TopSpeedNeed

I have a 04 Z06 Z16, I do allot of High speed events, I need to get a front air splitter, any ideas of where, I want to keep the car somewhat collectable, so hopefully I can find something that will bolt on and off without scratching up the car to bad...

2000BSME

me too, but I don't care a bit about collectibility, just results and function.

AU N EGL

Mine is a ACP overlay splitter. I can stand( 200 lbs) on mine and it will not budge

Kerry Hitt ( ACP owner) makes a splitter that will attach under the front nose piece.


http://www.advancedcompositeproducts...ice%20list.htm

Fascia-Ft splitter-overlays stock C5/A0004-FG 393.00
Fascia-Front (one piece) C5/A0001-CF 1,891.00
Fascia-Front (one piece) C5/A0001-FG 940.00
Fascia-Front for DetachSpoiler C5/A0002-CF** 1,782.00
Fascia-Front for DetachSpoiler C5/A0002-FG* 820.00

Spoiler-Front-Detachable C5/A0003-FG* 124.00
Spoiler-Front-Detachable C5/A0003-CF** 325.00
Spoiler-Front 4" Extended C5/A0003-FG 4"* 124.00
Spoiler-Front 2" Extended C5/A0003-CF 2" 253.00

I have also seen ACI spiltters. They do look nice, but may not allow enough air flow to cool the radiator and have seen two come off at speed too. I think the guys did not bolt them on but just used double sided 3M body trim tape


If you add a 2" front splitter a 1" rear 45* spoiler would be needed to counterbalance the car.

a 4" front spiltter needs a 72" wing to counter balance

Bink

Tom - why did you choose the overlay??

AU N EGL

the bolt on that goes underneath does not have a large enough opening for air to reach the radiator. Street use would have been fine, but not on the track.

The WC front is cut out to 5" high by 20" wide too allow more air to enter.


With the over lay, the opening was 3" x 20" ( Sig pic at bottom) ( ACI openings are 2" x 18' IIRC). I used it that way for a year . Saw oil temps in the 270-289 and coolent temps in the 230s too HOT as not enough air was getting in.

then I cut the opening to 5" x 20"( Pic below) oil temps dont get above 245 and coolent temps are around 200 now. If or when I put an extractor hood on the coolant temps will go down and will have much better front end down force.



I also have an undertray from the splitter to the center the cross frame under the front axle center line. Sorry no pics
My car is a front, not a bottom breather. alos have 1/4" square wire mesch too keep the track turds and dead miata's out

JVetthead

I am building a C6R style front end for my C5 and should be finished by the end of Feb. If/when I decide to go in production I will post pics...

John Shiels

The pieces with the splitter under the nose has a big opening but requires a new nose fascia, top splitter and CF under-tray to work properly. Opening is plenty big for the street or track.


Not sure what Tom means by this
.

AU N EGL

John

Kerry has a straight bolt on splitter. It will bolt on to the stock nose. The radiator opening may not be big enough or let enough air though with the stock nose too keep the radiators cool.

So what you did, new nose and splitter, or what I did by cutting the opening to 5" allows more air though.

Git Er Dun

Sorry to dig this thread up from the dead but I have several questions that are mostly answered in this thread. I think that AU N EGL might be able to answer them.

I am trying to add a 4" or so front splitter/undertray onto my car. However buying ACP's front fascia for detach spoiler, 4" splitter, and carbon fiber undertray (they no longer make a fiberglass undertray) it is $2300...and that doesn't include shipping and paint...so really I would have $3,000-$3500 into basically a 4" front piece and flat bottom under my engine.

I really like the overlay that AU N EGL has. I think that I could get the overlay and then cut a piece of aluminum into however big of a splitter I want. Then have another peice cut to fit as a undertray/skid plate basically. I could then have hinges on the front of the undertray/rear of the splitter and on the front of the splitter have threaded rod to adjust the rake of the splitter up or down. Then I could undo a couple of bolts and the hinges and take the splitter right off. The undertray might actually be able to protect the underside of the engine/oil pan on the street as we transit from track to track during the Cannonball Run: One Lap of America...kind of like a rally car. I also like the idea of having an aluminum splitter/undertray because it would be VERY easy to cut multiples as back ups and have them on the trailer incase something happens to the first set. I also like the idea of aluminum because if I get a bit wide and run over a tall turn rumble strip or something it would just scrape the aluminum instead of cracking/shattering fiberglass/carbon fiber.

So does anyone else think I could just buy ACP's:
"Fascia-Ft splitter-overlays stock C5/A0004-FG 433.00"

And then cut the air gap in it wider like AU N EGL did and fab up my own splitter/undertray out of aluminum? Seems like a strong, adjustable, easily recreatable, and cheap way of doing it. Thoughts?

John Shiels

ACP under-tray is not something you will fab up easy at all. If you saw it you would know hwy it works good. I'll see if I can dig up a picture. My other computer has been down for a while so the octures are on there or I may have them on yahoo stored.

Git Er Dun

Yeah I know it will take time to get right but I figured you could bolt the aluminum in the same place that AU N EGL did (center of the cross frame under the front axle center line). I know it would take work to do but figured it could be done just like Rally guys make their brush guards under the engine. Probably not the BEST setup iin the end since obviously it's home built, non wind tested, not the lightest...but I think it would still work well enough, be strong, easily removable, and best of all cheap to re-create in the event that I mess it up...which is a good possibility

John Shiels

ACP unit sweeps up which you will never do with flat plate.

Git Er Dun

Yeah but I think a flat plate would still work well at creating a low pressure area and channeling air under the engine bay. Maybe I am mistaken.

Can ACP's undertray be taken off along with the splitter as we transit from track to track or can just the splitter be removed. Is there any way that their undertray could be harmed driving a SUPER low car on the street. The car is going to be VERY low...LG drop spindles and Moton racing coil overs that only have about a 1" travel from ride hight to fully compressed...so when we corner weight it/set ride height...it's going to be low.

Thanks for the replies. Keep the ideas and replies coming...Anything helps.

ryan0

Git Er Dun

^^Is that thier overlay splitter (2"?) with their undertray? Now I am no aerodynamist but I just don't think the undertray has to be that complicated/expensive ($1,000) to still be pretty functional. Also I'm worried about running over a piece of something on the highway and punch a hole through the carbon fiber undertray on the way to the next track or crack it pulling into the burger king lot because he bottomed out the low front...then we are out $1,000 and have to A)tape up the undertray or B) carry a spare on the trailer and bolt on the new spare in the little time we have before the next track event...and then we still are out $1000. An Aluminum one seems like a smart idea since it could take the abuse and heck I could have 3 more on the trailer behind the car so if one gets messed up...well there's another.

davidfarmer

the shape DOES help..... Although simply converting to a front breather and closing off the bottom is a huge step already. Katech did a wind tunnel test recently on their C6Z setup, and while the splitter reduced LIFT, the only way to actually get downforce is to run a venturi'd undertray as well.

AU N EGL

I made my own undertray out of a piece of Lexon. and screwed it into place. Sorry no pics.

davidfarmer

btw, a flat 1/4" sheet of foam insulation can easily be cut and molded to mimic nearly any shape, and a single layer of fiberglass over each side makes it extremely stiff. It isn't honeycombed carbon-fiber, but it will do the job since it isn't structural.

Git Er Dun

Yeah I had seen that you used Lexan in post threads...just figured aluminum could take a good hit and just get scrapped up a bit.

Yeah that's a good idea also on how to have it venturi'd.

Would the venturi'd really make a sizeable difference though? It's still going to be a top breather and route the air under the car. It probably isn't the most effective and wouldn't have wind tunnel testing but I figure it's still going to work pretty well. Just like the vented hoods. I don't have quite enough money to pull the trigger on one quite yet. Are they better...yes. Would I be better off putting the money twords brakes at this poinnt...debatable. It's just one of those things I'm thinking where it's not the best but it will still provide improvement.

VGLNTE1

wish they had pics for all of this