Header install help...
12-14-2007, 04:16 PM
#1
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Header install help...
So, I've encountered some problems while installing these headers. The first was that the line to my accusump was inconveniently placed where the header wanted to be. Thats an easy fix though. I've ordered some new fittings and will deal with that later.
The PITA is this little sensor plug. I believe its for oil temp. The adapter block for the oil cooler nonsense puts the plug in a non-stock location, thus the annoyance with the headers.
What I need from you folks are ideas (I know, what am I asking you for
).
First off, is this the oil temp sensor? if not wtf is it.
Secondly, can i just destroy the plastic part of the plug, just leaving the male end and a couple wires? wrap all that stuff in some heat protector and be done with it.
The offending plug is below, to the right of where the oil filter should be.
The PITA is this little sensor plug. I believe its for oil temp. The adapter block for the oil cooler nonsense puts the plug in a non-stock location, thus the annoyance with the headers.
What I need from you folks are ideas (I know, what am I asking you for
). First off, is this the oil temp sensor? if not wtf is it.
Secondly, can i just destroy the plastic part of the plug, just leaving the male end and a couple wires? wrap all that stuff in some heat protector and be done with it.
The offending plug is below, to the right of where the oil filter should be.
Last edited by wallyman424; 12-14-2007 at 04:20 PM.
12-14-2007, 04:23 PM
#2
Former Vendor
Wally,
What block adapter is it? What headers? I have played with them all at one point. If you have to you can move the sensor, and run a AN line to it. Yes it is a Oil temp sensor.
Randy
What block adapter is it? What headers? I have played with them all at one point. If you have to you can move the sensor, and run a AN line to it. Yes it is a Oil temp sensor.
Randy
12-14-2007, 04:28 PM
#3
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
i'm intrigued by how i can move the temp sensor though.
12-14-2007, 05:50 PM
#4
Former Vendor
Ok, A FCM2246 is a -6 to 12mmX1.5 fitting. This will get you out of the block adapter. Then you can build a AN line to a remote location. This is were it gets tricky. Either find a -6 male to 12mmX1.5 fitting which will be kinda hard because the sensor is pretty long. You could either make one or have someone else make one. A tube of AL and a tap is all you need. If you build a female to female fitting then you will need one more FCM2246.
Or find some trick high dollar pretty adapter to go into your oil cooler line.
Randy
PS I Have a hard time explaining it, call me if you need more info.
Or find some trick high dollar pretty adapter to go into your oil cooler line.
Randy
PS I Have a hard time explaining it, call me if you need more info.
12-14-2007, 06:14 PM
#5
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Ok, A FCM2246 is a -6 to 12mmX1.5 fitting. This will get you out of the block adapter. Then you can build a AN line to a remote location. This is were it gets tricky. Either find a -6 male to 12mmX1.5 fitting which will be kinda hard because the sensor is pretty long. You could either make one or have someone else make one. A tube of AL and a tap is all you need. If you build a female to female fitting then you will need one more FCM2246.
Or find some trick high dollar pretty adapter to go into your oil cooler line.
Randy
PS I Have a hard time explaining it, call me if you need more info.
Or find some trick high dollar pretty adapter to go into your oil cooler line.
Randy
PS I Have a hard time explaining it, call me if you need more info.
I'm going to try and mess with the actual plug itself though. It would seem that if i could get rid of the quick disconnect capability, and just directly connect the wires to the sensor it would work fine.
12-14-2007, 06:55 PM
#6
Le Mans Master
Whoaaa, there Cowboy!
Headers? Do I see additional HP in your future?
8.7 : 1 ! Remember, that's the magic formula!
We're watching!
Headers? Do I see additional HP in your future?
8.7 : 1 ! Remember, that's the magic formula!
We're watching!
12-14-2007, 07:01 PM
#7
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
12-14-2007, 07:56 PM
#8
Melting Slicks
Member Since: Dec 2003
Location: Charlotte NC
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12-15-2007, 08:41 PM
#9
Melting Slicks
Remove the oil temp sensor and tap the hole with a 1/4 npt tap and JB Weld an internal allen head 1/4 npt plug. Wire tie the connector out of the way. If you want the oil temp sensor functioning, relocate it in the oil cooler return hose and extend the wires to reach it. Get one of these fittings in whatever dash size your oil cooler hoses are
(probably -10 or -12). This picture is of a -8 fitting.
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku
Cut the end of this fitting that would be the leg of the "T" and weld a piece of aluminum to it, tap it for the oil temp sender and install it in the return hose. The tap is a 11mm x (I forget either 1.0 or 1.5).
Mark
(probably -10 or -12). This picture is of a -8 fitting.
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku
Cut the end of this fitting that would be the leg of the "T" and weld a piece of aluminum to it, tap it for the oil temp sender and install it in the return hose. The tap is a 11mm x (I forget either 1.0 or 1.5).
Mark
01-03-2008, 07:13 PM
#10
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
thanks for all the help guys. I just fired her up. It scared me a little bit and I might need some earplugs, but good lord does it sound good.
and my oil temp sensor is intact!
and my oil temp sensor is intact!
01-03-2008, 10:22 PM
#11
Race Director
I wish I'd have seen this sooner. Many of the headers come really close to the temp sensor. btw, DRM's block adapter works great, and clears my LG headers very well.
Wallyman, you running an LS6???? You should have plenty of power for ST2 unless you're running a 90,000mile LS1 like me.
Wallyman, you running an LS6???? You should have plenty of power for ST2 unless you're running a 90,000mile LS1 like me.
01-03-2008, 11:29 PM
#12
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
I wish I'd have seen this sooner. Many of the headers come really close to the temp sensor. btw, DRM's block adapter works great, and clears my LG headers very well.
Wallyman, you running an LS6???? You should have plenty of power for ST2 unless you're running a 90,000mile LS1 like me.
Wallyman, you running an LS6???? You should have plenty of power for ST2 unless you're running a 90,000mile LS1 like me.
I figure with these headers, I can get a nice safe 93 octane tune running about 370-375 rwhp. Thatd put me right at 8.7
01-04-2008, 10:19 AM
#13
Burning Brakes
Member Since: Dec 2007
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01-06-2008, 01:39 AM
#15
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
01-06-2008, 01:12 PM
#16
Le Mans Master
01-06-2008, 01:30 PM
#17
Team Owner
Member Since: Sep 2003
Location: Raleigh / Rolesville NC
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Remove the oil temp sensor and tap the hole with a 1/4 npt tap and JB Weld an internal allen head 1/4 npt plug. Wire tie the connector out of the way. If you want the oil temp sensor functioning, relocate it in the oil cooler return hose and extend the wires to reach it. Get one of these fittings in whatever dash size your oil cooler hoses are
(probably -10 or -12). This picture is of a -8 fitting.
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku
Cut the end of this fitting that would be the leg of the "T" and weld a piece of aluminum to it, tap it for the oil temp sender and install it in the return hose. The tap is a 11mm x (I forget either 1.0 or 1.5).
Mark
(probably -10 or -12). This picture is of a -8 fitting.
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku
Cut the end of this fitting that would be the leg of the "T" and weld a piece of aluminum to it, tap it for the oil temp sender and install it in the return hose. The tap is a 11mm x (I forget either 1.0 or 1.5).
Mark
