astock165

My car is now dedicated ax/TT car on a trailer and I'd like to improve the brake ducting I have. I was thinking of removing the fog lights and/or the front directionals and replacing them with intake ducts.

Results or pics from those who have done it would be greatly appreciated. As well as insight into how the front nose comes off.

TIA.

EddyCurr

Here is a link to more photos of CF member Nuvolari's car.

Edit: driving light ducts don't feed cooling to brakes

BrianCunningham

Tom,
There's a large chunk of energy absorbing foam behind the plastic


Congrats on having a dedicated car.

Why not get a splitter for the front with built in air ducts?

http://www.tccracing.com/images/race...c/PICT0145.JPG
Get the FSM (Factory Service Manual) for your car before you start modifying.

astock165

I will, thanks for the tip.

Uh ... money, clearance on/off the trailer and other clearance issues, money, class rules, money, T3 & T10 @ NHIS, money ... I'm not trying to be a dink but that has to be some serious coin.

eogel

I use both the front light position, the side light position in addition to the headlight opening, as shown in the attached pictures. The car is raced in SCCA (TCC or ITE), and NASA.
Ed

astock165

Thanks a ton for posting those pics because I hoped someone who had done this would chime in. How did you deal with the clamshell hood? I thought of using the headlights but thought that the hoses would either have to "quick disconnect" from the ducts so the hood could open or that there would have to be excess hose length to allow the hood to raise.

Pics of the inside of that setup? Pretty please? Or at least some discussion on the topic?

astock165

From the images above it would appear that all the air that's gathered is just blown into the front wheel well, is that right or am I missing the ducting hose somewhere? I suppose that method with a C6Z style canule (that I already made) wouldn't be a bad way to go.

eogel

“How did you deal with the clamshell hood?” You are correct in thinking of "quick disconnect" or excess hose length. But too much hose destroys the airflow you need. Even with "quick disconnect" you would need extra hose to allow raising the hood to get to it, with negative impact to air flow.
It took a while to figure out the best approach on this. Will have to take and post the pictures you want, but will do. Until then, I will try to describe it. The dual NACA ducts are mounted in/on a piece of plexiglass a little larger than the headlight opening. The plexiglass has a hole cut in it to fit the NACA ducts into and then fastened to the plexiglass. The plexiglass is attached to a frame I made by cutting and bending aluminum strips. These strips were also bent to utilize existing screws/bolts. The frame is attached to existing screws/bolts. Don’t recall having to drill any holes in the car. When the hood is open, the NACA duct and assembly is rigidly fastened to the body of the car, independent of hood movement. When the hood is closed, it seals tightly enough. Also installed rubber gasket glued around the inside of the headlight opening, but hood movement tends to cause it to come loose. Hoses take the air directly to inside the brake rotor and around the caliper.
I do not have brake spindle ducts. Seriously considered them, but they will cause heat retention when parked in impound after a race unless you add powered fans.
Will make the pictures tomorrow and post when I can. Feel free to ask any other questions.
Ed

DREGSZ

If you want to do this "Right" the way to go is to open the forward ends of the frame rails and run ducting from the frame rail straight to the center of the rotor.
This is the cleanest brake ducting method I have ever seen.

astock165

I think I understand what your doing and it makes sense. Thanks for the explanation.

EddyCurr

Looks like I made a mistake :o the ducts in the d-lights don't seem to send air to the brakes in a meaningful way

eogel

Here are the pictures you requested. A few notes: 1) Used 2 ½ “ hose. It provides much better clearance so the tires do no rub holes in the hose and impact air flow; 2) NACA duct outlet is 3”, so there is a reducer to 2 ½”; 3) Two of the hoses are short and feed air to the wheel well area and two feed directly to the rotor. Both hoses from the NACA duct feed the rotor.
This shows the intake and how it is mounted relative to the open hood.

This shows the ducts going to the rotor.


Ed

astock165

Thanks very much for posting those pics. That's a very nice system.

Thanks to all for the great input.