What do you guys think of this trailer??
02-25-2008, 02:37 PM
#1
Safety Car
Thread Starter
What do you guys think of this trailer??
All thought and suggestions appreciated.
Here's the link -> http://www.racingjunk.com/post/90903...r-Escape-.html
Tow with 3/4 ton pickup or Suburban (3/4 ton chassis).
Need a winch and AC.
TIA.
Here's the link -> http://www.racingjunk.com/post/90903...r-Escape-.html
Tow with 3/4 ton pickup or Suburban (3/4 ton chassis).
Need a winch and AC.
TIA.
02-25-2008, 02:51 PM
#2
Melting Slicks
Nice trailer...but I'll bet it ain't cheap! Your truck will tow it just fine.
It's only got 5K axles and you won't have a lot of room for spares though, so you may want to seek out a 28' instead with the same features. Try to get the 6K axles and tires!!! You'll quickly overload that 24' with your car and tools...and start going thru tires quickly.
Try to get 2 spare tires and wheels for it!
It's only got 5K axles and you won't have a lot of room for spares though, so you may want to seek out a 28' instead with the same features. Try to get the 6K axles and tires!!! You'll quickly overload that 24' with your car and tools...and start going thru tires quickly.
Try to get 2 spare tires and wheels for it!
Last edited by wtknght1; 02-25-2008 at 02:55 PM.
02-25-2008, 02:56 PM
#3
Team Owner
Member Since: Sep 2003
Location: Raleigh / Rolesville NC
Posts: 43,084
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what wt are the axles?
I have a Pace Pursuit 24" which I love, except I have 3500 axles. So I am maxed out with car, trailer and junk.
Does OK no problems what so ever, and still on original tires.
but wish I had 5000 lb axles
Here is a Pace Pursurt 24" with 7,000 axles
http://nasa.racingjunk.com/post/8288...Axle-Pkg..html
Need to paint the inside as it is wood.
I have a Pace Pursuit 24" which I love, except I have 3500 axles. So I am maxed out with car, trailer and junk.
Does OK no problems what so ever, and still on original tires.
but wish I had 5000 lb axles
Here is a Pace Pursurt 24" with 7,000 axles
http://nasa.racingjunk.com/post/8288...Axle-Pkg..html
Need to paint the inside as it is wood.
Last edited by AU N EGL; 02-25-2008 at 03:03 PM.
02-25-2008, 03:04 PM
#4
Le Mans Master
That's a nice trailer, Joel.
If you're using a 3/4 ton Suburban without the 8.1 liter motor, you won't be happy towing that trailer.
I towed my 24' (#9,500 - #10,000 loaded) just like that one and with my 3/4 ton Yukon with the 6-liter motor and it was a load. In fact, I don't think it would have made the tow to Mid-Ohio pulling my loaded 24', it just didn't have the power. An 8.1 engine makes a huge difference.
If you're using a 3/4 ton Suburban without the 8.1 liter motor, you won't be happy towing that trailer.
I towed my 24' (#9,500 - #10,000 loaded) just like that one and with my 3/4 ton Yukon with the 6-liter motor and it was a load. In fact, I don't think it would have made the tow to Mid-Ohio pulling my loaded 24', it just didn't have the power. An 8.1 engine makes a huge difference.
02-25-2008, 03:04 PM
#5
Safety Car
Thread Starter
what wt are the axles?
I have a Pace Pursuit 24" which I love, except I have 3500 axles. So I am maxed out with car, trailer and junk.
Does OK no problems what so ever, and still on original tires.
but wish I had 5000 lb axles
Here is a Pace Pursurt 24" with 7,000 axles
http://nasa.racingjunk.com/post/8288...Axle-Pkg..html
Need to paint the inside as it is wood.
I have a Pace Pursuit 24" which I love, except I have 3500 axles. So I am maxed out with car, trailer and junk.
Does OK no problems what so ever, and still on original tires.
but wish I had 5000 lb axles
Here is a Pace Pursurt 24" with 7,000 axles
http://nasa.racingjunk.com/post/8288...Axle-Pkg..html
Need to paint the inside as it is wood.
02-25-2008, 03:16 PM
#6
Safety Car
Thread Starter
That's a nice trailer, Joel.
If you're using a 3/4 ton Suburban without the 8.1 liter motor, you won't be happy towing that trailer.
I towed my 24' (#9,500 - #10,000 loaded) just like that one and with my 3/4 ton Yukon with the 6-liter motor and it was a load. In fact, I don't think it would have made the tow to Mid-Ohio pulling my loaded 24', it just didn't have the power. An 8.1 engine makes a huge difference.
If you're using a 3/4 ton Suburban without the 8.1 liter motor, you won't be happy towing that trailer.
I towed my 24' (#9,500 - #10,000 loaded) just like that one and with my 3/4 ton Yukon with the 6-liter motor and it was a load. In fact, I don't think it would have made the tow to Mid-Ohio pulling my loaded 24', it just didn't have the power. An 8.1 engine makes a huge difference.
Is an 8.1 offered in 2008?
02-25-2008, 03:36 PM
#7
Le Mans Master
I went through towing mine with the big Yuk for a few months and finally called it quits and got a Sierra diesel. With the 6 L. Yukon, it was a struggle hauling that weight and overcoming the aero drag of a brick behind the vehicle.
In hilly terrain, such as between her an VIR or here and Road Atlanta, I had to keep the gas to the floor when I came to a series of hills so I could keep the speed at 65.
The brakes and chassis seemed to be up to the job, but the motor was
working overtime.
02-25-2008, 05:03 PM
#9
Instructor
02-25-2008, 05:12 PM
#10
Former Vendor
Nice trailer, I have been scoping out the Pace models, wish they had an aluminum V nose. I have a 28ft Featherlite toyhauler I modded to fit the Vette in but pretty maxed out on the 10,400 rating of my new Tundra.
It pulls well, enough power, mileage really goes to crap from 18 down to 8.8 on pretty flat terrain(I live at 5k ft).
I think all of these trailers should come with a V nose, extra practically free space and tow better.
I am going to look more in depth at such trailers and especially really clean used ones.
Rick
It pulls well, enough power, mileage really goes to crap from 18 down to 8.8 on pretty flat terrain(I live at 5k ft).
I think all of these trailers should come with a V nose, extra practically free space and tow better.
I am going to look more in depth at such trailers and especially really clean used ones.
Rick
02-25-2008, 05:37 PM
#12
Safety Car
Thread Starter
I don't know, but if it's not wait for the diesel version that will be out in the summer of '09.
I went through towing mine with the big Yuk for a few months and finally called it quits and got a Sierra diesel. With the 6 L. Yukon, it was a struggle hauling that weight and overcoming the aero drag of a brick behind the vehicle.
In hilly terrain, such as between her an VIR or here and Road Atlanta, I had to keep the gas to the floor when I came to a series of hills so I could keep the speed at 65.
The brakes and chassis seemed to be up to the job, but the motor was
working overtime.
I went through towing mine with the big Yuk for a few months and finally called it quits and got a Sierra diesel. With the 6 L. Yukon, it was a struggle hauling that weight and overcoming the aero drag of a brick behind the vehicle.
In hilly terrain, such as between her an VIR or here and Road Atlanta, I had to keep the gas to the floor when I came to a series of hills so I could keep the speed at 65.
The brakes and chassis seemed to be up to the job, but the motor was
working overtime.
02-25-2008, 06:06 PM
#13
Team Owner
I don't know, but if it's not wait for the diesel version that will be out in the summer of '09.
I went through towing mine with the big Yuk for a few months and finally called it quits and got a Sierra diesel. With the 6 L. Yukon, it was a struggle hauling that weight and overcoming the aero drag of a brick behind the vehicle.
In hilly terrain, such as between her an VIR or here and Road Atlanta, I had to keep the gas to the floor when I came to a series of hills so I could keep the speed at 65.
The brakes and chassis seemed to be up to the job, but the motor was
working overtime.
I went through towing mine with the big Yuk for a few months and finally called it quits and got a Sierra diesel. With the 6 L. Yukon, it was a struggle hauling that weight and overcoming the aero drag of a brick behind the vehicle.
In hilly terrain, such as between her an VIR or here and Road Atlanta, I had to keep the gas to the floor when I came to a series of hills so I could keep the speed at 65.
The brakes and chassis seemed to be up to the job, but the motor was
working overtime.
diesel diesel diesel 8.8 mpg in a gas Tundra 
gas just gets horrible mileage no matter who makes it and doesn't have the power. I would go 26" if possible probably not much more. Torsion bar suspension should ride better than springs. I see trailers on ebay with Dexter brakes and torsion bar suspension, 10,000 gvw for 3900 basic but that is cheap. May be from China
May be a POS
Last edited by John Shiels; 02-25-2008 at 07:41 PM.
02-25-2008, 10:14 PM
#14
Le Mans Master
I bought a 28' Pace from Dorsey Trailer Sales in 2005 when I lived in NC. Good guys to deal with and the trailer and paperwork was ready when I arrived. Very easy transaction on my part. The trailer has been great too. I'll be towing it back to NC when I move back this summer.
02-26-2008, 12:08 AM
#15
Drifting
Enclosed trailers are not all they are cut out to be. They take a lot more gas/fuel due to the windage and take a lot more room to store.
In other words, bigger is not always better.
I have a 24' enclosed trailer and I may be getting rid of it due to the huge windage when towing and the PITA to store it. I may trade down to a small 16' aluminum open trailer...no rust!
I guess it depends what you really want. With an enclosed trailer, hopefully nobody Fu@&s with your stuff while you're asleep at a hotel. If the windows are removed from your race car no rain gets in. If you are not towing long distances and have the storage space an enclosed trailer is best. If you ever plan on buying and picking up a car cross-country plan on stopping at gas stations every 200-225 miles to fill-up at $60-$75 per stop!
Anyways, regarding that trailer, they are nice, but not much better than the lower priced ones you see on e-bay. I got one of those cheapo models from e-bay with 7,200 # axles and a few upgrades for $6,000 and it works fiine; (They are just trailers). I dolled it up with white paint on the sidewalls and black & white linoleum on the floor. If I were to spend over $9,000 I would step up to a Featherlite. They are all aluminum, lighter and will never rust, will hold value longer, but will set you back around $14,000.
In other words, bigger is not always better.
I have a 24' enclosed trailer and I may be getting rid of it due to the huge windage when towing and the PITA to store it. I may trade down to a small 16' aluminum open trailer...no rust!
I guess it depends what you really want. With an enclosed trailer, hopefully nobody Fu@&s with your stuff while you're asleep at a hotel. If the windows are removed from your race car no rain gets in. If you are not towing long distances and have the storage space an enclosed trailer is best. If you ever plan on buying and picking up a car cross-country plan on stopping at gas stations every 200-225 miles to fill-up at $60-$75 per stop!
Anyways, regarding that trailer, they are nice, but not much better than the lower priced ones you see on e-bay. I got one of those cheapo models from e-bay with 7,200 # axles and a few upgrades for $6,000 and it works fiine; (They are just trailers). I dolled it up with white paint on the sidewalls and black & white linoleum on the floor. If I were to spend over $9,000 I would step up to a Featherlite. They are all aluminum, lighter and will never rust, will hold value longer, but will set you back around $14,000.
02-26-2008, 05:16 AM
#16
My closest track is 2 hours each way but I tow to LRP,WG and Canada which are 4-8 hour tows a few times a year. I am south of Boston and there are lots significant elevation changes (hills) every where I tow.
I had a 1500 96 Suburban with steel open trailer. I really killed the Suburban after 4 years of towing. I replaced it with a 2001 6.0l 2500 Yukon 2500 with the 3:72 rear. It was adequate with the open trailer.
2 years ago I "upgraded" to a used CargoPro Aluminum enclosed 24' trailer. The small block was not up to the task of pulling the extra weight (and drag) on the enclosed trailer. Last year I was rear ended by an FBI agent transporting prisoners in an armored truck. He totaled the Yukon.
I was able to test drive a 2007 2500 Yukon with the 6l engine and 4:10 rear. It was not up to the task. I also tested a DuraMax 2500 pickup. They are great trucks BUT I am not a pick up guy (plus my wife said NO). I purchased a 2004 Suburban with the big block and the 3:72 (I could not find what I wanted with the 4:10. The big block gets almost the same around town mileage and did MUCH better towing. I still know the trailer is there but can go a constant 75mph getting better mileage than with the smaller motor.
My suggestion would be to look for a used aluminum box or open trailer to use with anything less than a diesel or big block. I think my trailer weighs 2200 pounds less than the equivalent steel/wood version.
I would also highly recommend in addition to a winch. A roof mounted solar panel and an inverter to charge a 12v auto battery in the trailer (Winch, trailer brakes,lights,cordless impact wrench, droplight and boom box) when AC current is not available. Get either lots of cabinets or E track as nothing stays in place if it is loose when you tow. Do not store your gas cans in the same cabinet with your battery-inverter or breaker box. Make sure you mount stuff so that you can easily get to all 4 corners of the car to tie it down once the trailer is fully loaded and get some extra D rings up front and in the middle of the trailer.
Good luck
Jeff
I had a 1500 96 Suburban with steel open trailer. I really killed the Suburban after 4 years of towing. I replaced it with a 2001 6.0l 2500 Yukon 2500 with the 3:72 rear. It was adequate with the open trailer.
2 years ago I "upgraded" to a used CargoPro Aluminum enclosed 24' trailer. The small block was not up to the task of pulling the extra weight (and drag) on the enclosed trailer. Last year I was rear ended by an FBI agent transporting prisoners in an armored truck. He totaled the Yukon.
I was able to test drive a 2007 2500 Yukon with the 6l engine and 4:10 rear. It was not up to the task. I also tested a DuraMax 2500 pickup. They are great trucks BUT I am not a pick up guy (plus my wife said NO). I purchased a 2004 Suburban with the big block and the 3:72 (I could not find what I wanted with the 4:10. The big block gets almost the same around town mileage and did MUCH better towing. I still know the trailer is there but can go a constant 75mph getting better mileage than with the smaller motor.
My suggestion would be to look for a used aluminum box or open trailer to use with anything less than a diesel or big block. I think my trailer weighs 2200 pounds less than the equivalent steel/wood version.
I would also highly recommend in addition to a winch. A roof mounted solar panel and an inverter to charge a 12v auto battery in the trailer (Winch, trailer brakes,lights,cordless impact wrench, droplight and boom box) when AC current is not available. Get either lots of cabinets or E track as nothing stays in place if it is loose when you tow. Do not store your gas cans in the same cabinet with your battery-inverter or breaker box. Make sure you mount stuff so that you can easily get to all 4 corners of the car to tie it down once the trailer is fully loaded and get some extra D rings up front and in the middle of the trailer.
Good luck
Jeff
02-26-2008, 05:42 AM
#17
Team Owner
My friend is semi retired and has a restored 59 Chevy Cameo he has taken all over the country to shows. It was a short bed double cab. This let him have only a small fuel tank. He also had the big block and was constanly stopping for gas. Gas bills were HUGE and to get any where with alll the stops was horrible.
02-26-2008, 08:16 AM
#18
That is a good price with the interior upgrade and the front upper cabinets and escape door, oversized side door, 5k axles, and aluminum wheels. I bought mine (20' Pace Rallye) through a similar vendor on racingjunk, and have been very happy with it. The extra you may pay for the Pace name is worth it at resale time.
02-26-2008, 08:26 AM
#19
Le Mans Master
I would also highly recommend in addition to a winch. A roof mounted solar panel and an inverter to charge a 12v auto battery in the trailer (Winch, trailer brakes,lights,cordless impact wrench, droplight and boom box) when AC current is not available. Get either lots of cabinets or E track as nothing stays in place if it is loose when you tow. Do not store your gas cans in the same cabinet with your battery-inverter or breaker box. Make sure you mount stuff so that you can easily get to all 4 corners of the car to tie it down once the trailer is fully loaded and get some extra D rings up front and in the middle of the trailer.
Good luck
Jeff
Good luck
Jeff
Lots of e-track is essential. That allows you the flexibility to strap stuff down everywhere. I bought lots of extra e-track and mounted some even on the floor near the front.
And, like Jeff says, leave room to get to stuff. Make sure you have easy access to the trailer jack and spare tires when the trailer is loaded. I carry 2 spares and can get to them very easily should I have a flat along the highway, which has happened.
02-26-2008, 02:02 PM
#20
Safety Car
Thread Starter
Lot's of good info! Thanks!!!
I think I'll set up a gas generator ...... to power tools/compreessor, lights,AC etc. Can't I trickle charge the trailer Bat off of this?
I think I'll set up a gas generator ...... to power tools/compreessor, lights,AC etc. Can't I trickle charge the trailer Bat off of this?