2000BSME

hello,

I just finally received my 17x10fronts, and 17x11rears from a t1 guy that went to 18's all around, and I bought 315's for all four corners from another t1 racer.

I just installed these guys and the passenger side sticks WAY out. Is this gonna **** up my fender? Do I have a serious problem? Is this runable?

I am asking for immediate help because I'm scheduled to be on track TOMORROW, and this is the only tireset that I have available, other than my street tires.

Thanks.

BuckeyeZ06

If those are "T1-spec" CCW wheels, you will be OK. The GCR does allow a certain amount of the tire to protrude from the fender on the C5s. What size tires are you using? 315s on those rims will be more than fine.

John Shiels

Depends on how hard you turn and the distance from tire to fender. What does it measure? I guess from looking at it you have enough room.

gkmccready

If it's just the passenger side you're absolutely sure you didn't put two rears (or two fronts) on one side or the other? ie. Maybe the tires were mounted incorrectly on the rims so maybe you have one front and one rear tire on 17x10, and the same F/R on 17x11 ?

EvilBoffin

It's hard to tell from your pics how much neg. camber you have in the front, but if you find clearance issues with the tops of the fenders or fender liners, adding more negative in the front might help them tuck in better under heavy side loads.

I remember another CF'er (he owns a C6, IIRC) that recently posted pics of a front fender liner that literally got ripped clean off the car cause of his 315's. They poked out of the wheel wells a little less then yours. So take it easy during your first session, and maybe stop in the pits after a few laps just to inspect the clearances and wheel wells.

Have fun on-track, and please report back about how things worked out...

rasrboy

I have to ask this, but do you have 1 rear 17x11 on the front by accident and 1 17x10 front on the rear?

I have done this as they are hard to eyeball unless they are marked clearly front and back.

If that is a front, I would say it is not T1 specs cause that does stick out more than normal.

Like the other guys said you should be fine to run it, just don't go lock to lock as it may rub a little. Just watch it closely.

Aaron

sleeper02Z06

Those look like T1 spec rims to me, set on a car with very mild neg camber. I think the problem you may run into is the rub of the outer fender under compression of the front end, either turning, braking or both. Most T1 cars have whats called a "hoosier clearance" on the fenders.

FWIW it will only be cosmetic. Something catastrophic would have to happen for the rolling tire to rip the inner fender liner completely off. That didn't even happen to my car when it hit a wall! You may get marks, maybe even a hole, but it won't rip off.

Joe

C66 Racing

With 315s on 17x10 up front you will get about 1/2-3/4" of protrusion and your pics look normal to me. As Joe mentioned, there will be some rubbing of the top center of the fender under hard compression, but it won't break or damage the fender.

John Shiels

It will cut into the tire and machine down the fender. if it hits but it will proobaly be OK. Painter tape on fender.

AU N EGL

a little more negative camber and they wont stick out at all

2000BSME

THanks for the replies, I couldn't access CF all day yesterday, something was wrong somewhere in my interweb... but I'm back on tonight.

So far, I have had very minimal rubbing on the driver side front top fender only. The rubbing is 'good' rubbing so far. That means that so far the only rubbing is a very natural enlarging of the wheel well, and nothing in the least bit catastrophic seems to be occuring.

In other news, I am 2 seconds slower than the last time I was at the track in December.

I'll process it tonight, and come back faster tomorrow.

I'm also playing with the stability control off, and as a result have spun my car once, for the first time in 13 track days.

BuckeyeZ06

To find 10/10ths you sometimes need to go 11/10ths...

An axiom I live by...just ask my T1 brethren!

AU N EGL

That is not true. I have seen your videos. You do to drive 10/10ths. On your cool down laps

TRACKMAN2

C66 Racing

Yes, that is definitely not an exaggeration.

John Shiels

If you are hitting now it will only get worse you can easily take 3/8 off the fender like it was machined and cut you tires to the cords fast.

2000BSME

After running the entire weekend with them, it really seemed like I had a TON more grip when braking than I did with the 275 Hoosier R6's up front. Now the Hoosiers were smaller, and had about 50 heat cycles on them, but I wasn't quite ready for how much better the car would stop with these 315 GY GSCS's.

I finally ended up with a pressure of 34 in the fronts, and 28 or so in the back, and that seemed to work well to aviod spinning out, once I learned to stop lifting . I seemed to check the tire cording problem by rotating the fronts after a day, and I also crawed under the car before the weekend and switched the left side cam bolt by a few degrees to increase camber on the LF. I didn't measure, I just went a few ticks more, and then test drove it, and it seemed fine, so I used it that way, and didn't even come close to cording one of the new tires. Awesome.

I got used to running without stability control much more quickly than I thought I would, and by my second session with it off, I was just as fast as I ever was.

I'm haven't dug up any of my old threads on these issues yet, but I'm going to use this thread to answer some of them.

I decided to remove the rear truck decklid completely, to allow my transmission cooler to breath better and see if that allowed my automatic transmission to cool well enough. Well it was a 60* day, and it did well. Any hotter, and I don't think it would've been enough.

I wasn't terribly worried about aerodynamics, because the track was a pretty low speed track anyway, but I was hitting 115mph in 4 different places. I have a new fiberglass vented trunk in the works, but it wasn't ready, so that's why I took the decklid off this time.

The ventilated hood that I made a couple of months ago, out of a carbon fiber overlayed kevlar piece that I bought for $300, seemed to work well to ventilate the under hood area. My coolant temps were 15* lower in similar temperature weather than with the stock hood.

Still haven't solved my knock retard problem yet. Getting it after a lap or two, and as much as 8* of it. The 3.42's were nice, but I think I might have enjoyed 3.73's more. I stayed in 3rd gear around the track the entire time, except for 3 places where I went down to 2nd. That is different than previous outtings, where I went down to 2nd in 5 places.

I had a lot of fun with the other cars, and believe that I have hit somewhat of a plateau with my driving speed/time around the track. I kinda feel like my suspension is now a limiting factor-don't get me wrong, I know I still have a ton of getting better and learning to do, but of the very scant few in my group who where quicker than me, they all had stiffer type suspensions and coilover shocks/springs. I am still running '04 z06 equipment, and now it feels like a hold up for me.

I am running 1:45's around a track that I've only seen one other person do quicker with z06 suspension on a vette, Bill Johnston, an instructor of mine last year, who has since quit driving. He was able to pull down low 1:40's when he was 'on'. A former world challenge c4 driver, luckily, I have some of his tapes so I can compare where my weaknesses are.

I do sometimes wonder where the 'limit' of having an automatic transmission will come in, but I am far from it so far, as my braking and smoothness leave a lot to be desired.

Thanks for helping and reading this far.

C66 Racing

Assuming you mean one of the lower a-arm concentric bolts: by adjusting camber by moving the lower a-arm out, front toe will go in... a lot. If you are going to make camber adjustments, you should really pick up a set of toe plates from Longacre or elsewhere and reset your toe when you are done messing with camber. FYI, setting front toe is easy... setting front toe with your steering wheel centered is harder.

And, for what its worth (your results may vary), I have raced on the 315 fronts dozens of time and have yet to see a cord.

2000BSME

Yeah, David Farmer had that on his website too. I was too much money invested on this track weekend as it was, and I didn't want to go and have another 100 dollars spent on an alignment.

I'll get it sorted this summer sometime.

Thanks.

2000BSME

You were very right, and I didn't fix that problem until a few days ago. It cost my the front tires, about $180, Sumitomos, they wore out from what I finally got around to doing, a Davidfarmer alignment. The front toe was 3/8". What a good sound advice post yours was.

On the plus side, after getting sick of ruining tires, I got the front end squared away and learned a lot more about my car.