C5 Alignment & ride height settings, and corner weighting… (Auto-x)
#1
Burning Brakes
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St. Jude Donor '07
C5 Alignment & ride height settings, and corner weighting… (Auto-x)
I have read through a couple hundred posts on alignment and corner weighting, but still can't come to any conclusion.
I run a 99 FRC in ASP. Stock springs, T-1 sway bars, Koni sport shocks. 17 X 11 rims with Kumho V710's on all 4 corners.
I used to do a lot of HPDE, but this will be the first year in Solo2 with the car.
Alignment settings
I have been reading a lot about alignment specs....
Front: -2 camber front
Front: 0 - 1/16 toe out
Rear: -1.5 camber
Rear: 1/16 - 1/8 toe in
Front caster max you can get, but equal each side.
Does that sound about right for alignment?
Ride height
As far as ride height goes I have been unable to find any specs. My car has been lowered a bit, but don't know what settings should be.
Any recommendations would be appreciated.
Corner weighting
Seems like a lot of people disagree on whether it is important or not to add weight to the driver seat. I have heard from a few people that do corner weighting and they say and it matters very little???
I run a 99 FRC in ASP. Stock springs, T-1 sway bars, Koni sport shocks. 17 X 11 rims with Kumho V710's on all 4 corners.
I used to do a lot of HPDE, but this will be the first year in Solo2 with the car.
Alignment settings
I have been reading a lot about alignment specs....
Front: -2 camber front
Front: 0 - 1/16 toe out
Rear: -1.5 camber
Rear: 1/16 - 1/8 toe in
Front caster max you can get, but equal each side.
Does that sound about right for alignment?
Ride height
As far as ride height goes I have been unable to find any specs. My car has been lowered a bit, but don't know what settings should be.
Any recommendations would be appreciated.
Corner weighting
Seems like a lot of people disagree on whether it is important or not to add weight to the driver seat. I have heard from a few people that do corner weighting and they say and it matters very little???
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St. Jude Donor '09
Those specs look like a good starting point to me. As for ride height, probably 1/2 - 3/4" lower than stock iis all you want to do so you don't bottom out your shocks, and so you leave the suspension some room to work. I prefer toe-out in front also - really makes the turn-in crisp.
To me, it only makes sense to put weight in the driver seat if you want to know where the car will be when you're in it! I don't know enough to argue that it truly matters or does not, but it makes logical sense that you'd do it, and every time my car's been corner-weighted it's had lead me in the seat/floorboard. Good luck!
To me, it only makes sense to put weight in the driver seat if you want to know where the car will be when you're in it! I don't know enough to argue that it truly matters or does not, but it makes logical sense that you'd do it, and every time my car's been corner-weighted it's had lead me in the seat/floorboard. Good luck!
#3
Race Director
go NO LOWER than the OEM adjusters will allow....only lower each axle as much as the side with least adjustability allows, or you'll screw up the corner weights even worse than GM did.
Corner balancing is easy, and I think it worth the trouble. Some cars are off 20lbs, some are off 300lbs, so it is hard to predict how yours will come out.
Corner balancing is easy, and I think it worth the trouble. Some cars are off 20lbs, some are off 300lbs, so it is hard to predict how yours will come out.
#4
Safety Car
#5
Burning Brakes
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go NO LOWER than the OEM adjusters will allow....only lower each axle as much as the side with least adjustability allows, or you'll screw up the corner weights even worse than GM did.
Corner balancing is easy, and I think it worth the trouble. Some cars are off 20lbs, some are off 300lbs, so it is hard to predict how yours will come out.
Corner balancing is easy, and I think it worth the trouble. Some cars are off 20lbs, some are off 300lbs, so it is hard to predict how yours will come out.
How say you? For folks with coil overs how low do you suggest going, assuming they aren't changing the uprights to adjust the swing arm angles?
#7
I have read through a couple hundred posts on alignment and corner weighting, but still can't come to any conclusion.
I run a 99 FRC in ASP. Stock springs, T-1 sway bars, Koni sport shocks. 17 X 11 rims with Kumho V710's on all 4 corners.
I used to do a lot of HPDE, but this will be the first year in Solo2 with the car.
Alignment settings
I have been reading a lot about alignment specs....
Front: -2 camber front
Front: 0 - 1/16 toe out
Rear: -1.5 camber
Rear: 1/16 - 1/8 toe in
Front caster max you can get, but equal each side.
Does that sound about right for alignment?
Ride height
As far as ride height goes I have been unable to find any specs. My car has been lowered a bit, but don't know what settings should be.
Any recommendations would be appreciated.
Corner weighting
Seems like a lot of people disagree on whether it is important or not to add weight to the driver seat. I have heard from a few people that do corner weighting and they say and it matters very little???
I run a 99 FRC in ASP. Stock springs, T-1 sway bars, Koni sport shocks. 17 X 11 rims with Kumho V710's on all 4 corners.
I used to do a lot of HPDE, but this will be the first year in Solo2 with the car.
Alignment settings
I have been reading a lot about alignment specs....
Front: -2 camber front
Front: 0 - 1/16 toe out
Rear: -1.5 camber
Rear: 1/16 - 1/8 toe in
Front caster max you can get, but equal each side.
Does that sound about right for alignment?
Ride height
As far as ride height goes I have been unable to find any specs. My car has been lowered a bit, but don't know what settings should be.
Any recommendations would be appreciated.
Corner weighting
Seems like a lot of people disagree on whether it is important or not to add weight to the driver seat. I have heard from a few people that do corner weighting and they say and it matters very little???
#8
Racer
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your ride height
Does anyone know the best way to adjust ride height in my 02 z06 dont know what the stock settings should be . should the car be even all around ? or should there be a rake ? im looking for best handeling . should the drivers side be a eight higher to make up for the drivers weight ? id like do get it back to stock settings or better. i tried adjusting the bolts left to right and pass. side bolt is showing lots more treads than right to make car level this normal . and should there be a rake ? how much ? ill get the car alinged after i get the ride height set thanks for any help
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Burning Brakes
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St. Jude Donor '07
Adjustment in the rear is made by adjusting the length of a bolt. Very easy to do. Adjustment on the front is made by a bolt at the end of the leaf spring. Easy to do as well. Easier if you unload the suspension a bit. With the stock adjustments you might be able to lower it another inch at best.
A simple rule of thumb is to never exceed 2 "finger" width between top of wheel and fender well lip. If the rear is slightly higher it does help plant the front well in corners.
My gap is about 1.5" - 1.75". The rear has a longer bolt for lower adjustment, but the front is the stock spring and bolt. Lower then you need to go on the street.
My best suggestion to you would be to go to a professional alignment shop that also does corner weighting. This will give you the best settings possible. They can lower it and not offset the corner weights.
A simple rule of thumb is to never exceed 2 "finger" width between top of wheel and fender well lip. If the rear is slightly higher it does help plant the front well in corners.
My gap is about 1.5" - 1.75". The rear has a longer bolt for lower adjustment, but the front is the stock spring and bolt. Lower then you need to go on the street.
My best suggestion to you would be to go to a professional alignment shop that also does corner weighting. This will give you the best settings possible. They can lower it and not offset the corner weights.
#10
Racer
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Adjustment in the rear is made by adjusting the length of a bolt. Very easy to do. Adjustment on the front is made by a bolt at the end of the leaf spring. Easy to do as well. Easier if you unload the suspension a bit. With the stock adjustments you might be able to lower it another inch at best.
A simple rule of thumb is to never exceed 2 "finger" width between top of wheel and fender well lip. If the rear is slightly higher it does help plant the front well in corners.
My gap is about 1.5" - 1.75". The rear has a longer bolt for lower adjustment, but the front is the stock spring and bolt. Lower then you need to go on the street.
My best suggestion to you would be to go to a professional alignment shop that also does corner weighting. This will give you the best settings possible. They can lower it and not offset the corner weights.
A simple rule of thumb is to never exceed 2 "finger" width between top of wheel and fender well lip. If the rear is slightly higher it does help plant the front well in corners.
My gap is about 1.5" - 1.75". The rear has a longer bolt for lower adjustment, but the front is the stock spring and bolt. Lower then you need to go on the street.
My best suggestion to you would be to go to a professional alignment shop that also does corner weighting. This will give you the best settings possible. They can lower it and not offset the corner weights.