Originally Posted by whosurdaddy

I have been fortunate in my 2006. There are no real mechanical issues. That being said, stiffening up the chassis would be a good idea, though the std tunnel plate (from C5 stardom) might not be necessary as I know the OEM unit is a 1/4" alum unit already. I have also noticed a couple of times, while up on jacks, that only 3-jack stands were "in-play". Looking underneath, it appeared that the chassis might be out of alignment and preventing it from sitting flat level on 4 identical jack stands. I do recall that the BMW Z8 had issues with the aluminum frame bending so I'm a bit concerned about this and need to track it down before the season starts.

Also, regarding the brake discussion, I was turning 2.13's at Watkins Glen on stock brakes with high temp fluid and PS2's. So, while I burned through a WHOLE set in less than one track day - I did make note of excellent brake feel. By the way, track record at WG in the ST class of Grand Am/Koni was 2005 in a Mustang at 2.12.48 on slicks.

Originally Posted by John Shiels

I don't think any OEM frame is perfect, slight twist. LGM places them on a plate and straightens before welding a cage in. If you are not on a perfect surface and the jacks are not perfect it will not sit perfect. Mine seems to sit good on the jacks, but it depends where you place them also.

Originally Posted by 95jersey

Bought an 06 from an auction last year with 4500 miles. I let go a VERY prepped 2001 Z06 with all the engine, suspension, brake and cooliing, and safety goodies dumped into it. Past car had 423rwhp, was about 150lbs lighter than stock 01Z, cornerweighted by Pheonix.

I bought the C6Z and within one lap I realized this car would have crushed my last car in every category (acceleration, cornering, braking). I could leave the car bone stock and smash 98% of everything on the track. It is an amazing car all around.

I have had some problems...I already broke 3rd gear and had to have that replaced (under warranty), my dry sump oil lines are leaking (apparently many do), and there have been some computer glitches. Battery dies within 1.5 week unless I keep a tender on it. The cooling temps are not as good as my C5 with the Dewitts upgraded combo radiator and 160F thermostat, but I have never seen the oil get hotter than 260F on a 90+ degree day.

Mine is not a DD, but I do drive it on the street occaisionally, and it's smooth as butter, actually TOO smooth. Although this car is definately faster in corners than the previous generation Z, it feels like a big boat sometimes. It's hard to explain, you are going much faster than you realize, but the car is SOFT and will move around on the suspension a lot. It doesn't cause the car to loose grip, just doesn't feel as connected as the C5Z (in my opinion).

Power is more than adequate, no need to spend money here. I put on a K&N and tune and got 493rwhp. Still scares me every time I get in the car.

Otherwise it's great knowing I have dry sump and don't need to add extra quart or even check the oil level for that matter. You have cooler on everthing that gets hot. The car is very complete and ready to be the fastest or one of the fastest at the track and get you home in luxury and navigation.

Paint is holding up good, but I put clear contact paper all over my car, as I am not taking chances with a $65k car. But since I have done this, I have gotten more scratches/chips from the street than the track.

All you really need in this car is race pads and R compounds and you are hanging with race cars! But the downside is the cost to run. You go through brakes often and rotors are expensive. So, compared to a C5, you have to dig deeper, but then again, you don't have to spend money modding the car.

Do I regret it....sometimes I think about the $65k in cash I laid down, and that my last car was paid for, but then I would have spent the money maintaining my car out of warranty anyway. I often say, this is the car to have when they start going around $40-50k.

The only thing I really wanted to mod after my first year, beleive it or not was the suspension...it's just too soft for my tastes. So I am putting in LG coilovers and T1 bars. It's at Pheonix right now and should be a monster when it gets back

Originally Posted by Z11409

WSIR,SM and Button , oil runs 265-water 235

Originally Posted by Mikelly

The tranny on the 06-07 was an issue and has been replaced with a new tranny all together in the 08s. That, the lighter steering and better valving on the shocks would make the 08 the better buy in general.

I'm awaiting Jim McNemar's 08 to return from LG. Those boys are giving it the "full" monty!

Mike

Originally Posted by Dirty Howie

Very interesting.....

I don't like mushy suspensions. My C5 has Biltsein sport shocks, ZO6 springs, Hotchkis bars and is lowered on cut front bolts. Also has 18x10 and 18x11.5 wheel on Nitto RII rubber.

I just want reliability and performance without MODS (not counting pads and tires)

I really like to hear that 260* oil in 90* weather .... I love the summer for racing. And my last motor would go over 300 as didn many other C5's

Thanks fro the feedback.


DH

Originally Posted by outnumbered

Approximately 36 track days.

Car is holding up very good, except the following,

Brakes. I will be installing Brembos

Water temps 230-240 deg. Oil 260-280 deg.

I will be upgrading the radiator. I use a speed lingerie bra. The water over heated. I had to cut the mesh out.

I use spray bra, shelf paper and the lingerie bra and have had no paint damage.

The windshield take the worst IMO.

Originally Posted by John Shiels

with a larger radiator?

Originally Posted by Dirty Howie

Sorry John ...... didn't catch your question.

I don't want to have to touch ANYTHING under the hood on a new C6Z

My current car has tranny cooler, Dewitts and now Ron Davis radiator with EOC. My oil temps are 260-275 with ambient of 60*


DH

Originally Posted by Dirty Howie

Very interesting.....

I don't like mushy suspensions. My C5 has Biltsein sport shocks, ZO6 springs, Hotchkis bars and is lowered on cut front bolts. Also has 18x10 and 18x11.5 wheel on Nitto RII rubber.

I just want reliability and performance without MODS (not counting pads and tires)

I really like to hear that 260* oil in 90* weather .... I love the summer for racing. And my last motor would go over 300 as didn many other C5's

Thanks fro the feedback.


DH

Originally Posted by 95jersey

I think it's a bushing issue, but not 100% sure. The suspension/sway bars on paper are both stiffer than a C5Z, but it still feels soft and slighty disconnected. It's the only complaint I really have about the car. You would never notice it unless you are running very aggressive tires (like Hoosiers) at a fast pace. I have heard the C6Z bushings are softer than any previously used on the C5's. I wonder if in order to improve street ride, GM softened the bushing while stiffining the suspension? The car rides so nice and smooth that you almost can't beleive you have stiffer than C5Z spring rates on the car. The PDFAT bushings may be a good mod for this car. Once my car comes back from Phoenix with T1 bars and LG coil overs, I will definately be able to say it was the suspension or the bushings. If it still has the "slosh" after coil-overs, then the only thing left would be the bushings to blame. I am hoping the coil-overs take much of this away and make it more tolerable.

Don't think your not going to spend money on this car, because you will. You'll need a new C6 specific harness bar, and the rotors are $125 at best discount. Don't forget tire sensors inside another set of wheels, along with a reset tool, that needs to be recalibrated evertime you change tires! Brake pads, brake pads, brake pads, brake pads (this is how many sets you'll need for the season).

But you do get ALL the coolers (not just oil) and dry sump as well as that awesome 427. The car has cool little trick features, like a rear battery, carbon fenders, and rear suspension with upper control arms like the front. So no more money goes into making power or keeping that power cool, but your daily expenses (rotors, pads, tires) go up! But the good news is that if you are spending money on the Z, it's for more performance, not necessarily making up for something C5's need not to blow up (coolers, accusump...). The big downside for folks wanting to turn one of these into a track car is the aluminum frame, it would never be worthwhile to pay to get a cage installed. I have heard well over $10,000.

The reality is, that even with my past car tricked out, the stock Z crushes it like the "Stig" listening to Italian language lessons on the radio, while turning in world class lap times. The car is effortlessly fast, expensive, and you can watch yourself drive around the Glen on you color screen navigation. Do I have regrets? I probably should have had more patience, and waited till the car dropped to low $50's to pick up some waxer's garage queen.

Originally Posted by xsiveone

I'm still curious about the aluminum frame. Why didn't Corvette Racing use it for the C6.R? Also, why did the C6.R use coil overs while they still put tranverse leaf springs on the production car? I'm not saying that the transverse leaf springs are bad by any means, but if it's so good, why don't they use it on their race car?

I'm still baffled by the padlet thing. I think that was a really poor move by GM.

Did LG start with Z06's for his WC cars? I would think that he'd use a C6 for it because he totally rebuilt the car anyway.

Originally Posted by xsiveone

I'm still curious about the aluminum frame. Why didn't Corvette Racing use it for the C6.R? Also, why did the C6.R use coil overs while they still put tranverse leaf springs on the production car? I'm not saying that the transverse leaf springs are bad by any means, but if it's so good, why don't they use it on their race car?

I'm still baffled by the padlet thing. I think that was a really poor move by GM.

Did LG start with Z06's for his WC cars? I would think that he'd use a C6 for it because he totally rebuilt the car anyway.