2000BSME

Hello all, it's been awhile since I've posted in this section, but the season is upon us, and I have unresolved issues from last year that are costing me big $$$.

I would love to have some advice on what I might be doing wrong.

Starting information:

I got an alignment years ago, to stock 'z06' specifications. I am a little gunshy about getting alignments because I have so much trouble getting my car onto the rack.... I know I know, alignments are key... I will try to get it back on the rack before my first event at the end of March.

I've been to maybe 10-15 track days in the last 2 years, and in those years, I've run Hoosier R6's all the way around, 275 17's up front, and 315 18's in the rear. I've been able to remain on the rears for the ENTIRE time, never having to replace them, ever. The front left is a big problem for me though. I've been through several LF tires, and the last time I went out, I corded my $270 FL in one single day of heavy lapping.

This is getting to be too expensive, and I need to get it straight before I start this season.

My tire pressures are about 22-24 rear cold, and 25-27 front cold.


My hometown track is clockwise, if that makes a difference in your advice...

thanks

Pictures below, and nevermind the tire orientation to the wheel. ALL cording took place on the OUTSIDE edge of the mounted tire, on the LF wheel.







I had one of the corded tires remounted for autocross, as I'm not scared of a blowout in a wide open parking lot at 45 mph.

John Shiels

Hoosiers need camber to survive and you have stock specs. Your front left on a clockwise course is what will wear.

rasrboy

Hopefully someone else can verify this, but when I ran Hoosiers I set the cold tire pressures at like 32-35 vs Kumho's where you can go 20-25 cold because of our stiff sidewall. Hoosier has a great tire, it's just there sidewall is really soft and you may have to adapt your car's settings to be friendly to them. Just my .02 worth!

My opinion is that it is too low on pressure and rolling the outside edge on the front and should come up in PSI. Seeing how most tracks have more right hand turns which puts a lot of beating on your LF.

Your rears I can't explain, but if they have not corded then I guess I would leave those pressures where they are and keep what your doing.

Aaron Quine

2000BSME

so my air pressure isn't too bad off, and I just need to add camber, to the LF? Or both fronts?

THanks

2000BSME

thanks for the info. I ran the pressures that low on AU EGL's recommendations... Maybe he will chime in.

elh0102

Do you know your current camber setting? You probably need all you can get with the stock suspension and those tires. I've never run sticky tires, but 32-35 cold sounds very high to me. I can't open the photos, but if under-inflation is a problem, you should see obvious wear from sidewall rollover. My guess, you probably need more camber than you will find available.

John Shiels

I run mine 33/32 cold and end 40-41 hot. I have 1.5 in the rear and near 3 in the front. There was a discussion where guys said they were running Hoosiers at low settings like 24 to start in T-1 racing. They don't feel good to me low and would wear out in a session if I did that. Last I kooked Hoosier site said end around 40 hot. They have a bunch of info there for camber also. Does the car understeer? 16 twenty minute sessions and my fronts are gone depending on the track. Pocono counter clockwise my right front goes even faster even 6-8 sessions. There is just not a ton of rubber on these tires.




TIRE CARE TIPS
FOR R6 & A6 TIRES
(Download Printable Version)

The R6 and A6 have been developed to improve wear and consistency without any sacrifice of performance. In many cases, the performance will even improve over previous models. The new tire models are an evolution in the continuing effort to provide the best tire for racers.

- Tire Break-In Procedure
- Tire Temperature Recommendations
- Chassis Setup Recommendations
- Tire Pressure Recommendations
- Things to Consider

Tire Break-In Procedure
Proper break-in will not affect initial performance but will increase the competitive life of the tire.

The procedure can be broken down into phases.

1st phase: The initial run
2nd phase: The length of the time the tire is allowed to "cure"

The Initial Run Heat Cycle

R6 Roadrace

The first laps for the tire are critical for setting up the durability and competitive life. The first session should consist of no more than 10-15 minutes of running. The early part of the session should be run at an easy pace, with the speed gradually increased until the end of the session. The final lap should be run at the fastest possible speed. The intent is to achieve maximum tire temp on the last lap. At this point the car should be brought in and the tires allowed to cool at a normal rate.



During the initial run-in process, the inflation pressure should be 3-5 psi higher than you would normally use. The best progression would have the driver taking 4-7 laps to accomplish this break-in. Each lap should be approximately 7-10 seconds a lap faster than the previous lap. The goal is to have the tire temp as high as possible on the last lap without "shocking" the tire during the warm up laps. In essence, no wheelspin, late braking, or sliding. The last lap should be at, or very close, the maximum possible.



A6 Autocross

For autocrossing, the A6 does not need the same break in procedure as the R6. The A6 needs a minimal scuff-in session before the first autocross run. This “session” can comprise of simply driving around the event site at minimal speeds on the A6 set of tires. By scrubbing off the newness of the tread (no or minimal shininess remaining) prior to your first competitive run, the A6 tires will be more consistent in handling, grip and responsiveness on the first run. If this is not completed, running on un-scuffed A6 tires on your first run may result in the tires not gripping properly, or feeling like they “skate” over the course surface. You are welcome to run 3 – 5 psi higher when scuffing in a new set of A6’s, but be sure to reset them to the correct operating pressures before your first autocross run. As you compile autocross runs on your new A6’s, they should become more consistent in run times.

"Cure" Time
After completing the initial run phase, the length of time the tire is allowed to set is possibly more important. The barest minimum for this process to be beneficial is 24 hours. (Not "the next day"). Any less than this is a waste of time. The best situation would allow a week before using the tire again.

Proper tire management is a difficult process. To accomplish this almost always requires a second set of wheels. The payoff is greatly increased competitive tire life.

Following the recommended break-in procedure will require a lot of planning to make it work. The benefits to doing it right include greatly increased tire life as well as consistent performance and durability under stress. Please make an effort to educate your team on the importance of this. It can save you a lot of money.

Tire Temperature Recommendations

For best performance the expected temperature range will vary from track to track. Generally, optimum traction will be generated when the pit lane temps show 180-200 degrees for the R6 in Roadrace applications, and 140-150 degrees for the A6 in an Autocross application.

Note: Use of static infra-red pyrometers is an inaccurate method to monitor tire temps.

Chassis Setup Recommendations
For optimum performance the Hoosier P-Metric radial tires require about 3 degrees of camber. There will be a trade off in maximum performance to maximize wear. Generally, 1/2 degrees less than optimum will result in the best compromise for wear and speed. Less than 2.5 degrees can result in excessive wear on the shoulder junction.

The Hoosier tires typically offer better performance with spring/shock rates higher than previous brands you may have run.

Tire Pressure Recommendations For Competition

Traditionally, Hoosier tires have often required higher pressures than other brands. This has changed with the A6/R6.

Roadrace/track applications

Vehicle size
Recommended Hot Pressure
Cold Pressure

1800-2200 lbs.
34-37+
26-31

2200-2600 lbs.
35-38+
27-32

2600-3000 lbs.
37-41+
27-32

over 3000 lbs.
38-43+
27-33


+Higher pressures will improve the performance capability but will require a more sensitive feel to take advantage of the increase.

One characteristic of the tires is the tendency to "skate" initially (when inflation pressures are correct). It is important to resist lowering the pressure to attempt to eliminate this feeling. Dropping the pressure too far may improve the "feel" of the tire however it will also lower the performance and increase the wear rate.



Autocross applications

For autocross applications, your starting pressure for the first run should be within 1-2 psi of the recommended hot pressures shown above. After the first run and each subsequent run, keep resetting the pressures back to your target hot pressures before taking the next run. This way your tires are at the proper pressure during the bulk of every run you take.

The above chart is a general recommendation which is intended for a standard configuration vehicle (i.e. front engine, rear wheel drive). Factors which can radically affect your pressure set up would include front wheel drive, independent rear suspension, rear engine, McPherson vs. control arm front suspension.

Front Wheel Drive
Vehicles configured with FWD are probably the most difficult application for a tire setup. The combination of steering, braking and accelerating on the front tires, combined with higher corner weights for the front positions produce a harsh environment for the tire. These vehicles will typically have a strut type of suspension which limits camber gain. All these factors result in conditions which require the tire do more work than a simple chart for pressures can accommodate.

In severe cases front tire pressures for FWD vehicles can run in the 48-52 psi (hot). In cases where the tire size is limited to a relatively small tire, the required pressure can run even higher. The front to rear pressure differential on FWD cars can have extreme ranges of inflation, depending on the driver preference, suspension tuning, and track configuration.

Independent rear suspension
With IRS and proper geometry up front, tire pressures can be reduced from the recommendations listed above. When there is adequate camber gain and good roll control, the Hoosier radial tire will perform very well at the reduced air pressure. This results in a bigger "sweet spot" and easier control at the limit.

When tuning at reduced pressures use the following formula to determine the minimum safe pressure: Divide the total vehicle weight, including fuel and driver, by 100 to arrive at the minimum safe pressure. Example: Your car weighs 2750 lbs. as raced. The minimum safe (cold) pressure is 27.5 psi.

Extreme care should be taken when tuning at reduced pressure. Tire damage can occur that is not visible to external inspection.

Vehicles equipped with independent rear suspension (IRS) have a distinct advantage over non-IRS cars when using radial tires. This is true for two reasons. First, it is possible to setup some amount of static negative camber on IRS suspensions, if needed. Second, the IRS geometry can provide the proper camber gain to achieve the dynamic camber needed for a radial tire. This is a great benefit because it then becomes possible to better address front tire grip when the rear of the car can be optimized closer to the tire's potential.
THINGS TO CONSIDER
These tires are molded to their designed tread depth. They do not require shaving to be prepared for competition use.

Due to extremely light construction, Hoosier tires have a much lower polar moment than other radial tires. This translates to a very low rotational mass, which is a good thing for performance applications. The down side to this feature is that the tires do not resist "spikes" in braking force as well as a heavier tire might. As a result, there is a tendency for drivers to "flatspot" a tire the first time really getting to the limit. Vehicles equipped with ABS will benefit from its use. If you do not use ABS it is recommended that you make an effort to minimize stabbing the brakes until you have some experience with the feel of the tire under hard braking.

The light construction also provides less protection from impact damage and punctures. Off course excursions or running over debris on the track will likely result in tire damage.

The tires are not directional. Once some wear has occurred it may be desirable to flip the tire on the wheel in order to even out the wear and maximize tire life.

Wheel Widths
Wheel width dramatically affects wear and performance of the Hoosier P-Metric radial tires.

There is about a one inch window of optimum width. The trick is to figure out that window. A good rule of thumb to use for determining proper width is to use the tread width of the tire. Measure the tread width. Plus or minus 1/2 inch from the tread dimension will indicate the proper rim sizing. It is possible to use narrower wheels, but at a sacrifice to shoulder wear and cornering power.

"Measured" rim vs. "Recommended" rim
In our printed product catalog and on our website tire specifications you will see two columns of information regarding rim dimensions. In most cases, the "measured rim" and the "recommended rim" will be the same. However in the case of DOT tires, the information may appear contradictory.

The reason for the differences lies in the Department of Transportation requirements for publishing tire dimensions on any tire that carries a DOT certification. Each tire size has a specific rim that must be used when taking measurements for tire comparison. This is intended to allow consumers a consistent way to compare tire sizes between brands.

With respect to the Hoosier P-Metric line, the recommended rim size will typically be wider than the DOT standardized wheel.

The fact that a tire will "fit" on a rim is not an indication that it will work effectively in that condition. Radial tires are extremely sensitive to wheel widths. The performance characteristics of the tire can change significantly within the recommended range of application. Mounting a tire on a rim that is outside of the recommendation is not a good idea.

Driving Style/Braking
Driving style has also shown to significantly effect tire wear. Drivers who achieve their speed by "tossing" the car run the risk of increased tire wear. Radial tires develop their highest cornering power at relatively low slip angles. Smooth, tidy driving yields faster lap times and better tire wear.

The braking feel of the Hoosier R6 tire is very vague at the threshold. This is particularly true for "sticker" tires. Drivers need to develop a sensitivity for the limits under braking. This takes time and practice. Failure to apply this will result in flatspotted tires.

Particular care needs to be taken when selecting brake pad compounds. It is possible to have a pad that is too aggressive. This will make it very difficult to develop good braking fell for threshold braking.

Rain Tires
The Hoosier D.O.T. Radial tires are extremely good in dry conditions, however they do not make very good wet weather tires. Having dedicated rain tires available will be necessary for your team to be properly prepared. Hoosier makes a D.O.T. approved bias-ply tire called a "Dirt Stocker" that has been proven to be far superior to any competitors tire as long as it is a steady "wet" condition. Check with your Hoosier representative for size availability.

Hoosier Racing Tire also offers a D.O.T. Radial Wet tire. This tire has a molded tread of symmetrical design. Check the product catalog for the available sizes. The compound for these tires is intended for wet weather use only.

Hoosier also offers a non-D.O.T. radial rain tire based directly on the P-Metric R6 tire. The tread depth is 8/32" and the pattern is the same tread design found on the R6. They have been allowed in BMW Club racing and many other sports car clubs as well. Mounting instructions can be found in the “Road Racing FAQ” section of the website. The list of available sizes can be found in the "road racing/tire specs” section of our website.

When using rain tires, always increase your starting air pressure 2-4 psi over your dry tire pressures.

Solofast

First, if you are going to run sticky tires you better plan on having a lot more negative camber than a stock setting or you are going to go thru tires like Grant took Richmond....

Hoosers are worse than V710's in terms on requiring negative camber, they have a more square tread shoulder and there isn't much rubber on the outer shoulder of the tire. As a result, running insufficient camber will eat Hoosiers, as you have clearly found. If you are going to seriously track the car you need to be looking at closer to -2 degrees of negative camber in the front. Also, with insufficient front camber the car will tend to push, and that push will also contribute to excessive front tire wear.

Second, alignment on these cars can change if you are running sticky tires and don't gorilla torque the adjustment bolts. Putting the car on the rack every other season isn't good enough maintenance. You need to put it on the rack any time that you think that it may have moved. Raftracer marks his alignments with a paint stripe so that you can look at the adjustment and see very quickly if anything has moved.

Align the car to -2 in the front and about -1.3 in the back and mark all of the excentrics with paint so that you can see if they have slipped. That should get you closer to where you need to be.

John Shiels

FREQUENTLY ASKED
ROAD RACING QUESTIONS



QUESTIONS:

1. How do I purchase a Hoosier Race Tire?
2. What is the number written on my bias race tire in yellow chalk?
3. How do I get Hoosier decals for my race car?
4. What rim width should I use for my application?
5. Does it matter which direction I mount my Hoosier RACE TIRES?
6. How do I know when it is time to replace my R6/A6 competition radials?
7. What are the do's and don'ts when storing Hoosier race tires at the end of the racing season?
8. I would like to sell Hoosier tires, how do I become a Hoosier Tire Dealer?

1. How do I purchase a Hoosier Race Tire?

Hoosier Race Tires are purchased through our extensive distribution network of distributors and dealers. Select "distribution" under any race tire category under the Race Tire section. You will see a map of the United States, find the nearest distributor to you and click on the star. The address and phone numbers of the distributor will be displayed. The distributor will either be able to sell direct to you or place you in contact with a dealer who is closer to you who will. (Top)

2. What is the number written on my bias race tire in yellow chalk?

As a result of a tire being bias in design (as opposed to radial), it will have a circumference that varies from tire to tire. This is not something that is unique to Hoosier but is common to all bias tire manufacturers. However, Hoosier has went to the expense of placing a "chalk-mark" on its bias ply tires in an attempt to assist the consumer in making the proper selection when purchasing new tires. It is something Hoosier does that our competition does not. Now, to understand its use, you need to understand a little of the manufacturing process as well.

After a tire is cured, it is removed from the press and placed on a machine called a "post-inflator". On this machine each tire has air injected into it for a set period of time. The amount of air is determined by our engineering department and is not the same for every type of tire Hoosier produces. After a set time period, a tire is then measured and the circumference is recorded. Then a press operator writes the size on the side of treaded tires and on the tread of slicks, in yellow chalk. All Hoosier bias ply tires with a chalk-mark, follow this same process.

Now, how should the chalk mark be interpreted? It should be viewed as a reference point or a guide on purchasing tires by size to attempt to attain a certain stagger. Say for instance, you needed to replace your right front tire. Your car currently has 1" of stagger (with the RF @ 28 p.s.i.) but you want to get 1 1/2" of stagger. The tire you were replacing had an original chalk mark of 86", and had a roll out, of say, 85". Obviously, you would want to purchase a tire bigger than the 86" tire you removed. Most likely, a tire with a chalk-mark of 86 1/2". You have to remember there are many factors that go into what size a tire will actually measure. The ambient temperature that day, the air pressure in the tire, whether the tire is new or old. These are factors that no, one person, controls. You just need to be aware of their existence and work with what you know. The chalk mark does not tell you the circumference of the tire at running pressure, it does not tell you how big a tire will grow to, it tells you that a tire is either going to be bigger or smaller than another one with a different chalk mark. It's just that simple. Bias ply tires, by nature, are going to vary in size, whether you buy a Hoosier or the competition's tire. By keeping good records, using common sense and understanding how the chalk-mark Hoosier tires provide, you will be step ahead in selecting the proper sized tire(s) (Top)

3. How do I get Hoosier decals for my race car?

If you send us an e-mail at info@hoosiertire.com, requesting the decals, we would be happy to send them to you free of charge to anywhere in the United States and Canada. Remember to include your mailing address as to where you want them sent. To help defer the cost and avoid waste, in the e-mail please tell us whether you want BLACK decals or WHITE decals. We appreciate your support of Hoosier by displaying our name proudly on your race car. (Top)

4. What rim width should I use for my application?

The answer depends on which type of tire you are using.

For our radial tires a good rule of thumb is to take the tread width dimension (+-) 1/2 inch. This will put you in the optimum range for the tire. The tire will mount on a wheel outside of this range, however performance and wear may be negatively affected.

If you find that your vehicle, or the rules, will not allow a wide enough wheel for the tire you think you would like, consider using a narrower tire. In most cases a properly sized wheel/tire combination will outperform a wider tire on a wheel that is too narrow.

If you are looking at our DOT bias racing tires the tolerance is a bit broader. For our DOT bias line we publish a "measured rim" or "design rim" dimension. This dimension simply indicates the width of the wheel the tire was mounted on when the other listed dimensions are recorded.

Bias ply tires are more tolerant of a range of wheel sizes. Typically, the listed rim dimension is a good starting point. The wider tires can range (+-) an inch without noticeable change in performance. A narrow (less than 6" wide) tire will tolerate (+-) 1/2 inch.

This would also apply to the Historic product line in our tire specs.

In the Road Racing section of our product line the racing slicks are typically designed for specific applications where the wheel width is controlled. The tire is designed to perform at its best on the wheel listed in the "design rim" or "recommended rim" column. Once again, there is a tolerance for this dimension. The tire will mount on a different sized rim but, may exhibit unusual wear or stability outside of the recommended rim.

This is particularly important on "cantilevered" tires. This is a specific type of construction used in racing classes which have very narrow wheel restrictions. The design of the tire allows the usable tread to far exceed the width of the wheel. These tires should ONLY be mounted on the rim sizes indicated in the specs.

Follow-up question,...Why are the listed rim dimensions different than the recommendations?

Whenever a D.O.T. tire spec is published there are Tire & Rim Association guidelines for the specific rim size for a particular tire. This is intended to standardize the information so that it is possible to compare one brand of tire to another.

For performance uses these Tire & Rim Association recommendations may not reflect a best choice or the designed application. (Top)

5. Does it matter which direction I mount my Hoosier RACE TIRES?

6. How do I know when it is time to replace my R6/A6 competition radials?

Located on the tread surface of the tires are small divots or holes. These divots are called tread depth holes and are used to measure the wear of tread. Tread depth is usually referred to in 32nds of an inch. A brand new tire should measure 4/32 of depth in each of the holes. By keeping track of the number of laps on each set of tires and measuring the depth of tread, you can calculate how much wear is left in the tires. When the holes are completely flush with the tread, it is definitely time to change to a new set of tires. There is tread rubber under the depth hole and the tire can continue to be run, but the driver must be aware the performance level will be at its lowest. When this rubber below the depth hole is gone, you will then see the first layer of cords. At this point, the safety of the tire is now compromised and the worn tires should be replaced.

The driver must be the ultimate measure of when to replace the tires. There might be measurable tread depth on the tire, but the performance (grip or handling) of the tire might be low. To get the most wear out of your R6/A6 competition tires, be sure to rotate front to rear or side to side after an event. (Top)


after the holes are gone I think I was told 2-3/32" and you get cords. Not positive but you can ask Phil who is on the PDA web site as a tire dealer.

96CollectorSport

Looking into a set of polyurthaine a-arm bushings will also help, just because you set you camber to -2 to -3 degrees up front doesn't mean that it is going to stay there when loaded. The bushings will help you keep the settings you dialed in.
Hoosier says -3 degrees, but you will proabably only be able to get about 2.5, if you look into the Pfadt or VB&P bushing kits the dog bones for the upper a-arms will give you a little extra camber so you may get as close as -2.75.

But as you can see camber is key and that is why you are cording the fronts.
I have several customers running Pirreli and Dunlop racing slicks which wear out quicker than DOT-R's and once we switched to poly bushings we doubled the life of the front tires!

AU N EGL

Stock alignment will hurt any tires that are tracked. Heck stock alignment specs are too mild for street tires too.

I prefer the lower air pressure in the Hoosiers then what Hoosier recomends any way.

I run 19-20 psi rear and 20-21 psi front cold any time it gets over 26 hot the tires are just too greasy ( slippery ) for me.

2000BSME

wow. I was planning that switch, looks like sooner rather than later would be financially beneficial.

gonzalezfj

DING!!! We have a winner!!!

Enough camber and soft pressures will give you optimum grip. Dozens of T1 racers can't be wrong.

Frank Gonzalez

EvilBoffin

Tom -

What alignment specs for a DE/street Vette do you recommend?

AU N EGL

Street use.

front
-1.0 to -1.25 camber
6* to 6.5* caster. Some ppl like MAX but equal Caster, I think ( but could be wrong more then 6.5* caster is too much
toe: 1/16 OUT. I think 1/8" out is too much unless you auto-X

no ranges must be exact.
Measure toe in Inches, not degrees.

Rear
camber 1/2 of front or
-0.5 to -0.75
toe: 1/16" to 1/8" IN

again must be exact no ranges.

Aggressive street HPDE use

Front
Camber -1.5*
Caster: 6* to 6.5*
toe: 1/16" Out

Rear:
Camber -1.0*
toe: 1/16" IN

Again, exact on each side, no ranges.


Track / racing also depends on the circuit

Front
Camber: -2.0* to -3.0*
toe: Zero to 1/8" out with 1/16" working very well
Caster" 6* to 6.5*

Rear:
Camber: -1.0 to -1.5*
toe: 1/16" to 1/8" IN

auto-x may want MAX but equal caster and 1//8" to 1/4" toe OUT in front and 1/8" toe to 1/4" IN for the rear. Depending on the course and each drivers experience.

Redneck HELL, NC ? damn you are one of the Good Ol' Gray Stars and Bars boyz. I salute you.

jkonkle

Camber on both sides and get the tire pressures up. If you talk to someone who is telling you to run lower pressures, don't take their picture "they will think you are stealing their soul" hah, seriously run what you feel comfortable with - you'll know if you are riding on humps or the flat of the tire...

I would also recommend watching wear on the hoosiers. I got two full weekends out of the R6s by swapping them LF2RF/RF2LF and inside-out, don't just swap rims+tires, have the tire unmounted and remounted, but you must watch them else they may just mount them the equivalent of moving rims+tires.

JK

jkonkle

I lost a hoosier at 140 against the wall at TWS, front right (passenger)

here is a recap

waaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa
waaaaaaaaaaaa---shift - whhhhhhaaaaaaaaaaa
140
waaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa-pssshhhhhhhhhhh
wa wa wa wa wa wa wa (that's me crying)

pssshhhhhhhh, I went straight slight braking and then brought back around. I had to cross two area's of track traffic. So when I get back in I'm immediately chastised for doing the stop-then-go across the track (think circle track with road racing cut throughs). Apparently the fire/ambulance/corner workers were having a fit trying to figure out if I was stoping, dying, stoping, dying or getting in an accident. Talk about a reality check....I felt like a total a$$, because in hind-sight (hah, pun) - it was an azzinined thing to do...

anyway, tire blew, all was well in the world...global warming has gotten worse, but I don't think it was my tire blowing that has caused that.

JK

John Shiels

I can't wait to see someone run those low pressures at the track. I start at 32/33 but when the GF is timing me the laps get faster as pressure goes up and ends at 40-41 hot.

EvilBoffin

Tom- THANK YOU.

I am having Dave Farmer align my new LS3 Coupe this weekend, so we will talk over your recommendations.

I'm signed up for the NCM at VIR, so I hope to meet you there... maybe earlier if I can afford some other DE's.

I'm from right here in NC, but moved recently to a 'rural' area near Wally Crawford and Dave Farmer. Yeah Buddy !

I must say though, that without Wally's & Dave's local influence & assistance, I may not have jumped on the Vette-wagon in the first place...

gonzalezfj

John those were the pressures I was running with you at Pocono.

You can't say my car was slow...

Do what works for you; if you like the higher pressures, that's OK with me.

My only point here is that most T1 racers use the low pressures.

Cheers,

Frank Gonzalez