steve J06

still trying to get this down. I can't seem to do it just yet so looking for input.
info: stock C6 6spd, shoe size 8, street practicing. when i use the whole ball of my foot on the brake i can't really reach the throttle and tend to lift off of the brake while reaching for the gas. If i use only the part of the ball under my big toe (ie. less than 1/2 width) i can reach over and blip just fine. I'd feel more comfortable having most of the ball of my foot on the pedal.
What lateral pedal spacing are folks using with what size feet? or does it matter? Do I maybe need to add an extender to the throttle tread so that it's wider and closer to the brake pedal? I did a search and read several old post and even found a video of the same. In the vid it looks like the driver was using the same portion of the ball as i've been succesful with but in the C6 it doesn't feel really solid on the pedal.

steve

Z Fast

Steve,

Everone has their preferred way to heel/toe. Find what works best for you. But I installed the Elite pedal in my C6Z. I bought the wider of the 2 gas pedals and I like it. My racing shoes were too narrow to work with the stock pedals. But pedals alone won't do the trick-practice-practice-practice.

Here's a link;
http://www.eliteengineeringusa.com/C6_Pedals.html

Quality product and a forum vendor

Tom

Red5

This is probably of no help to you. I use my right foot and it is wide enough to where I can have one foot on both the throttle and the gas. I split it right down the middle.

But hey, that's just how I roll.

yakisoba

Sit in your car in the garage and figure out a foot position that works for you. It'll be some variation of placing your toes on the brake and your heel on the gas, most likely, with size eight feet. Not real easy to do, and you may want a wider pedal to help. Then, make sure that the pedal height is correct. In other words, make sure your brakes are set up right, and the pedal travel is good. Then practice. Most every downshift when the car is warm enough to blip it. Good luck!

The Spark

I installed an Elite Engineering heel-n-toe gas pedal on my track car and it works very good. I try to heel-toe on my other Vette w/o the Elite pedal and I have a hard time like you describe.

I'm still working on the technique on the track. As with anything, I'm getting better with practice.

urslooow

I got the ultimate pedals gas pedal---goes right over stock w/ 2 screws. I learned at Sprint Mt w/o pedal extender and it was difficult.

The order of operations as you approach corner is
1. threshold braking foot is on upper Right of brake pedal
2. clutch in soon after you begin braking
3. Blip 3500-4000 and let clutch out as soon as the engine revs peak, then turn in.

Road racers jump in and add your angle, this is what Spring Mt teaches

WNeal

totally, my racing shoes just were not wide enough. Put in the same pedal and will now be practicing with the right shoes.
It made a huge difference immediately with my gym shoes. More foot on the brake = more confidence when coming to the end of a high speed straight.

I practice every time I drive the car on the street. I think it is one of those things you never actually master, you just keep getting better

mountainbiker2

I used plywood.

steve J06

thanks for the help. looks like a larger pedal is in order. I'll probably opt for something more on the home-built end of the spectrum although the elite pedal looks

TRACKMAN2

i went down to the lockal aout parts giant an got one of those tunner pedal kits riped the cheesy bracket of the back of the gass pedal and screwed it right to the face of the pedal.... 10 bucks



a word of caution i have had experiences in the past when the brake pedal got soft and the raised gas pedal was easy to hit while trying to brake.. mostly in the c4 though


was also thinking of making the clutch peddal smaller and further to the left.. and making a wide brake pedal that gos over to the left as far as it can so i can learn to left foot brake.. i dont have a chance with the stock setup in iether the c4 or zo6

my spelling seems to be getting worse!!!

AUTO_X_AL

I've had the same thing happen in our c4. Bottom line is that you should never give up a solid brake to match rev a shift. If you are unable to match the shift just give up the corner get through and then downshift. Always better to play it a little safe if you don't think you can hit it just right. The other side of that is the possible compression spin. If you can't get the match don't just hope you hit it and dump the clutch. You'll be taken back by how much locking the rear tires upsets EVERYTHING.

Be careful, have fun, and practice all that you can at lower speeds.

Good luck!

Al

fmrfast

a word of caution i have had experiences in the past when the brake pedal got soft and the raised gas pedal was easy to hit while trying to brake.. mostly in the c4 though


, for this reason I only put the brake pedal cover on, bolted it right over the stock rubber brake pedal cover & through the metal brake pedal frame so it is secure. The thickness of the aluminum pedal cover on top of the stock rubber cover raised the height of the brake pedal giving me just enough extra height needed when the brake pedal fades lower during a race. (I really hate when the brake pedal drops lower then the accelerator when battling for position) It's nurled for good grip & I shifted it slightly closer to the gas pedal. Drilled the holes & bolted it down with countersunk bolts, that is so no bolt heads stick up. That works for me. Mine are OMP I think

JimEli

i suppose you use bamboo for your mountain bike handle bars too.
tie wraps never break, especially after stepping on them. jammed throttle anyone?

Uncle Sam

Number 2 doesn't seem correct. Stability and engine braking would be compromised if "soon" is the operative word.

Z06_505

I wish one of our electrical geniues out there would take advantage of the "throttle by wire" in the newer vettes. A second throttle button mounted to the shifter and wired in parallel would make coordinating the blip, IMO, almost second nature and much safer. No chance of foot slipping off the brake pedal. If anyone with an electrical background (I'm an ME) would like to help develop this with me, please PM me.

Hey Rafteracer, let's do this. I'm confident it will work if the electrical requirements of two throttle wires can be achieved....or are you afraid of the competition it could bring

Sam

VetteDrmr

IMO there's 2 parts to H&T:

1. The technique between splitting right foot duties for braking and blipping
2. When to do #1.

With all due respect to ursloow and Spring Mt., I've never heard anyone recommend early clutch engagement, because the engine speed slows down to idle, then you have to really stab the gas to get the rpms back up.

What I do is get my braking done, then when I'm coming off the brake I downshift. The rpm rev split is lower, making it easier to match the revs. Here's a video where my H&T was working pretty well.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7QowaUEaL_A

HTH, and have a good one,
Mike

Z Fast

Mike,

The reason behind heel/toe is to complete the downshift(s) during braking to save valuable time, and not upset the car with engine drag. If it is completed during braking, no time is lost downshifting.

Here is part of the heel/toe procedure write up from Fast Turn;
For racing, the time spent transitioning from braking to accelerating must be absolutely minimized. You're racing! You don't want to be wasting a bunch of time coasting while you're switching between pedals (even if it is only 1/2 of a second). To maximize the speed and smoothness through a corner, it becomes necessary to do some cockpit acrobatics and operate the steering wheel, shifter, clutch, brake, and accelerator all at the same time.

On the race track, as you approach a corner, your right foot comes off the gas pedal and presses the brake with the ball of the foot. Before the braking is done, you need to shift gears so when the braking is done you can immediately be back on the gas. When the braking is almost done, your left foot pushes the clutch pedal in, and your right hand downshifts. However, while you've been slowing down, the engine speed has dropped. If you let the clutch out now, the car will jerk severely as the engine works like a huge brake. If you're at the edge of traction limits (which you should be), you'll lose control of the car. To prevent this, something needs to rev the engine back up to the right speed before the clutch is released. The right foot is closest, so it is elected to tap the gas pedal. Even though the right foot is busy braking, you swing your right heel over the gas pedal and give it a short push (a "blip" as it is called) to rev the engine while the left foot also lets out the clutch (the ball of the right foot is still on the brake). The amount of blip, and the clutch release timing need to be perfected so there is a perfectly smooth transition when the clutch engages the engine. Meanwhile, the heel is rotated back off the gas, the ball of the right foot has still been braking, and has been easing off as the car approaches the turn-in point. The downshift should be completed before the braking is complete, and before the turn-in. As the engine and transmission are engaged, the braking reduced, and the turn-in begun as the foot makes a smooth transition back to the gas pedal. At first only enough gas is applied to sustain the initial corner speed, and then you gradually accelerate out of the corner.


Here is a link complete heel/toe write up:
http://www.turnfast.com/tech_driving..._heeltoe.shtml

There are some diagrams on heel/toe foot position. Some may use this traditional heel/toe, and some may cover both pedals with the foot straight. Foot position depends on driver preference. I have used both, but typically prefer my foot straight.

Tom

Too Tall Bob

Fortunately, my foot is big enough to roll it over and cover both pedals at once without having to mess with the pedals. (My foot is almost big enough to cover all THREE pedals at the same time!!)

But here is Boris Said doing H/T where he actually rotates his whole heel over while keeping the top of his foot on the brake and is actually doing "Heel/Toe":

TRACKMAN2

the only way to get this right is to PRACTICE ,,PRACTICE,, PRACTICE,,
although you can do it on the street the timing to do it on the track is completely different and i think easier. dont get frustrated just keep trying to perfect you method .. amongst all the racket from the engine and all the dancing on the pedals a passenger should feel a smooth gerkless decelleration... the driver is always bias..

Bill Dearborn

It sounds like you need to add an extension to the upper part of the gas pedal. The elite engineering pedal shown in another post is for people who rotate their heel around to blip the gas. Your description sounds like you are trying to do what I do which is to have the left side of the foot on the brake while using the right side of the foot to blip the gas. This is much easier than twisting your leg to get the heel over to the gas pedal but with your small shoe size you may need an extension so the gap between the pedals is smaller. I wear a size 11 wide and the distance between the pedals is fine for me. I am not sure if the company is still in business but a couple of years ago there was a product for C5s that extended the top of the gas pedal. If you want to make one yourself I don't think you need be concerned about the size of the gap between the pedals as long as they don't touch each other.

After you get the pedals set for your foot size then practice, practice and practice. I find that practicing on the street helps keep me in condition and I heel toe brake at almost every stop no matter the speed.

Bill