Tourmgr1

Sorry should be in the racing-autox section. Perhaps a mod can move it.
Happy new year everyone.

I recently bought a complete diff-trans cooler set up from a fellow forum member complete with all the lines, brackets, screws etc. I'm test fitting everything up this weekend to see how it all lines up and if all the parts are there. I don't have directions.
Everything seems OK but ...Here's the question: I assume I have to get behind the frame to put nuts on the bolts that hold my pumps to the frame see pic below ....

What's the best way to access the rear of the pump support bolts.


Thanks Brian.

BLOWNZO6

Self Tapping Screws...

Tourmgr1

I was hoping you'd say that ! Is this what everyone does ?
I did not want to dig around with the trim/carpets/remove harness bar etc. only to find it's impossible to access
Thanks.

BLOWNZO6

Yes, all of the alky kits and boost a pumps I installed are done with self tapping screws, same with boost controller solenoids, etc. etc.

J.R.

Contact Randy at DRM.

He has great photos and schematic of his Diff/Trans cooler setup.

Tourmgr1

Thanks JR. Randy was my first thought but I started this Saturday afternoon .......he's always been very helpful. I just figured someone who had installed this would have the answer over the long weekend.
Thanks.

Tact

I moved this thread as you wished but hopefully you have found your answer.

John Shiels

I used self tapper with hew head

Woods

I have the DRM trans and diff coolers in the rear brake ducts. I used self tapping screws.

MySR71

Randy suggested to me that I weld bolts to the frame and use those as studs, ie, weld the bolt head to the frame with the threads facing outward.

I sent you an e-mail a schematic of lines from Randy.

Tourmgr1

Hi Dan,
Thanks for the pics and drawing.
I had no idea you were heading in the same direction as me. Help is closer than I thought.

BTW. Here's a link I found to a video of the install. This talks about the wiring etc. I have no idea if this is the way to go ...........as I can barely change a light bulb without direction.
http://dragcorvett.blogspot.com/2007...on-cooler.html

Do we need relays ?

MySR71

I have the trans and diff pumps from Randy sitting right here. I've been thinking about the wiring and how to attach the pumps myself. I don't really have access to a welder. It sounds like many go with self taping screws. That would make it a lot easier.

PS I see you got your lift. Congrats.

Tourmgr1

Sent you an email with phone #'s ...give me a call.

0Randy@DRM

The easiest way of attaching the pumps is the self tapping screaws.
The 2nd easiest way is to weld on 1/4 bolts to the frame.
The 3rd easiest way is to install a Riv-nut and bolt them on.

If you have any other questions please let me know!

Randy

Woods

Perhaps the coolest part of this set up is when you come off the track and shut the car off. Having the pumps hooked to a battery source and leave them running for a few minutes. People walk by and wonder what the heck is that noise. I tell them its my DRM Flux capacitors.

MySR71

I guess I didn't think so. There are automotive switches that can take 15 amps. Now I am wondering..... Randy, what do you recommend?

Woods

I tied both pumps to a single switch through a relay with an inline fuse and its been working for over a year.

MySR71

I guess I don't understand the advantage of using a relay if a switch of the required current capacity is available, like those from Pegasus Auto Racing. If both pumps are tied together, I could see where using a 15 Amp switch might not be the best idea for the high current initial start up. If independent, why not? The only thing I can think of us EMI problems with the radio or the heavier gauge wiring required to the switch(s).

0Randy@DRM

Very well said!!!

Randy

0Randy@DRM

Dave if you are out there, please give me a call.

He posted this to Youtube a couple weeks ago.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HjIUwvEp0V4

Randy