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Camber Change: Understeer vs. Oversteer

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Old 01-31-2008, 07:02 AM
  #21  
rfn026
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Last time out at Sebring I tried the Kumho recommendation for my C4. I ran -3.0 camber on the front and -3.5 on the rear. The car was incredible. The best part was the tire temps were the same both front and rear. That means the car is neutral - both ends were working equally hard.

The new tires are built for huge negative camber numbers. Try them. You might like them. New week I'm going to try those settings at Homestead.

btw - The car is almost impossible to drive on the street.

Richard Newton

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Old 01-31-2008, 11:59 AM
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Sidney004
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This is great information Richard, I was just about to go out and set my alignment. This is not exclusively for a new construction V710 is it?
Old 02-01-2008, 09:32 AM
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rfn026
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I'm not really sure. The advice I got was for the 710. I really don't know how it applies to other tires. I assume it might be close but I can't say for sure.

Richard Newton
Old 02-03-2008, 02:04 PM
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Silverton
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Gkmccready, what alignments are you now using?
Old 02-03-2008, 02:20 PM
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gkmccready
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Originally Posted by Silverton
Gkmccready, what alignments are you now using?
1/16" toe-out front, -1.5deg or so camber, didn't check caster
1/16" toe-in rear, -1.0deg or so camber

I use the Hardbar camber plate and stud kit, plus their alignment tool. I fight with my SmartCamber gauge on my uneven driveway. The real key was getting the rear toe set correctly. I had been trying to run 0 toe front and rear for a while and the car really needs rear toe-in or it's less than confidence inspiring.

Eventually I'll get the Pfadt bushing kit... seems you can run less static toe and camber with the poly bushings.



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