Newbie needs opinions - brake pads
#1
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Newbie needs opinions - brake pads
As a newbie, with less than 1 year of Auto-X under my belt, I find myself needing to replace the brakes, more from daily driver wear and tear than track use. I searched this forum and couldn't find exactly what I was looking for, so I figured I'd ask.
The car is a 98 coupe (mostly stock), and I plan on auto x'ing as many as 5 or 6 events this summer/fall. The car is a daily driver (not a trailer/garage queen). I will be replacing the factory brake hoses with stainless, and at the same time replacing rotors and pads. I've already ordered rotors but need help deciding on the rest.
Hawk HPS pads or z06 pads? Brand of stainless lines? Defend your choices and give up your source for the parts. I'm looking to do this pretty soon, so I'll only be looking at this for a day or two.
Remember this is a daily driver, but I'm not afraid of a little dust.
Thanks in advance...
Scatter'd
The car is a 98 coupe (mostly stock), and I plan on auto x'ing as many as 5 or 6 events this summer/fall. The car is a daily driver (not a trailer/garage queen). I will be replacing the factory brake hoses with stainless, and at the same time replacing rotors and pads. I've already ordered rotors but need help deciding on the rest.
Hawk HPS pads or z06 pads? Brand of stainless lines? Defend your choices and give up your source for the parts. I'm looking to do this pretty soon, so I'll only be looking at this for a day or two.
Remember this is a daily driver, but I'm not afraid of a little dust.
Thanks in advance...
Scatter'd
#2
Burning Brakes
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St. Jude Donor '10-'11
Been autoxing since '03. started with stock Z06 pads, went to Hawk HP Plus in '05 (one step up from HPS pads). Felt the Hawks gave a bit better initial bite.
Put SS BL on in 05 as well. Wanted covered SS lines to protect from abrasion. Most recommended going to -AN fittings, but I didn't come up with a covered line with -AN fittings, so I opted for bango fitting StopTech lines ... have had absolutely no issues with static buildup or anything throwing a code.
Note: My car is lowered on stock bolts, and the stoptech lines are a bit longer ... so at full droop the line is not under tension.
Put SS BL on in 05 as well. Wanted covered SS lines to protect from abrasion. Most recommended going to -AN fittings, but I didn't come up with a covered line with -AN fittings, so I opted for bango fitting StopTech lines ... have had absolutely no issues with static buildup or anything throwing a code.
Note: My car is lowered on stock bolts, and the stoptech lines are a bit longer ... so at full droop the line is not under tension.
#3
Stock Z06 pads would be a nice upgrade. If you goto a autox pad (Hawk HP+ or Carbotech AX6) you will have to deal with more dust and noise. They will give you much better bite and fade resistance, but most dont want to run them on the street due to the above reasons.
I personally run the Carbotech AX6's for street and autox. It's alot of dust and can be noisy at times. No biggie to me, but I get questions all the time asking whats wrong with the brakes they sounded awfull when you pulled in. I just say thats how I know their working!!
I personally run the Carbotech AX6's for street and autox. It's alot of dust and can be noisy at times. No biggie to me, but I get questions all the time asking whats wrong with the brakes they sounded awfull when you pulled in. I just say thats how I know their working!!
#4
Team Owner
Either the stock Z06 pads or the Hawk HPS pads will work fine for street and autocross. Both are rotor-friendly and won't squeal when cold. Hawk HP+ pads need some heat in them to work best while the HPS pads have excellent cold bite characteristics.
The HP+ pads will throw off some signifigant dust. I run them on my 87 for track days and after 2 morning sessions, the front wheels are as black as the tires
Stainless lines may be OK if you need new lines, but check to see if that mod will bump you into a different class. Be careful with line length. StopTech and Goodridge lines have a good rep as dles Earl's. Stay away from Russell and their bleed valves.
If you want to bleed your brakes quickly and easily, get a set of the original Speed Bleeders. www.speedbleeder.com These replace the facory bleed screws and makes brake bleeding a one-person job.
The HP+ pads will throw off some signifigant dust. I run them on my 87 for track days and after 2 morning sessions, the front wheels are as black as the tires
Stainless lines may be OK if you need new lines, but check to see if that mod will bump you into a different class. Be careful with line length. StopTech and Goodridge lines have a good rep as dles Earl's. Stay away from Russell and their bleed valves.
If you want to bleed your brakes quickly and easily, get a set of the original Speed Bleeders. www.speedbleeder.com These replace the facory bleed screws and makes brake bleeding a one-person job.
#6
Le Mans Master
I'm not a fan of SS brake lines, especially for autox applications (don't have enough track/DE experience to comment for that application). I've never had a problem with the pedal going to the floor (which is what would happen if you had a line balloon on you) in the 7 years I've been running my hardtop.
Rotors that are slotted/drilled will also bump your class up (plus not work as well). Autox doesn't put as much heat into the brakes as tracking does, so D/S may not crack as easily, but it's still not the best way to go.
HTH, and have a good one,
Mike
Rotors that are slotted/drilled will also bump your class up (plus not work as well). Autox doesn't put as much heat into the brakes as tracking does, so D/S may not crack as easily, but it's still not the best way to go.
HTH, and have a good one,
Mike
#7
Drifting
I have had SS lines on two cars and could not feel any difference. I would not bother for Solo II.
Call Carbotech. They used to sell a Panther Plus pad which was low dust and was good enough to run on the rears on a short road course.
You can even run some of their race pads on the street without too much dust or squealing. It depends on your comfort level. Even their XP12 works when cold on the street. That is a little extreme, but you get the idea.
Call Carbotech. They used to sell a Panther Plus pad which was low dust and was good enough to run on the rears on a short road course.
You can even run some of their race pads on the street without too much dust or squealing. It depends on your comfort level. Even their XP12 works when cold on the street. That is a little extreme, but you get the idea.
#8
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pads
Wow guys, thanks for the helpful opinions. As a few have commented on the stainless lines - I can get them for less than the OEM replacements, that's why.
Still up in the air on the pads.... z06 or HPS.... Hps or z06...
Thanks again guys!
Scatter'd
Still up in the air on the pads.... z06 or HPS.... Hps or z06...
Thanks again guys!
Scatter'd
#10
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St. Jude Donor '10-'11
FWIW ... I think I'm going to try the AX6 pads from CarboTech when I burn out my HP + pads. I use CarboTech 10/8 combo with street/Nitto 555RII's on track, and that's about the right combo. Reason I'm going to try the AX6 is that staying within the same compound makes it easier to switch back and forth without doing a burnishing/re-bedding cycle.
with Joe on the SpeedBleeders. Though I haven't had any problems, I'm pulling mine after 4 years and going to renew the thread sealant as a PM action. (SpeedBleeder sealant is a 'bake on" item - coat-heat to 200 degrees for 10 minutes, then let cool and install.)
with Joe on the SpeedBleeders. Though I haven't had any problems, I'm pulling mine after 4 years and going to renew the thread sealant as a PM action. (SpeedBleeder sealant is a 'bake on" item - coat-heat to 200 degrees for 10 minutes, then let cool and install.)
#11
Le Mans Master
Have a good one,
Mike
#12
FWIW ... I think I'm going to try the AX6 pads from CarboTech when I burn out my HP + pads. I use CarboTech 10/8 combo with street/Nitto 555RII's on track, and that's about the right combo. Reason I'm going to try the AX6 is that staying within the same compound makes it easier to switch back and forth without doing a burnishing/re-bedding cycle.
with Joe on the SpeedBleeders. Though I haven't had any problems, I'm pulling mine after 4 years and going to renew the thread sealant as a PM action. (SpeedBleeder sealant is a 'bake on" item - coat-heat to 200 degrees for 10 minutes, then let cool and install.)
with Joe on the SpeedBleeders. Though I haven't had any problems, I'm pulling mine after 4 years and going to renew the thread sealant as a PM action. (SpeedBleeder sealant is a 'bake on" item - coat-heat to 200 degrees for 10 minutes, then let cool and install.)