bolt is used to hold on the modified bracket for the wheel sensor connection. (you cut off the old bracket right along the hub without removing the lower portion) Get your wheel and rotor off and you'll see what I mean.
Scat tubing is readily available from a lot of places. Try www.aerocraftparts.com for one. They sell it by the foot. You'll need about 4' ( 2' to screw up and 2' to use ) Actually that stuff won't last forever so you might as well get a little extra for future replacement. Hope this helps.
cj
#14
Safety Car
#15