Vinyl Decal Numbers
#1
Instructor
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Location: Troutville Virginia USA1
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Vinyl Decal Numbers
I'm thinking about some Vinyl Numbers on the doors for my next HPDE. The main question I have is how hard are they to remove. Any tips are appreciated on installation and removal.
#2
Safety Car
I use reusable vinyl numbers from www.solotime.com on the windows. I just get the glass clean and stick 'em on... you have to be careful not to stretch them when you peel them off. I usually just put one on the upper right of the windshield and one each side on the hatch glass close to the door pillars.
Not sure about putting the numbers on the doors. The adhesive doesn't seem much worse than painters tape...
Not sure about putting the numbers on the doors. The adhesive doesn't seem much worse than painters tape...
#3
Drifting
I use contact/shelf paper and make the numbers myself. Been doing this for quite a while and haven't had any issues. Just make sure that the paint is waxed. If there's a little residue left after removing the contact paper, I use 3M Wax/Adhesive Remover.
#4
Drifting
Oh, I also leave the backing paper on a little bit of one corner of the trailing edge of each digit, to ease the start of the "peeling off" process.
#5
Cartoon Character
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Location: Can't be more than 114... Arizona
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I used cling vinyl numbers and signs on an Open Road Racing Camaro and they did not come off at 194mph... You can get a sign place to cut them from white cling (assuming your car is not white!) and just wet the car and use a squegee to get the air out. They are reuseable forever...
I'm not cheap ,I am just thrifty...
I'm not cheap ,I am just thrifty...
#6
Team Owner
I use static cling numbers on my 87. I had a local sign shop do them for about $45 for a pair. The numbers are 8" high and class letters are 6" high.
This shop gave me a choice of colors and fonts for that price. The base material is clear so the body color shows thru. I chose black numbers as the car is gold and that provides a good contrast.
The important thing about a static cling set is that the surfaces have to be clean and smooth. I spray the door area with a light mist of water and then lay the sheet on the water. I use a piece of cardboard as a squeegee to push the water out from under the material.
The static cling sets come on a paper backer and it's important to place them back on the backer sheet when yoiu remove the set. You then roll it up and it's ready for the next time.
Removeable adhesive number sets work too, but that adhesive usually doesn't last as long compared to static cling stuff.
This shop gave me a choice of colors and fonts for that price. The base material is clear so the body color shows thru. I chose black numbers as the car is gold and that provides a good contrast.
The important thing about a static cling set is that the surfaces have to be clean and smooth. I spray the door area with a light mist of water and then lay the sheet on the water. I use a piece of cardboard as a squeegee to push the water out from under the material.
The static cling sets come on a paper backer and it's important to place them back on the backer sheet when yoiu remove the set. You then roll it up and it's ready for the next time.
Removeable adhesive number sets work too, but that adhesive usually doesn't last as long compared to static cling stuff.
#7
Drifting
Static cling here too. I used the same set for about 15 years. They were starting to look gray from the Hawk brake dust so I made new ones last year. I bought the material from Solotime.
#8
I just bought my second set of vinyl numbers from iZoom Graphics. The first set lasted two season. I did not remove them after every event, but could have. You have a wide choice of styles to pick from.
http://www.izoomgraphics.com/index.p...9c36267c7ddaf9
http://www.izoomgraphics.com/index.p...9c36267c7ddaf9
#9
"AlohaC5" Senior Member
I 2nd the recommendation to place the cling numbers on window glass vs. body paint. Some are difficult to remove from the paint. Another option is Wipe Off Window Markers
#10
I just bought my second set of vinyl numbers from iZoom Graphics. The first set lasted two season. I did not remove them after every event, but could have. You have a wide choice of styles to pick from.
http://www.izoomgraphics.com/index.p...9c36267c7ddaf9
http://www.izoomgraphics.com/index.p...9c36267c7ddaf9
#11
Melting Slicks
I get mine made at Fast Signs. They use a non-permanent vinyl and are easy to remove.
I get them to do mine angled (front to back as you look at the car) with shadowing. They also do my sponsors' decals when I open road race. Haven't had any problem peeling them off after months of being on the car.
I get them to do mine angled (front to back as you look at the car) with shadowing. They also do my sponsors' decals when I open road race. Haven't had any problem peeling them off after months of being on the car.
#12
Melting Slicks
I used cling vinyl numbers and signs on an Open Road Racing Camaro and they did not come off at 194mph... You can get a sign place to cut them from white cling (assuming your car is not white!) and just wet the car and use a squegee to get the air out. They are reuseable forever...
I'm not cheap ,I am just thrifty...
I'm not cheap ,I am just thrifty...
BUT be careful.....not cling vinyl is the same......my first two sets were great....then I wanted to add a set to the rear of the car and was in a hurry, got them from speedy sign, they were about half the thickness and like to curl.
Get the good ones......KEEP-EM CLEAN and they will last a very long time. If the high speed is starting to peal the edges, use a small piece of clear scotch tape on the two leading corners.
#16
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Location: Lancaster Pennsylvania
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You can use vinyl (adhesive) numbers without problem on your doors or any other painted surface. I have. Just clean the surface and apply a good wax prior to sticky them on and the numbers willl peel off with ease without hurting the paint. A warm hair dryer can help too by heating the vinyl while peeling the decal off the surface.
#18
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http://www.racesignspecialists.com/v...icles_kits.htm
- Mark
#20
I have the Solotime.com ones. Keep in mind when they get dirty and dont stick so well, you can wash them off with warm water and work the dirty out with your fingers - then let dry overnight and place on the backing again. Doing this has significantly extended the useful life here in the dusty desert (1.5 years with the same set).
Last edited by TommyBoy72; 04-29-2008 at 04:06 PM.