BBQ

I know this has been covered before, but I couldn't find the thread. I need alignment specs for HPDE and street driving. Thanks

craig-o

You'll probably get many different answers, as there's a lot of personal choice and feel involved. Here's a link to Vette Brakes and Products recomended alignment specs for various types of driving:

http://www.vbandp.com/instructions/h...ruct/align.htm

That should be a good place to start.

Craig

sothpaw2

Not sure what car you have but I researched this with the search function and then had my car lowered and aligned. try -1.5 deg camber in the front and -1.0 deg camber in back. You could play with the toe a little (I believe it is 1/8" toe in for front, 1/6 toe out rear?) but I just left mine stock.

MungoZ06

Don't know if you've got a reg C5 or a Z06. Above link doesn't give Z06 rec's.
I'm running -1.4 front; -.9 rear, neutral toe front, 1/16 toe IN rear. ~ 6.9 caster front.
Here's some info:
http://www.z06vette.com/forums/showt...factory+camber

This is the factory specifications for the ZO6, 01 and up. These are different than regular C5 specifications, so some shops alignment machines may not have the right databases loaded to show this:

Front Individual Toe +0.04 degree +/- 0.10 degree

Front Sum Toe +0.08 degree +/- 0.20 degree

Front Individual Caster +6.9 degree +/- 0.50 degree

Front Cross Caster within +/- 0.25 degree

Front Individual Camber -0.70 degree +/-0.50
degree

Front Cross Camber within +/-0.25 degree

Rear Individual Toe -0.01 degree +/- 0.10 degree

Rear Sum Toe -0.02 degree +/- 0.20 degree

Rear Individual Camber -0.68 degree +/- 0.50 degree

Rear Cross Camber within +/- 0.50 degree

For more aggressive track/street use, increase front individual camber to 1.0 degrees, and rear individual camber to .8 degrees, while reducing front toe to .06 degrees, and rear toe to the minimum (.01 degrees). This is a very drivable setup and increases mechanical grip noticeably. Some auto-crossers will get even more agressive, setting rear camber at 1.1 degrees and front at 1.5 degrees, and toe-out the front at .02 degrees, but this will cause a lot of tire wear on the street, and make the car a little "darty" on regular surface streets, but makes them really grab on tight courses on marginal surfaces

AU N EGL

To make things easy

Aggressive street and some track use

Front:

Camber: -1.0* to -1.5*
Caster: 6* and equal on both sides. Don't go too much more here
Toe: 1/32" OUT to Zero

Rear:
Camber: -0.75 to -1.0*
Toe: 1/32" IN

no ranges, measure in INCHES, not degrees, so it is easer to read.

Cobra4B

^ Tom nailed it. Here's what I ran for the past few years:

Front:
-1.3 to -1.5 front camber
+6 - +7 front caster (nice solid on-center feel)
0 toe... none, toe kills tires

Rear:
-0.8 to -1.0 rear camber
1/32nd per side toe in (1/16 sum toe)

Works great, feels like a new car, still get good tire life on the street.

WNeal

Contact "RaftRacer"

He has mine dailed in

427mustang

I wouldn't post that anymore. The C5 specs appear to have the front and rear reversed and even then, I'm not too sure if they're any good.

95jersey

It all comes down to maximizing tire wear and trying to get the longest life possible out of those expensive tires you have bought. Here is another way to look at it. You first need to ask yourself, how many miles do I put on the car track vs street. This will determine which way you want to go. I found switching back and forth to be too much work on top of the many other things required.

Let's say you put 5000 miles per year on your car. If 1000 of those miles are at the track and 4000 are on the street, you probably want to consider a more tame allignment to make your street tires last longer. If you are like me and it is the opposite, 4000 miles track and 1000 miles street, now you really need to be more concerned to try and make your R compound tires last as long as possible, and that is really done by adding negative camber.

In my case, since I probably drive 1000 or less miles a year on the street, it's a no brainer, even with -2.5 of camber, at 1000 miles per year, I will still get several years out of the street tires as they simply do not see enough mileage to cause premature wear. BUT I would be going through twice or three times as many R compounds driving 3000+ track miles each year with a street allignment. If you are 50/50 it really becomes a tough situation.

Another approach, I would run a track oriented allignment during the summer track season and in the fall change it back to stock. At this point I leave it aggressive all year around since I don't really drive the car on the street anymore.