SebringSixSpeed

Ok, I don't usually post here in the Roadracing section because I've never roadraced my Vette. But here's the thing... I've found an 87 coupe that runs but is in rough shape. It's an automatic (strike one) someone's changed it over to carberater (strike two) and nothing in the dash seems to work (strike three?). However it does run and sounds great, doesnt smoke, etc. The bumpers have been changed to the 91+ style. I believe I can get this car for less than $2000. So here is my question for the forum roadracers. What would it take to make an entry level track car out of this heap? Like I said I've never raced a car so I am a complete newb and what I'm thinking is gut out the interior, put in some gauges, roll cage and 5 point harness, but I'm sure there is more to it than that. I live within a few hours of several great tracks (VIR, CMP, RA, Lowes) and I'd love to have a dedicated car to take and not feel bad about abusing it. Please chime in with any advice (like 'Run Away!') or comments on starting out. Thanks.

Brett Richmond

Why can I never find these deals on corvettes, other car yes but not vettes It shouldn't take much other than maybe putting in a 5 speed depending on the racing class you want to race in.

94ZR1#444

PASS. Look at this car that's not too far from you:

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...ighlight=track

CHJ In Virginia

I agree with 94 Zr1. It would cost you 5-7K minimum to get to a trackable situation with that car. Suspension work, shocks, brakes, cooling, seat, harnesses, etc. More if a trans swap to a manual is involved. You would be better off purchasing an already done car or one nearly there. Watch the for sale and racing sections for bargains. There will be more cars coming up for sale now that the season is almost over.

parkerracing

The good, If you are mechanicly inclined, you will have a good working knowlege of your car and only be in it for the cost of parts (valuing your time as "fun").

The bad, often these projects get sidetracked and finished by someone else and you STILL wouldn't have raced your car.

Very complete and sorted C4's can be had for 15k (one of the best bargains in racing) Try http://www.tccracing.com//main.htm only one car FS now but keep looking, theres bound to be more. /:\

mrc24x

I agree w/ the others. You should be able to find something w/ a manual for 5-7k and be waay ahead of the game.

Auto + Carb =

opel

No one knows your finances better than you, if you can afford $5000+ up front for a manual car with most of the parts (like the dash) still working, do it, it will be cheaper in the long run. But if you can't pay out up front that car could be a starting point. Replace the non working Atari dash with some analogs and go do some track days.

If you think your going to like it sit down with pen and paper and some one that knows how much things will cost and figure out a plan to make it an "entry level track car". If you decide it's not for you sale it for what you can.
Dave

Red Guts

There are plenty of good C4s for sale for less than it would take to fix that one. Especially this time of year. Want a manual? Buy a manual.

sothpaw2

First, how good are you as a mechanic and how much time do you have to be fixing things?

Being an x-C4 guy, let me share with you an observation: Having gone to the National Corvette Museum event (2 days, Corvette only) and a few dates at Summit Point on Fridays, can you guess how many non-ZR1's I saw signed up to drive? ZERO.

That's right, ZERO. I was looking. This also goes for C1-C3. I gather there are actually not too many mechanics out there who like to do HPDE's on the side occasionally--they would be the only demographic to track a C1-C4. This what I gather anyway from the notable absence; I didn't see many older cars of any type at Summit.

This fits with my track experience with the C4 when it was older (13 years old). I drove it moderately hard (shifted at 5000 when my heads/cam motor redlined at 6300) at Pocano and after the second day, the following issues cropped up: 1) blew a radiator hose 2) Knock sensor code--old wires fried by heat 3) Drastically reduced fuel economy--probably blew the stock injectors (heads cam too much even with 5000 rpm shifts) 4) New Rear pads totally consumed (a lot in 2 days) 5) GM performance Timing gear catastrophically wore sending metal shards through the motor after next track day; resulting in unscheduled rebuild; expensive cleaning needed at minimum

Those 5 things were a lot for 2 days worth of moderate tracking. You can argue that 3) and 5) were caused by poor parts in the heads/cam motor upgrade, but this 1987 isn't stock anyway so you don't have stock reliability. Unless you like to wrench it just doesn't make sense. It certainly makes no sense to pay a mechanic to do it so don't even go there with this 1987.

Even you go the C4 route, like the others said, a 90's car with better brakes, 17" wheels and tires, and manual transmission is a much more cost effective place to start. Stay with a stock engine; otherwise you have to hope that
whoever put it together knew what they were doing and had the road course in mind.

Slalom4me

Perhaps not what you are looking for, but very worthy of consideration.

Jeffvette picked up this car when it was offered here, minus an engine.
Then he installed a built-up LSx.

FS 1991 LS1 Race car

Two videos of how it sounds. Right-click and 'Save As' to local disk
for best results.
The thread detailing the LSx swap. Another LS1 swap thread (pics)

Incidently, ignore the ride height. This is a minor matter that can
soon be addressed. The LSx engine is considerably lighter than
the L98/LTx series. Coil-over shocks provide rapid and adjustable relief.

.

c4cruiser

I have an 87 that I use for autodross and occasional track days and while the car is a lot of fun, I have figured out that it would cost a ton to make it into a dedicated track car.

First off, the pre-88 cars need a major brake upgrade. The stock 12" rotors and single piston calipers are not really up to the job of long high-speed tracks where hard braking is needed. Wheels may be an issue as you will have to go with 17" or more diameter and still find a wheel with the proper offset for the early cars.

The springs will be fine as the early cars had higher spring rates that the later C4's A Z51-equipped car would be a good choice.

You could have the auto built to withstand the rigors of road racing, but they just are not as flexible as an manual tranny. In the early cars, the 4+3 is not suited for road racing as the OD unit will not handle the constant in and out at high speeds. With my 87 (mild cam, porting and polishing, and balanced), it's all done at 125-128 in 4th/no OD. A 6-speed car will be the best selection.

Look for a C4 with the J55 13" brakes, a 6-speed and Z51 for a starting package. An 1989 would be my top choice with those options.

c4cruiser

Or you can go the other way and buy a really turn-key race car with real Corvette racing histor behind it:
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=1815513

This is in the C4 For Sale section, it's a 89 Corvette Challenge car #44. Only 50K

Jeffvette

Thanks for the plug. I'm still torn about selling it. I've got some friends who would like to see me run it for a full season up here.


The big question for SebringSixSpeed is what do you want the car t odo and be for? If you are looking for a beater to toss around at the track, a C4 is a nice candidate, but step up to at least a 89 with the 6 speed. Automatics are horrible for road racing, as you have limited control over the shifting. And if you are going to shift an auto....you should have gotten a manual trans to start with.

The only other problem with a C4 that has been addresses is the motor. The stock L98 is durable, but has no power. The LT1 has power, but is not durable. Once you start modifying everything changes. I opted for the LS1 motor as it makes power, it is reliable, and if something does break, I have most of the parts to fix it on hand at the shop.

The other consideration is safety. If you are thinking about building a full cage, BUY A CAR WITH ONE DONE ALREADY. I quickly found out what a proper cage costs. I found a nice car as a roller with all the other prep work done.

Aardwolf

I am happy tracking mine, it didn't cost much and it's a lot of fun. I am not trying to win money or set track records. You could get the car running and do some track events, then upgrade the car as you gain more driving skill.

sothpaw2

What about the LT1 did you find unreliable? Just curious. Posted my experience above.

Jeffvette

Rods and bearings. LT1 had some oil starvation issues.

sothpaw2

Yea my bearings did show wear even after those few HPDE's, but I never did the 1 qt over thing until the last day.

STEVEN13

So far so good...over 100,000 miles and have been tracking my 1992 (LT1) since 2001 with no issues. I do have a DRM Rad/Oil cooler and keep the revs reasonable.

Should I run it with 1 extra quart of oil?

Sorry to hijack!

Steve

0Vector Vette

I know of 3 SCCA TCC track cars that can be bought for $15 to $20K. Pm me if you are interested.
Robert Finlayson

72tccracer

My C4 is race ready turn key TCC championship winning car. Just painted interior, getting ready to paint exterior. Under $15,000. (You pick the color).
cmac75@att.net
Chuck MacTrinder