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Old 03-27-2008, 07:38 PM   #1
CrystalRacer
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Default Centric C6 Z51 Rotors vs. NAPA/Raybestos/DuraStop C5 Rotors for HPDE's

Looking at the RockAuto website, they show a DIFFERENT selection of rotor brands and models for almost EVERY year-model of C6 and C5. I believe that all C5, C5/Z06 & base C6 models can use the same rotors, so that's just confusing...

Anyway, they list Centric rotors specific to some MY Z51 model C6 Corvettes. These are shown as "Vented" - not drilled or slotted, and cost a little more per complete set (~ $200 total) then the typical 'cheapie' C5 rotors talked about so much for HPDE's. They also carry Centrics for the standard C6/C5-sizes.

I am thinking about giving the Centrics a try, to be used exclusively for HPDE's with a dedicated set of track pads (probably Wilwood H's). They 'look' to be a slightly better quality item on the website, and since they are the right size for my stock Z51 brake setup, I could avoid having to buy (and constantly swap out) the base-model brackets required to install the cheapie rotors onto my Z51 coupe.

SO -
  • Does anyone have any experience with the Centrics, enough to say whether they are good quality rotors?
  • Does it make more sense to get these Z51-sized rotors and forgo the usual bracket swaps, or just stick with the tried-and-true formula of the ultra-cheapie C5 rotors and use the associated brackets?
Thanks guys, for your input.
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Last edited by CrystalRacer; 03-27-2008 at 11:08 PM.
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Old 03-27-2008, 09:16 PM   #2
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I've been buying Centric rotors for awhile now. I believe they last a little longer. With black centers that don't rust and a little longer life, I think there worth the price difference. Call Jeff at ProParts 818 888-8904. They sell them. He could tell you more about them. Plus they help support my racing.

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Old 03-28-2008, 07:12 PM   #3
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TTT.

Can anyone else offer advise please??
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Old 03-28-2008, 07:54 PM   #4
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I've been using the C5 front Centric rotors from Race Pages, they have free shipping. They work very well for me.

http://www.racepages.com/products/?N...67258+2253+837
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Old 03-28-2008, 09:03 PM   #5
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Thanks for responding - that's good info.

Other opins welcome
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Old 09-08-2008, 11:18 AM   #6
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Did you ever try them out? How'd they work?

Can you provide the Rockauto part numbers?

Also, are these them?
http://www.propartsusa.com/index.php...3097_3182_3206
(first two items)

Thanks!
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Old 09-08-2008, 11:32 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CrystalRacer View Post
They 'look' to be a slightly better quality item on the website, and since they are the right size for my stock Z51 brake setup, I could avoid having to buy (and constantly swap out) the base-model brackets required to install the cheapie rotors onto my Z51 coupe.
Since you have to remove the bracket to install the new rotor it's really no extra work to swap the bracket, especially if you pick up extra hardware with the brackets. It's also a good time to lube the slide pin.
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Old 09-08-2008, 11:39 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by clockworks View Post
Did you ever try them out? How'd they work?

Can you provide the Rockauto part numbers?

Also, are these them?
http://www.propartsusa.com/index.php...3097_3182_3206
(first two items)

Thanks!
I just contacted them... the pictures on that page are incorrect. This is the response I got...
Quote:
Sorry, the 06-08 Z51 rotors, we only offer centric premium rotors which are drilled like the OEM.
So anyone have the part numbers (and website to buy) for the Centric non-drilled Z51 rotors?
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Old 09-08-2008, 11:40 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gkmccready View Post
It's also a good time to lube the slide pin.
What is that and what should I use to lube it (please be specific)? Also, why? Heh, sorry... newb here.
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Old 09-08-2008, 11:46 AM   #10
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thought Rock Auto part numbers were

56700
56701
56702
56703

and Napa numbers:

86700
86701
86702
86703
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Old 09-08-2008, 12:01 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AU N EGL View Post
thought Rock Auto part numbers were

56700
56701
56702
56703
Those are part numbers for the RAYBESTOS rotors (in base C6 sizes?). The topic of this thread is about the Centric C6 Z51 rotors as alternatives to NAPA/Raybestos/DuraStop base sized rotors.

Thanks for the info.
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Old 09-08-2008, 12:10 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by clockworks View Post
What is that and what should I use to lube it (please be specific)? Also, why? Heh, sorry... newb here.
http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3...beGSGRCGLTDBgl

How to describe, how to describe, ... you know the little bolt you pull to change your brake pads? The one that's a bit of a pain because it goes into the female side in the caliper and that side spins? The thing that spins is the slider pin. You can pull it out of the caliper and there's a 99% chance it could use some lube, especially if you've been tracking the car and haven't been lubing it. Just wipe some lube on it and shove it back in to the caliper. If it's a total mess (ie. all scored up) you can order a new one easy enough from Gene Culley @ www.gmpartshouse.com

Here's a little article about slide-rail vs opposed piston calipers:
http://www.lemd.com/motorsport/previous.cfm?id=32
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Old 09-08-2008, 12:33 PM   #13
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Clockworks -

Wish I had CALLED RockAuto instead of depending on the pic on their website to be representative of what I got - it wasn't. They are drilled as you found out, and look exactly like the OEM Z51 rotors.

I got ~3 days HPDE at VIR out of them, exclusively used & bedded in for those track days with Wilwood H pads. That amount of laps does not justify the increase in price over C5 blanks, IMO.

There are no Centric Z51-sized rotors available that are not drilled - sorry. Check out DBA rotors if you're looking for better longevity then OEM C5's. There's also a post on this forum about Brembo offering some slotted Z51-sized rotors now...
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Old 09-08-2008, 01:26 PM   #14
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Ahh, thanks for the clearing that up. Bummer that you didn't get what you were expecting...
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Old 09-08-2008, 03:16 PM   #15
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Whenever you order from Rock auto, rotorwise, just get the cheapest ones they advertise for you car. Rotors are wearable, 3 days, 5 days, doesn't matter. The get trashed no matter what. On top of that, if you don't want them to snap, cool them down properly. This is the main reason why rotors snap, drilled or not. Cool them down properly and you'll likely never end up with more than heat checking.

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Old 09-08-2008, 04:07 PM   #16
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Joe-

I DID drive slowly around the paddock at VIR for at least 10 min.s after each session - almost to the point that I jeopardized getting other stuff done between sessions (like getting to the classroom on time, etc.).

I certainly observed a lot of other guys just pulling straight into their pit & killing their motors, but I didn't feel that was good for the brakes OR my new LS3 motor that was running hot straight off the track.

So you say 'cool down properly' - what does that mean exactly? Is the above not good enough? I would do it if I knew how...
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Old 09-08-2008, 05:02 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CrystalRacer View Post
Joe-

I DID drive slowly around the paddock at VIR for at least 10 min.s after each session - almost to the point that I jeopardized getting other stuff done between sessions (like getting to the classroom on time, etc.).

I certainly observed a lot of other guys just pulling straight into their pit & killing their motors, but I didn't feel that was good for the brakes OR my new LS3 motor that was running hot straight off the track.

So you say 'cool down properly' - what does that mean exactly? Is the above not good enough? I would do it if I knew how...
Sometimes driving around the paddock is not good enough because it simply doesn't create enough airflow, but if it's all you can do then it's all you can do. For me, when I take a checkered I try not to TOUCH the brake for the entire cool down lap, running between 50-60 mph. It creates enough flow for cooling, and gives you the most time for cooling. On short tracks, keep tabs on the time and back off the last few laps because the cool down lap will not do enough. I still drive around the paddock a couple times, even in the race car. Then again, all this is really not needed because rotors are cheap anyway, if they crack oh well. But for me, I just hate changing the dern things all the time!!

Joe
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Old 09-08-2008, 06:13 PM   #18
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Joe-

Thanks. That's basically what I thought.

Well, you know HPDE's at VIR - checkered flag is thrown at Oak Tree, then you only have through Hog Pen to cool down. It's not much of a cool down 'lap' at all. So, I've even driven beyond the pits out to the registration building and back. Of course, that isn't at 50MPH...

I agree that there's a lot of frustration dealing with this rotor issue. Looks like most people are still searching for a better solution....
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Old 09-08-2008, 06:13 PM
 
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