Seperating Ball Joints to Remove A-Arms
#1
Safety Car
Thread Starter
Seperating Ball Joints to Remove A-Arms
Okay. I am definitely lacking a Kent-Moore J42188. What's the magic to doing this? I need to pull them to replace the bushings that have gone for a walk...
#4
Le Mans Master
#5
Team Owner
I had ordered the tool but never used it after he showed me before the tool came in. They guy is a master at everything. He restored a '58 Cameo Chevy pickup he had since 1961. Took it to GM's show they offered him 100,000 for it. It is really worth about 40-50 on a real market sale. 175+ tool for someone when I croak.
Last edited by John Shiels; 02-23-2008 at 03:32 PM.
#6
Safety Car
Thread Starter
Well, I bent a cheap 3" gear puller, and the 15/16" pickle fork doesn't fit. Hitting the side, eh? Hm... no love for me there, but I'm not entirely sure what you're refering to...
Last edited by gkmccready; 02-23-2008 at 03:48 PM.
#7
Team Owner
hold big lump hammer on one side of aluminum arm then take big ballpeen and rap the other side. Picture it as being squeezed out. Know what I mean?
#9
Melting Slicks
You should whack the area directly around where the ball joint shafts goes thru. If the shaft is going thru the donut hole, hit the outside of the donut. I keep the nut on by a few threads and sometimes apply a little pressure with a floor jack.
#10
Safety Car
Thread Starter
I see. So place a hammer on the opposite side of the point of the A, then whack it. Effectively trying to briefly oval the hole. I'll give it a shot once the rain lets up...
#11
Team Owner
After posting in the other thread I remembered that the Pitman arm remover from Autozone fits. The balljoint one is too small but the Pitman works.
I also would suggest taking the entire corner off as a piece, upper, knuckle, and lower, then seperating it.
I had a much easier time this way.
I also would suggest taking the entire corner off as a piece, upper, knuckle, and lower, then seperating it.
I had a much easier time this way.
#12
Premium Supporting Vendor
I bought a ball joint kit from Sears. It has several different size forks. Can't remember exactly which one fits the ball joints on the Z06. But, it wasn't too hard for me to figure out which one fit, ease it between the boot and the spindle and pop it hard with a hammer. That usually popped the a-arm off the spindle fairly easily.
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C66 Racing #66 NASA ST2, SCCA T2
AMSOIL Dealer (Forum Vendor)
AMSOIL Ordering Information (Retail sales using reference #1206638 benefit the forum.)
AMSOIL Preferred Customer Program (Members buy at Wholesale - a savings of about 25%)
AMSOIL Catalog
#13
Drifting
I like putting two nuts on the threaded shaft with the washer in-place and all it takes is a light tap on the top nut and you're done. This way you don't bang up the aluminum. Once it pops the spring pressure will be against the lower nut. To remove just jack-up the lower A-Arm slightly and take the nuts off then lower slowly.
#15
Le Mans Master
Member Since: Dec 2006
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I like putting two nuts on the threaded shaft with the washer in-place and all it takes is a light tap on the top nut and you're done. This way you don't bang up the aluminum. Once it pops the spring pressure will be against the lower nut. To remove just jack-up the lower A-Arm slightly and take the nuts off then lower slowly.
worked though
i am not sure of the pimple popping method...would that stress the aluminum?
#16
Melting Slicks
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i did this method didn't work at first but then i put PB blaster on it ans 10 minutes later it popped out real easy. but..made it a bit of a pain to put back in it kept spinning with the nut, had to tap it in a bit..alot!
worked though
i am not sure of the pimple popping method...would that stress the aluminum?
worked though
i am not sure of the pimple popping method...would that stress the aluminum?
If you don't overtighten the nut it will come apart easily the next time.
Frank Gonzalez.
#17
Le Mans Master
#18
Safety Car
Thread Starter
The lower isn't an issue, it's easy. It's getting the upper loose that's causing me issues. Been pouring rain all day so I haven't had a chance to look at it yet...
#19
Safety Car
Thread Starter
Okay. I lied. I pulled upper, lower, upright, everything. And finally got the upper separated and the new Pfadt bushings and dogbones in. But for the life of me I couldn't get the lower to separate -- hitting the nut, hitting where the doc file shows with the 2x4, etc, etc. I think It's going to be new boots and a pickle fork. I give up. :-) The lower boots are burned up, anyway...
#20
Safety Car
Okay. I lied. I pulled upper, lower, upright, everything. And finally got the upper separated and the new Pfadt bushings and dogbones in. But for the life of me I couldn't get the lower to separate -- hitting the nut, hitting where the doc file shows with the 2x4, etc, etc. I think It's going to be new boots and a pickle fork. I give up. :-) The lower boots are burned up, anyway...
Usually you jack it up remove the wheel then loosen the nut and then wack it.
The tension of the spring usually does it! then put the jack under the joint remove the nut and lower the jack.
If this is the way you are doing it then it's really stuck!
I'd use a press if that is the point you are at.