sothpaw2

I've searched the archives and read up, here's what I think I want to change my C5Z alignment towards. I'm going to lower it 0.5" on the stock bolts while I'm at it.

Purpose is to minimize tire wear at the track while not hunting too bad on the street--car sees A LOT of street miles. Tires are stock F1SC tires (well for track I do sometimes substitute Nitto RII on the rear but only 275-40-17's not as wide).

Specs:

Camber F: -1.25, Rear: -0.68 (stock)
Toe: Front: 0 Rear: 1/16" toe in (total)
Caster: 6 deg or better (max)
Steering & thrust =0

So what do you think--will it hunt much worse than stock in the ruts with these?

Will I loose rear wheel traction at the drags? Does the camber or toe setting increase drag force giving me a slower 1/4 time?

Thanks for your input! Happy Holidays!

sothpaw2

ttt

sothpaw2

ttt

Gray Ghost GS

I'm running a little more camber for my street/track alignment. My camber F: -1.50, Rear: -1.00 with Caster: 6 deg or better (max). I'll need to check my alignment sheet to confirm toe and steering/thrust - but it looks close.

Poppy's Vette

I just had my C6 aligned with similar focus. Here were my specs:

Before:

LF RF LR RR
0 .50 .50 0 Camber
8.25+ 8.00+ Caster
1/8 in 0 Toe

After:

LF RF LR RR
1.75- 1.75- 0.85- 0.85- Camber
7.25+ 7.75+ Caster
0 1/8 in Toe


All I can say is that the car felt like a totally different car on the track. I haven't driven many street miles with this alignement but I don't go back to the track until mid January so we'll see.

sothpaw2

Thanks--Yeah I had seen your posts before using "search" and you are in agreement with others. How many street miles do you do?

Does it wonder bad in ruts? I have some bad ruts inside the Baltimore City limits on 295 on the way to work. Car pulls bad now with stock settings. Baltimore hasn't re-paved that since the 50's. It was a crumbling shame back in the early 80's when I was growing up and started to notice.

Other Thing is, I am not sure how the camber affects rolling friction at the drags? I don't want to hurt my rear wheel traction or make a wild increase in rolling friction.

Does anybody have a feel--rolling friction effect of camber? I wouldn't think it's bad. I thought toe was a bigger deal, that's why I backed off on it.

Mikelly

I never had my C5 at the drags, but the guy who bought it from me did, I think and I don't think he re-aligned it...

I was running:
Front Caster - MAXED OUT (think it was right at 7 degrees posititve)
Front Camber - -1.2
Front Toe - 1/32 out

Rear Camber - -1.0
Rear Toe - 1/16th in

I got 24K miles out of a set of Kumho Ecsta MXs commuting 120 miles Round trip on them and doing a track day or two when it was to cold to run the Hoosiers.

Car stuck like it was on rails. It was a 99C5 Targa with Z06 Shocks and sway bars. I kept the C5 springs and found that it was a very good balance for street and track.

Mike

sothpaw2

Wear doesn't sound bad--my front F1SC's are worn out on inside from about 20k mi, but 14k was the first owner, don't know what he did.

Did the 99' pull bad in ruts with that alignment? Was it pleasant to drive on the street? My Z is responsive and I'll say pleasant to drive with the stock alignment, as long as you aren't on ruts. The pull you get there is not fun.

Mikelly

Mine tracked straight a true in all driving conditions... It didn't "hunt" or pull in grooved pavement and I had zero issues with any darty-ness...

Mike

sothpaw2

Thanks!

Aardwolf

I've read that more then .5 total in the rear will hurt traction for the drags. Maybe ask in the drag section what people use, to get an idea what is best for that venue.

Mikelly

I think I read somewhere that it was .75 degrees...

Of course, looking at my avitar you can tell that the -2.5 camber on the rear doesn't hurt my glorified VW in launching at the drags, but my motor is in the wrong place!!!

Mike