Centric rotors for C6 Z51
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St. Jude Donor '08-'09
Centric rotors for C6 Z51
I warped my rotors. Blah. Looking for inexpensive replacements, drilled rotors not required. I see that cheap NAPA are popular here and there's talk of Centric. I'd go with the Centric if I could find them for '07 C6 w/Z51 brakes.
Anyone know where I can get these or know if they even make them?
Anyone know where I can get these or know if they even make them?
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St. Jude Donor '07
I warped my rotors. Blah. Looking for inexpensive replacements, drilled rotors not required. I see that cheap NAPA are popular here and there's talk of Centric. I'd go with the Centric if I could find them for '07 C6 w/Z51 brakes.
Anyone know where I can get these or know if they even make them?
Anyone know where I can get these or know if they even make them?
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St. Jude Donor '08-'09
OK, good point. No, I don't know for sure. During casual street driving they feel fine, but after any kind of spirited activity once they heat up they feel rough, like I'm driving over a cobble stone road. Once they cool down, they're fine.
What do you think?
What do you think?
#5
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I warped my rotors. Blah. Looking for inexpensive replacements, drilled rotors not required. I see that cheap NAPA are popular here and there's talk of Centric. I'd go with the Centric if I could find them for '07 C6 w/Z51 brakes.
Anyone know where I can get these or know if they even make them?
Anyone know where I can get these or know if they even make them?
Len,
Centric parts forwarded your request to us. As an owner of a 2007 C6 Z51, I know exactly the issue you're dealing with. The OEM rotors are cross drilled, which is not ideal for track use. And GM was too cheap to build right side rotors, so the passenger rotors have curved internal vanes that are facing the wrong way and they have worse cooling than if GM had made the rotors straight-vaned. See: http://www.zeckhausen.com/how_to_pro...all_rotors.htm for more on this. By the way, GM did this on the C6 Z06 too.
In the future, we may be able to supply you with Centric rotors that are true directional (left & right parts) and are plain or slotted. We've asked Centric if they could build these for us. To the best of my knowledge, no decision has been made by Centric on this and, even if they go forward, it could be as long as a year or more away. For now, our option from Centric is drilled rotors that are built to the same dimensional specifications as the OEM parts. These are in stock and you can order them on-line here: http://store.zeckhausen.com/catalog/...02_103_104_559.
As soon as I get some new wheels for my car (See: http://www.forgeline.com/wheels/ss3p.jpg), I'm installing a StopTech 6-piston big brake kit, so I won't have to be dealing with this issue much longer on my own car. As a brake specialist, I'm somewhat offended by the idea of having a Corvette with a special performance package, yet my passenger side rotors are backwards! :-)
If you have any questions, don't hesitate to call or email.
Sincerely,
David Zeckhausen
President, Zeckhausen Racing
(800)222-8893
www.zeckhausen.com
#6
Drifting
The area with the pad deposit gets heated differently than the area without. I had that way back with my rotors and stock pads. One of my sessions I forgot to roll to a stop without brakes applied-end result-pad deposits. They felt okay when cool, but once at normal operating temps, the brakes pulsed.
If you catch it early you may be able to remove the pad deposit. Some will tell you it can be done by sanding and cleaning, but that didn't work for me. I put on a set of abraisive race pads and bedded them and it removed the pad deposits.
To avoid pad deposits in the future, just roll to a stop in the paddock without applying the brakes. And be sure to use the cool down lap for waht it is meant to be-A COOL DOWN LAP
Tom
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St. Jude Donor '08-'09
Pad deposits.
The area with the pad deposit gets heated differently than the area without. I had that way back with my rotors and stock pads. One of my sessions I forgot to roll to a stop without brakes applied-end result-pad deposits. They felt okay when cool, but once at normal operating temps, the brakes pulsed.
If you catch it early you may be able to remove the pad deposit. Some will tell you it can be done by sanding and cleaning, but that didn't work for me. I put on a set of abraisive race pads and bedded them and it removed the pad deposits.
To avoid pad deposits in the future, just roll to a stop in the paddock without applying the brakes. And be sure to use the cool down lap for waht it is meant to be-A COOL DOWN LAP
Tom
The area with the pad deposit gets heated differently than the area without. I had that way back with my rotors and stock pads. One of my sessions I forgot to roll to a stop without brakes applied-end result-pad deposits. They felt okay when cool, but once at normal operating temps, the brakes pulsed.
If you catch it early you may be able to remove the pad deposit. Some will tell you it can be done by sanding and cleaning, but that didn't work for me. I put on a set of abraisive race pads and bedded them and it removed the pad deposits.
To avoid pad deposits in the future, just roll to a stop in the paddock without applying the brakes. And be sure to use the cool down lap for waht it is meant to be-A COOL DOWN LAP
Tom
I googled "brake pad deposits" and that sounds like what I have. I've been thinking about going to different pads so maybe your approach to bedding an abraisive pad is the answer. I've been thinking about switching between an autocross pad and a ceramic street pad. Maybe now's the time.
Thanks.
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St. Jude Donor '08-'09