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removal of pad deposits on rotors

Old 02-19-2008, 02:29 PM
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Lawdogg
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Default removal of pad deposits on rotors

My brakes started to pulse after a track day last year. I had the stock pads on the car. Stoptech has posted in the past that rotors don't warp, they get pad deposits especially from track use of stock pads. Assuming I have pad deposits causing the pulsing, how can they be removed? Thanks!!!
Old 02-19-2008, 03:23 PM
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0Randy@DRM
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Is this question for your brakes on the ground or the brakes for the wheels on the roof??? Sorry I had to take a quick cheap shot.

You can remove the build up with a 3.5 inch scotch bright pad on a angle grinder. Or pull them off and get them turned on a brake lathe. The NAPA here in Buffalo will turn rotors, about 10-15 bucks a rotor.

Talk to you later, and see you this spring
Randy
Old 02-19-2008, 04:06 PM
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rbl
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Originally Posted by Lawdogg
My brakes started to pulse after a track day last year. I had the stock pads on the car. Stoptech has posted in the past that rotors don't warp, they get pad deposits especially from track use of stock pads. Assuming I have pad deposits causing the pulsing, how can they be removed? Thanks!!!
That would be quite a pad deposit to get a pulsing brake. I'd think the pad is bad or the rotor is warped. Only takes one to feel it. I haven't had much luck with the scotch bright.

I would get them turned if you are going to change pads and material types, especially if you are going to Carbotech.
Old 02-19-2008, 04:27 PM
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Aardwolf
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I use garnet paper (sand paper) between pad changes. You may want to check the runout on the rotor.
Old 02-19-2008, 04:30 PM
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NASAblue
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Turning rotors is a waste, for another $10 you get new rotors and not worry about it (C5). When I had my rotors turned they didn't last one session.

I noticed with the willwood and hawk ht 10 pads that I get pad deposits in a pattern that reflects the underlying cooling vein.

WHere there is no reinforcement or the hollow cooling channel is where it tends to build up, but where the supporting rib is, it's clean.

weird stuff, I dont have my cooling ducts hooked up yet so I dont know if it will change the situation but my guess is it would.

My results were the same with the el cheepo rotors as the more expensive ones w/ upgraded metalurgy....

My theory is that the metal rib provides more surface area and therefore is a heat sink and provides support. The empty space has no heat sink and creates a hot spots. Those spots are where my rotors see pad build up and then creates the vibration.

FYI I never used any other pads on the rotors (new) and everything was properly bedded in.

Last edited by NASAblue; 02-19-2008 at 04:32 PM.
Old 02-19-2008, 05:16 PM
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Bill Dearborn
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When I am using track pads such as PFC 01s or Wilwood H pads and start to sense a thumping I check the rotors as soon as I get back into the pits. I have found several rotors that were on the verge of cracking when checking right after coming off the track. One of the previous hair line cracks usually has started to expand outward causing a bump in the rotor right where the crack is. Have seen this numerous times over the last couple of years. When I come back after the car has cooled that bump has turned into a nice large crack all the way through the rotor.

Bill

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