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Seperating Ball Joints to Remove A-Arms

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Old 02-23-2008, 01:34 PM
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gkmccready
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Default Seperating Ball Joints to Remove A-Arms

Okay. I am definitely lacking a Kent-Moore J42188. What's the magic to doing this? I need to pull them to replace the bushings that have gone for a walk...
Old 02-23-2008, 02:28 PM
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KCHOTBOAT
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I used the kit that Advance loans out. It had about everything in the kit.
Old 02-23-2008, 03:04 PM
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John Shiels
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two big hammers hit the sides taper pops out. Hard to explain.
Old 02-23-2008, 03:16 PM
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Miaugi
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Originally Posted by John Shiels
two big hammers hit the sides taper pops out. Hard to explain.
...I didn't believe it when I was told hitting the side will pop it out...but it worked!
Old 02-23-2008, 03:28 PM
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John Shiels
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Originally Posted by Miaugi
...I didn't believe it when I was told hitting the side will pop it out...but it worked!
my friend and mechanic when I need him one shot pop there off I thought he was when he told me.

I had ordered the tool but never used it after he showed me before the tool came in. They guy is a master at everything. He restored a '58 Cameo Chevy pickup he had since 1961. Took it to GM's show they offered him 100,000 for it. It is really worth about 40-50 on a real market sale. 175+ tool for someone when I croak.

Last edited by John Shiels; 02-23-2008 at 03:32 PM.
Old 02-23-2008, 03:46 PM
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gkmccready
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Well, I bent a cheap 3" gear puller, and the 15/16" pickle fork doesn't fit. Hitting the side, eh? Hm... no love for me there, but I'm not entirely sure what you're refering to...

Last edited by gkmccready; 02-23-2008 at 03:48 PM.
Old 02-23-2008, 04:05 PM
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John Shiels
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hold big lump hammer on one side of aluminum arm then take big ballpeen and rap the other side. Picture it as being squeezed out. Know what I mean?
Old 02-23-2008, 04:16 PM
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You mean a baby sledge behind one of the legs for the A (inside by the shock), then whack the outside of the same leg?
Old 02-23-2008, 04:20 PM
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CF6873
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You should whack the area directly around where the ball joint shafts goes thru. If the shaft is going thru the donut hole, hit the outside of the donut. I keep the nut on by a few threads and sometimes apply a little pressure with a floor jack.
Old 02-23-2008, 07:08 PM
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I see. So place a hammer on the opposite side of the point of the A, then whack it. Effectively trying to briefly oval the hole. I'll give it a shot once the rain lets up...
Old 02-23-2008, 08:04 PM
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After posting in the other thread I remembered that the Pitman arm remover from Autozone fits. The balljoint one is too small but the Pitman works.

I also would suggest taking the entire corner off as a piece, upper, knuckle, and lower, then seperating it.

I had a much easier time this way.
Old 02-23-2008, 08:43 PM
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I bought a ball joint kit from Sears. It has several different size forks. Can't remember exactly which one fits the ball joints on the Z06. But, it wasn't too hard for me to figure out which one fit, ease it between the boot and the spindle and pop it hard with a hammer. That usually popped the a-arm off the spindle fairly easily.
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Old 02-24-2008, 02:11 PM
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BlackRocket
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I like putting two nuts on the threaded shaft with the washer in-place and all it takes is a light tap on the top nut and you're done. This way you don't bang up the aluminum. Once it pops the spring pressure will be against the lower nut. To remove just jack-up the lower A-Arm slightly and take the nuts off then lower slowly.
Old 02-24-2008, 02:39 PM
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Rob Willis
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http://www.jakelatham.com/c5/misc/C5...el_Bearing.doc

Last edited by Rob Willis; 02-24-2008 at 04:30 PM.
Old 02-24-2008, 03:12 PM
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rustyguns
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Originally Posted by BlackRocket
I like putting two nuts on the threaded shaft with the washer in-place and all it takes is a light tap on the top nut and you're done. This way you don't bang up the aluminum. Once it pops the spring pressure will be against the lower nut. To remove just jack-up the lower A-Arm slightly and take the nuts off then lower slowly.
i did this method didn't work at first but then i put PB blaster on it ans 10 minutes later it popped out real easy. but..made it a bit of a pain to put back in it kept spinning with the nut, had to tap it in a bit..alot!
worked though

i am not sure of the pimple popping method...would that stress the aluminum?
Old 02-24-2008, 03:28 PM
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gonzalezfj
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Originally Posted by rustyguns
i did this method didn't work at first but then i put PB blaster on it ans 10 minutes later it popped out real easy. but..made it a bit of a pain to put back in it kept spinning with the nut, had to tap it in a bit..alot!
worked though

i am not sure of the pimple popping method...would that stress the aluminum?
There is a hex socket inside the stud that allows you to hold the stud immobile while you turn the nut. Don't remember the size of the hex, but you can find the right size easily enough by trial and error.

If you don't overtighten the nut it will come apart easily the next time.

Frank Gonzalez.
Old 02-24-2008, 04:06 PM
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Miaugi
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Old 02-24-2008, 06:04 PM
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The lower isn't an issue, it's easy. It's getting the upper loose that's causing me issues. Been pouring rain all day so I haven't had a chance to look at it yet...
Old 02-24-2008, 08:51 PM
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Okay. I lied. I pulled upper, lower, upright, everything. And finally got the upper separated and the new Pfadt bushings and dogbones in. But for the life of me I couldn't get the lower to separate -- hitting the nut, hitting where the doc file shows with the 2x4, etc, etc. I think It's going to be new boots and a pickle fork. I give up. :-) The lower boots are burned up, anyway...
Old 02-24-2008, 09:51 PM
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ErnieN85
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Originally Posted by gkmccready
Okay. I lied. I pulled upper, lower, upright, everything. And finally got the upper separated and the new Pfadt bushings and dogbones in. But for the life of me I couldn't get the lower to separate -- hitting the nut, hitting where the doc file shows with the 2x4, etc, etc. I think It's going to be new boots and a pickle fork. I give up. :-) The lower boots are burned up, anyway...
Glen, you were working with it on the car?
Usually you jack it up remove the wheel then loosen the nut and then wack it.
The tension of the spring usually does it! then put the jack under the joint remove the nut and lower the jack.
If this is the way you are doing it then it's really stuck!
I'd use a press if that is the point you are at.


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