Stuck Clutch Pedal Redux
#1
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Stuck Clutch Pedal Redux
Back in June I posted that I had become a victim of the "stuck clutch pedal syndrome" after having the clutch master/slave cylinders replaced as a preventive measure.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=1744492
From the responses it appeared that the only solutions were to replace the slave cylinder (again) or frequent replacement of the fluid (and hope). After a Jul/Aug layoff I have gone to the track 2 times in the past 2 & 1/2 weeks. I have performed the multiple "drain/refill reservoir-pump pedal" procedure to replace the clutch fluid before each trackday.
9/28 @ Buttonwillow - 1st session, 2nd hot lap: Clutch pedal started to stick again, primarily during a 3rd-2nd down shift coming into the "off ramp" corner. I came off track and did the "drain-refill-pump" procedure consuming a bottle of Motul 600. I ran the car 3 more sessions that day and had no further clutch problems.
Yesterday @ WSIR - 1st session, 1st hot lap: clutch pedal started to stick when accomplishing 4th-3rd downshift coming into T3. Came off track and did the "drain-refill-pump" procedure again consuming a bottle of Motul 600. (this is now 4 bottles in 2 wks). Over the next 3 sessions the pedal would stick over 50% of the time when downshifting. I tried varying the downshift (i.e. clutch in early, clutch in late, no heel-toe at all) and it didn't seem to matter. The only thing that seemed to work consistently was to keep my speed below 100mph prior to entering the braking zone for T3.
I'm thoroughly disgusted with the whole situation. I'm now consuming (wasting) more brake fluid for the clutch than I am for the brakes. There doesn't seem to be any rhyme or reason as to when the pedal sticks. Buttonwillow is a tech track that requires 10+ upshifts/downshifts per lap. After replacing the fluid at the track the clutch worked OK. WSIR is a high speed track with only 1 downshift and 1 upshift per lap. Replacing the fluid there didn't correct the problam. Ambient, engine and coolant temps were all higher at BW than at WSIR. TBH, by the end of the day yesterday I was ready to sell the
car and buy a Viper.
The only recourse I can think of now is to spend the $$$ and have the slave cylinder replaced AGAIN. If that doesn't work I think I'll be looking at other marques
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=1744492
From the responses it appeared that the only solutions were to replace the slave cylinder (again) or frequent replacement of the fluid (and hope). After a Jul/Aug layoff I have gone to the track 2 times in the past 2 & 1/2 weeks. I have performed the multiple "drain/refill reservoir-pump pedal" procedure to replace the clutch fluid before each trackday.
9/28 @ Buttonwillow - 1st session, 2nd hot lap: Clutch pedal started to stick again, primarily during a 3rd-2nd down shift coming into the "off ramp" corner. I came off track and did the "drain-refill-pump" procedure consuming a bottle of Motul 600. I ran the car 3 more sessions that day and had no further clutch problems.
Yesterday @ WSIR - 1st session, 1st hot lap: clutch pedal started to stick when accomplishing 4th-3rd downshift coming into T3. Came off track and did the "drain-refill-pump" procedure again consuming a bottle of Motul 600. (this is now 4 bottles in 2 wks). Over the next 3 sessions the pedal would stick over 50% of the time when downshifting. I tried varying the downshift (i.e. clutch in early, clutch in late, no heel-toe at all) and it didn't seem to matter. The only thing that seemed to work consistently was to keep my speed below 100mph prior to entering the braking zone for T3.
I'm thoroughly disgusted with the whole situation. I'm now consuming (wasting) more brake fluid for the clutch than I am for the brakes. There doesn't seem to be any rhyme or reason as to when the pedal sticks. Buttonwillow is a tech track that requires 10+ upshifts/downshifts per lap. After replacing the fluid at the track the clutch worked OK. WSIR is a high speed track with only 1 downshift and 1 upshift per lap. Replacing the fluid there didn't correct the problam. Ambient, engine and coolant temps were all higher at BW than at WSIR. TBH, by the end of the day yesterday I was ready to sell the
car and buy a Viper.
The only recourse I can think of now is to spend the $$$ and have the slave cylinder replaced AGAIN. If that doesn't work I think I'll be looking at other marques
#2
Melting Slicks
What kind of clutch are you using ?????
Sorry about all your woes....Nothing worse than investing money ant time into a track day and having "issues" like this.
Sorry about all your woes....Nothing worse than investing money ant time into a track day and having "issues" like this.
#3
Le Mans Master
I had the same problem and Raftracer replaced my stock clutch with a Spec 3.
Hopefully, I'll not have that problem again.
Hopefully, I'll not have that problem again.
#4
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Clutch is a Luk pro gold, supposedly a direct replacement for the OEM (IIRC, isn't Luk the OEM supplier?). I replaced the original clutch and master/slave cylinders at the end of last year, even though I never had a problem with them.
#5
Melting Slicks
Funny with stock clutch assy's there have been multiple reoccurances of the dreaded sticking clutch pedal......My '03 Z06 did it in the first year before 1400 miles....I had gone through this with the '02 Z06 that I ran of someone elses the year before ..on several occassions. Once I replaced with aftermarket clutch assy (without diaphram self adjusters) I have no longer seen this happen. My advice to you Joe is this....replace clutch hydraulic actuator and clutch pressure plate and I bet you no longer have these problems. Continue to use very high quality fluid in your hydraulics, I use SRF myself.
FWIW, I use SPEC 2+ or SPEC 3 clutch assy's and have never had any issues with the sticking clutch pedal since replacement. SPEC makes some really nice lightweight , stock driving assy's. They have tolerated my rage every time I am in the car....
FWIW, I use SPEC 2+ or SPEC 3 clutch assy's and have never had any issues with the sticking clutch pedal since replacement. SPEC makes some really nice lightweight , stock driving assy's. They have tolerated my rage every time I am in the car....
Last edited by RAFTRACER; 10-11-2007 at 05:05 PM.
#7
Burning Brakes
Joe -- Have you drilled the oriface out (Yikes, can I say that in public?)
Like most, I'm running a SPEC 3 carbon, and aside from the break-in-chattering have had great luck with it. As much as I'd hate to say "replace the clutch", that may be a worthwhile investment in time
Like most, I'm running a SPEC 3 carbon, and aside from the break-in-chattering have had great luck with it. As much as I'd hate to say "replace the clutch", that may be a worthwhile investment in time
#8
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Thanks for the responses, I'll try Ryan's recommendations first.
Danny/Eric, what kind of pedal pressure do the SPEC clutches require? My left leg muscles have atrophied quite a bit since I had my '70 LT-1 35 yrs ago
Danny/Eric, what kind of pedal pressure do the SPEC clutches require? My left leg muscles have atrophied quite a bit since I had my '70 LT-1 35 yrs ago
#10
Melting Slicks
The SPEC 2+, and 3's have slightly more pedal pressure than stock, but nothing uncomfortable.
Hope it all works out, but if you are replacing that clutch hydraulic actuator, spend the money at the same time to replace the clutch assy....Too much labor $$$ to second guess.
#12
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
I knew I liked you........old LT-1 cars rock !!!! I still have my '72 LT-1 car (with '70 scca BSP spec motor ). Could never get rid of the car....way too cool
The SPEC 2+, and 3's have slightly more pedal pressure than stock, but nothing uncomfortable.
Hope it all works out, but if you are replacing that clutch hydraulic actuator, spend the money at the same time to replace the clutch assy....Too much labor $$$ to second guess.
The SPEC 2+, and 3's have slightly more pedal pressure than stock, but nothing uncomfortable.
Hope it all works out, but if you are replacing that clutch hydraulic actuator, spend the money at the same time to replace the clutch assy....Too much labor $$$ to second guess.
If I have to go with a new clutch, I may have some questions on which stage to get, etc. Thanks for the responses
#13
I am currently trying to decide between the Spec stage 2+ and the centerforce dual friction. Both seem to be good setups. I just keep hearing bad things about spec. I am on the fence.