NoOne

11:30pm last night I turned the last bolt.

Pfadt poly bushings installed, camber kit installed...now I need to get it aligned and corner weighted this afternoon.

I originally bought Gary's camber kit with the idea of doing a track/street alignment. That is still my plan but with my event tomorrow I know I'll be too busy to swap stuff over and I'd rather play with that part at home.

So I'm looking for an aggressive alignment I can drive to the track on.

I'll drive 120 miles to the track, run all day, and drive 120 home. After that the car might see some very light street miles and then away for the winter.

In the spring I'll get to the track/street setup.

How far can I go without chewing up my new MX's?

Not a bad job overall and a little over 5 hours to put all 4 corners together. Just under 2 hours to disassemble, this was for the Pfadt bushing kit and Hardbar's camber kit.

Everything fit perfect and I thought getting the lowers lined up was going to be a PITA but was suprised how easy it was. Also amazed at the stability of the car on 4 jackstands at the lift points.

Gary gave me some spec's but of course did not write them down, of course I came into work for a few hours, have a presentation to give, and then on the flatbed to the chassis shop.

Kanmer

Here is the link to VB&P's alignment specs. Its what a lot of people use as a guideline.

http://www.vbandp.com/instructions/h...ruct/align.htm

HTH
Bob

V8 Juice

Bob,
Any good site for C6 specs?
Enjoy Barber!!
Art

trackboss

Is it just me or do others find it odd that VBP suggests so little camber in the front, actually less than the rear, for track cars? Same with the castor, why suggest less for track than street? I've asked before without an answer, but does anyone know the kingpin angle of the c5 spindles?

-V

ghoffman

We use the following settings for our C6Z with Hoosiers and coil overs, with poly bushings. This is important: poly bushings reduce the need for static camber and toe and athough it is hard to say exactly how much less, but about .7 degrees on the front and at least .5 on the rear less than the rubber. We run about 1.5-1.9 negative camber with 0 to 1/16 toe out on the front, with negative 0.9 to 1.4 camber and 1/8 to 1/4 toe in on the rear. This will reduce the tire life and make the car very nervous on the street, so be careful with these settings in the wet. If you want a little less agressive, more street sutiable settings, go 0.9 negative on all 4 corners, with zero toe on the front and 1/16 toe in on the rear.