If you do your brakes, get one of these
#1
Team Owner
Thread Starter
If you do your brakes, get one of these
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=34304
Cheapest thing I bought that saves me a ton of time.
I've mentioned it before but could never find it on their website.
$2.99 when on sale.
Cheapest thing I bought that saves me a ton of time.
I've mentioned it before but could never find it on their website.
$2.99 when on sale.
#7
Race Director
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=34304
Cheapest thing I bought that saves me a ton of time.
I've mentioned it before but could never find it on their website.
$2.99 when on sale.
Cheapest thing I bought that saves me a ton of time.
I've mentioned it before but could never find it on their website.
$2.99 when on sale.
#9
Safety Car
#10
Tech Contributor
#11
Tech Contributor
I change my pads very frequently for track use so I've got it down to about 1/2 hour with my 4 year old's help. He hands me the pads.
Take two large flat screwdrivers, stick them between the outside pads and the upper and lower edge of the caliper and pry the caliper out using the caliper mount for leverage. Your objective is to pull the caliper outward from the car which pushes the pistons back in their bore. They are floating calipers - this is hard to describe in words but when you try it'll make sense and you'll feel the caliper slide and the pistons slide in the bore. Beats the heck out of fooling around with a c clamp once you figure this out. It's a real time saver.
Then remove the top bolt on the front calipers (I use a small Crescent wrench to hold the caliper pin from turning, the 18 is a pain to get in and the rear is a different size anyway) and it will pivot down without you touching the bottom bolt. Remove the pads and replace, rotate the caliper back down and tighten the bolt.
Same with the back but take out the lower bolt and rotate the caliper up. You have to pull it up a bit but it will clear the pads so you can get them in and out.
The first time you do this it's harder because of the locktite on the bolt. Next time it will be easier.
BE SURE AND PUMP THE BRAKES BACK TO A FIRM PEDAL BEFORE YOU START THE CAR AND MOVE IT. Many a tech has run into something before they realize you have to do this.
Take two large flat screwdrivers, stick them between the outside pads and the upper and lower edge of the caliper and pry the caliper out using the caliper mount for leverage. Your objective is to pull the caliper outward from the car which pushes the pistons back in their bore. They are floating calipers - this is hard to describe in words but when you try it'll make sense and you'll feel the caliper slide and the pistons slide in the bore. Beats the heck out of fooling around with a c clamp once you figure this out. It's a real time saver.
Then remove the top bolt on the front calipers (I use a small Crescent wrench to hold the caliper pin from turning, the 18 is a pain to get in and the rear is a different size anyway) and it will pivot down without you touching the bottom bolt. Remove the pads and replace, rotate the caliper back down and tighten the bolt.
Same with the back but take out the lower bolt and rotate the caliper up. You have to pull it up a bit but it will clear the pads so you can get them in and out.
The first time you do this it's harder because of the locktite on the bolt. Next time it will be easier.
BE SURE AND PUMP THE BRAKES BACK TO A FIRM PEDAL BEFORE YOU START THE CAR AND MOVE IT. Many a tech has run into something before they realize you have to do this.
Many thanks to JoeG for these hints ... just did mine today ... I still was a little confused and accidentally removed the wrong bolt to start with! I have a copy of photos here to help out others.
Here is the way I applied the screwdriver trick mentioned -worked like a charm!!
Make sure to loosen the proper bolt - the one with the 15mm hex head and the locking nut shown here
I used a 15mm socket with an adjustable as shown here - worked like a charm
When you swing the caliper down (wiggle it a bit if you need to - it'll go) it will look like this - just slide out the old pads and slide in the new!
Here is the way I applied the screwdriver trick mentioned -worked like a charm!!
Make sure to loosen the proper bolt - the one with the 15mm hex head and the locking nut shown here
I used a 15mm socket with an adjustable as shown here - worked like a charm
When you swing the caliper down (wiggle it a bit if you need to - it'll go) it will look like this - just slide out the old pads and slide in the new!
#13
Melting Slicks
My short cut; I use a large set of External 90 degree snap pliers (from the freight people, about 3 buck$). I'm always changing my rotors out from street to track so "Joe G's" tip would be extra work. I can hold the caliper in one hand and work the pliers with the other, retracting the pistons all the way home (if need be) before pulling the pads out.
#14
Safety Car
I put d/s rotors for street driving, so I have to change rotors for trackdays. The screwdriver trick looks like it would still work even if you remove the calipers?
Is this what you are talking about? Is it bigger that it looks?
My short cut; I use a large set of External 90 degree snap pliers (from the freight people, about 3 buck$). I'm always changing my rotors out from street to track so "Joe G's" tip would be extra work. I can hold the caliper in one hand and work the pliers with the other, retracting the pistons all the way home (if need be) before pulling the pads out.
Yesterday 03:39 PM
Yesterday 03:39 PM
#15
Tech Contributor
Screwdriver trick works without removing the calipers. With the screwdriver trick I remove one bolt from each caliper and swing them out of the way. Top bolt on front and bottom bolt rear. Dunno if I said that before. Hope this helps someone it sure did me and I like to pass along tips if I get them.