HPDE: Changing C6 Z51 brakes for C5's - Any need to swap REARS, Too?
#1
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
HPDE: Changing C6 Z51 brakes for C5's - Any need to swap REARS, Too?
I'd love to hear your comments on my initial plans for brakes needed for HPDE's in my Z51 C6 -
I intend to dedicate these front pads & rotors to the track, but I drive the car on the street, and to/from the events as well.
THANKS !
- C5 NAPA rotors (front)
- C5 caliper brackets (front)
- Wilwood H or Carbotech XP10/XP8 pads
- ATE SuperBlue or Type 200 fluid
- C6 Z06 brake ducts
- Motive Brake Bleeder
I intend to dedicate these front pads & rotors to the track, but I drive the car on the street, and to/from the events as well.
THANKS !
Last edited by EvilBoffin; 02-13-2008 at 04:33 PM.
#2
I'd love to hear your comments on my initial plans for brakes needed for HPDE's in my Z51 C6 -
I intend to dedicate these front pads & rotors to the track, but I drive the car on the street, and to/from the events as well.
THANKS !
- C5 NAPA rotors (front)
- C5 caliper brackets (front)
- Wilwood H or Carbotech XP10/XP8 pads
- ATE SuperBlue or Type 200 fluid
- C6 Z06 brake ducts
- Motive Brake Bleeder
I intend to dedicate these front pads & rotors to the track, but I drive the car on the street, and to/from the events as well.
THANKS !
#4
To better answer your question, that would be fine. The rears don't do much braking, and having too little rear bias wont cause stability issues like too much rear bias would.
Keep your cross drilled rotors and either keep your Z51 pads or put C5 Z06 pads back there. Then you can swap in something stronger up front as necessary.
Better answer?
Keep your cross drilled rotors and either keep your Z51 pads or put C5 Z06 pads back there. Then you can swap in something stronger up front as necessary.
Better answer?
#5
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Thanks for the responses, Rob.
Unless someone offers a differing viewpoint here, then you have confirmed what I thought. I can always add the rears later if deemed necessary.
I just wanted to ensure that those expensive, cross-drilled rotors wouldn't still crack back there, or that changing only the fronts wouldn't alter the brake bias/handling feel in some weird way, under such heavy braking conditions.
Unless someone offers a differing viewpoint here, then you have confirmed what I thought. I can always add the rears later if deemed necessary.
I just wanted to ensure that those expensive, cross-drilled rotors wouldn't still crack back there, or that changing only the fronts wouldn't alter the brake bias/handling feel in some weird way, under such heavy braking conditions.
#6
The only risk is if you end up with race pads up front that don't work when cold. Then on the way to the track with cold pads you could have a brake bias to the rear.
That might only be an issue with extreme race pads though.
#9
Safety Car
The other thing I've noticed is that the Wilwood H pads on the front are much more linear during application than the PFC 01. Looking at the pad curves for the PFC you can see the Cf goes up with temperature so during application the PFC stops more and more without you changing pedal pressure! You can get used to it, but after putting H pads on the front I sure like that feeling a lot better.
#10
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
As you can see from my initial list of parts above, I had the Wilwood's in mind already, or the staggered Carbotech set (XP10 front/XP8 rear) to get a bit more rear bias. I just don't want to be replacing rotors constantly from overly-aggressive pads, so I'm not sure which would be better...
Originally Posted by yakisoba
...I'd do the rears too, just to keep everything the same and wear on your stock parts the same.
THANKS guys, for continuing this thread - it's a good discussion.
#11
To be safe, you need to do both or none... By doing the front only you significantly change the brake bias rearward. This is because you are reducing the moment arm (leverage) of the front brakes by 0.5" (1" smaller rotor).
The vette may could use a little more rear bias, but that may be too much, potentially making the rear end skidish under hard braking.
As for pads, you should always run the same or very similar compounds front and rear. They need to have the same friction vs. temp curves.
Kirk
The vette may could use a little more rear bias, but that may be too much, potentially making the rear end skidish under hard braking.
As for pads, you should always run the same or very similar compounds front and rear. They need to have the same friction vs. temp curves.
Kirk
#12
To be safe, you need to do both or none... By doing the front only you significantly change the brake bias rearward. This is because you are reducing the moment arm (leverage) of the front brakes by 0.5" (1" smaller rotor).
The vette may could use a little more rear bias, but that may be too much, potentially making the rear end skidish under hard braking.
As for pads, you should always run the same or very similar compounds front and rear. They need to have the same friction vs. temp curves.
Kirk
The vette may could use a little more rear bias, but that may be too much, potentially making the rear end skidish under hard braking.
As for pads, you should always run the same or very similar compounds front and rear. They need to have the same friction vs. temp curves.
Kirk
#13
Tech Contributor
Member Since: Oct 1999
Location: Charlotte, NC (formerly Endicott, NY)
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To be safe, you need to do both or none... By doing the front only you significantly change the brake bias rearward. This is because you are reducing the moment arm (leverage) of the front brakes by 0.5" (1" smaller rotor).
The vette may could use a little more rear bias, but that may be too much, potentially making the rear end skidish under hard braking.
As for pads, you should always run the same or very similar compounds front and rear. They need to have the same friction vs. temp curves.
Kirk
The vette may could use a little more rear bias, but that may be too much, potentially making the rear end skidish under hard braking.
As for pads, you should always run the same or very similar compounds front and rear. They need to have the same friction vs. temp curves.
Kirk
Bill
#14
You are right, I did temporarily forget. All this new-fangled technology takes all the fun out of modifying a car. If I now remember correctly, it actually looks at the rate of speed difference between the front and rear wheels, not just when the rears lock... I wonder how effective it is???
#15
Drifting
I'd love to hear your comments on my initial plans for brakes needed for HPDE's in my Z51 C6 -
The biggest question is - should I also replace the stock Z51 REAR rotors & brackets, too? Or, just get rear pads that fit the stock (cross-drilled) Z51 rotors that work reasonably well on both track & street?[/COLOR]
THANKS !
The biggest question is - should I also replace the stock Z51 REAR rotors & brackets, too? Or, just get rear pads that fit the stock (cross-drilled) Z51 rotors that work reasonably well on both track & street?[/COLOR]
THANKS !
Folks here don't think much of the Z51 drilled rotors but I will guarantee you they will outlast the C5 rotors 3 to 1 and they only cost 2x.
Additionally, the XP-10's and XP-8's aren't much, if any, better than the PFC Z's.
Save your $$ for an extra event instead.
#16
Safety Car
All of this is subjective so you'll just have to try it and see. I've watched several folks now run C6 Z51 cross-drilled rotors. Haven't seen many folks do it with race pads, though.
#17
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Thanks guys.
Wilwood H's seem like a well-liked pad. Though, this is the first time I've heard a 'bad' review of the XP10/XP8's...
Any suggestions about where to buy the *******?
Wilwood H's seem like a well-liked pad. Though, this is the first time I've heard a 'bad' review of the XP10/XP8's...
Any suggestions about where to buy the *******?
Last edited by EvilBoffin; 02-15-2008 at 11:23 PM.
#19
Drifting
And CrystalRacer got it wrong .... there was no "bad" review about the XP10/XP8 pads. Carbotech makes good pads IMHO. However, the XP10/8’s just are not much, if any, better than the PFC's, which are very good for all around use. If you don't have any rubber that will be the limiting factor.
#20
Exactly, and that is why they are no better than the PFC "Z"'s. You can't have it both ways on being rotor friendly and being aggressive.
And CrystalRacer got it wrong .... there was no "bad" review about the XP10/XP8 pads. Carbotech makes good pads IMHO. However, the XP10/8’s just are not much, if any, better than the PFC's, which are very good for all around use. If you don't have any rubber that will be the limiting factor.
And CrystalRacer got it wrong .... there was no "bad" review about the XP10/XP8 pads. Carbotech makes good pads IMHO. However, the XP10/8’s just are not much, if any, better than the PFC's, which are very good for all around use. If you don't have any rubber that will be the limiting factor.
I had them on my 350z, stopped the car from 60-0 on the RA1 in 107ft. I dont think they aare bad parts. I can tell you they are AGES ahead of the HP+.