Got her back from shop after loosing the drive pulley...
12-05-2007, 10:19 PM
#1
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Got her back from shop after loosing the drive pulley...
The dealership has no idea why the belt drive pulley came off 
but put it back on with new belts and bolt. Is this common, or an extreme extended rpm issue?
This is a stock engine, 73K, tracking but not excessive. Twice this year. What has the forums experience been? Do I or should I pin the pulley?
Jack
but put it back on with new belts and bolt. Is this common, or an extreme extended rpm issue? This is a stock engine, 73K, tracking but not excessive. Twice this year. What has the forums experience been? Do I or should I pin the pulley?Jack
12-06-2007, 09:37 AM
#3
Le Mans Master
The dampener is a press fit, so once it's wobbled off it'll be very difficult to have it stay on, regardless of the new bolt.
Don't know what happened in your case, but I have had one friend directly experience this problem. Root cause was when the pulley was R&R'd the first time the old bolt was used, which didn't clamp down tight enough. Then it wobbled, and a new bolt was used, but because the press fitment had been compromised it continued to happen. Once the damper was replaced with new hardware he hasn't had any problems.
HTH, and have a good one,
Mike
Don't know what happened in your case, but I have had one friend directly experience this problem. Root cause was when the pulley was R&R'd the first time the old bolt was used, which didn't clamp down tight enough. Then it wobbled, and a new bolt was used, but because the press fitment had been compromised it continued to happen. Once the damper was replaced with new hardware he hasn't had any problems.
HTH, and have a good one,
Mike
12-06-2007, 12:23 PM
#4
Former Vendor
Crap, I misread the thread last night. Worked all day, home depot, sanding, painted, that put me at about midnight when I read the post.
VetteDrmr said it all. Besides we use the ARP bolt and lots of red locktite.
Pinning the crank is a good idea also, but you have to do everything all over again.
Randy
VetteDrmr said it all. Besides we use the ARP bolt and lots of red locktite.
Pinning the crank is a good idea also, but you have to do everything all over again.
Randy
Last edited by Randy@DRM; 12-06-2007 at 12:25 PM.
12-06-2007, 03:07 PM
#5
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It's an interference fit between the pulley and crank snout, meaning it uses pressure to keep the uplley from rotating on the snout. Over time the damper wears out and wobbles and can work it's way loose and un-thread the crank bolt. Even brand new LSX motors can have some minor crank pulley wobble.
Becaue of the way it's done the bolt must be stretched into place with a huge torque value over 200 ft/lbs. There is a good ho-to on www.ls1howto.com in their C5 heads/cam swap how-to. You seat the pulley on w/ the old bolt or a pulley installer tool , then you install the new bolt to like 35 ft/lbs then do a 140 degree turn after that... don't quote me on that, just look at the how-to.
I had to use the end of my jack handle to do this when doing my cam swap. I also used some loc-tite on the bolt and pinned the pulley. I used an aftermarket ATI superdamper that is allready keyed for a pin or keyed crank.
If you pin the pulley technically you don't need the crazy torque procedure because you're now using the pin to hold the pulley in place and prevent it from rotating on the snout vs. the interference fit, but I still followed the oem proedure just because I'm ****.
HTH,
Brian
Becaue of the way it's done the bolt must be stretched into place with a huge torque value over 200 ft/lbs. There is a good ho-to on www.ls1howto.com in their C5 heads/cam swap how-to. You seat the pulley on w/ the old bolt or a pulley installer tool , then you install the new bolt to like 35 ft/lbs then do a 140 degree turn after that... don't quote me on that, just look at the how-to.
I had to use the end of my jack handle to do this when doing my cam swap. I also used some loc-tite on the bolt and pinned the pulley. I used an aftermarket ATI superdamper that is allready keyed for a pin or keyed crank.
If you pin the pulley technically you don't need the crazy torque procedure because you're now using the pin to hold the pulley in place and prevent it from rotating on the snout vs. the interference fit, but I still followed the oem proedure just because I'm ****.
HTH,
Brian
