Hot Brakes
#1
Safety Car
Thread Starter
Hot Brakes
Took my new to me 99 FRC to the track for a HPDE yesterday
Now i am used to BMW brakes...hard braking all day with no fade or over-heating...I clearly have a steep learning curve ahead of me...Any long runs on the track-relatively short with a lot of braking and no really long straights- resulted in no brakes no TC no AH until a lot of cooling took place.
Now i plan to do stainless steel brake-lines and use better fluids-any suggestions, and different pads.
Is there any thing else i should consider short of a BBK
Now i am used to BMW brakes...hard braking all day with no fade or over-heating...I clearly have a steep learning curve ahead of me...Any long runs on the track-relatively short with a lot of braking and no really long straights- resulted in no brakes no TC no AH until a lot of cooling took place.
Now i plan to do stainless steel brake-lines and use better fluids-any suggestions, and different pads.
Is there any thing else i should consider short of a BBK
#2
Race Director
Member Since: Oct 2000
Location: Deal's Gap 2004 NCM Motorsports track supporter
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Welcome to the dark side. If you drive your vehicle to the track you may want to try some Hawk HP+'s (not regular HP's). Break them in using the directions before you get to the track. Carry extra pads, and some extra 'broken-in' used rotors. Also, get some cooling ducts for your front brakes. Never apply brakes to complete stop after coming off of track unless absolutely necessary. The first time you apply brakes and let the car sit, you will understand why (cracked rotor!) I just let the car coast to a stop and kill the engine, let out on clutch where I wish to stop. Anyway these are a few things to get you started. Have fun, welcome to the party!
#4
Burning Brakes
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St. Jude Donor '07
I second cooling ducts. Doug Rippie sells a nice set that go all the way to the back of the rotor.
Get some Motul 600 or higher rated brake fluid...
The right pad for the right job. Carbotech XP12/10 combination works very well.
With this brake combination I have had zero brake fade or problems on any of the tracks I have been on (Willow Springs, The Streets of Willow, Buttonwillow, and California Speedway all have lots of turns & braking).
In the long run if you participate in a lot of track events you are going to want to get an engine oil cooler. I have a nice DeWitt radiator with built in EOC that helps tramendously to keep oil temps down.
More tips HERE
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Get some Motul 600 or higher rated brake fluid...
The right pad for the right job. Carbotech XP12/10 combination works very well.
With this brake combination I have had zero brake fade or problems on any of the tracks I have been on (Willow Springs, The Streets of Willow, Buttonwillow, and California Speedway all have lots of turns & braking).
In the long run if you participate in a lot of track events you are going to want to get an engine oil cooler. I have a nice DeWitt radiator with built in EOC that helps tramendously to keep oil temps down.
More tips HERE
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You can find me online at:
http://www.bauerracing.com – personal
http://www.ronbauermortgage.com - business
Lending in all 50 States
Last edited by Solo2GS; 05-07-2008 at 11:15 AM.
#5
Burning Brakes
Member Since: Feb 2005
Location: Up in front.... At the finish line.....
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Don't spend the big money on a big brake kit. The right pads, any brand of choice, cooling ducts, lines and good fluid will do you right. It does me right and we run just a bit harder in the races than most ever will at HPDE's, for longer too. Big Brakes are needed when you start running for HOURS at a time, not 20-30 minute sessions. Do the things above and use cheapo rotors for some good times!
Joe
Joe
#6
Le Mans Master
Member Since: Dec 2006
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Don't spend the big money on a big brake kit. The right pads, any brand of choice, cooling ducts, lines and good fluid will do you right. It does me right and we run just a bit harder in the races than most ever will at HPDE's, for longer too. Big Brakes are needed when you start running for HOURS at a time, not 20-30 minute sessions. Do the things above and use cheapo rotors for some good times!
Joe
Joe
#7
Team Owner
Don't spend the big money on a big brake kit. The right pads, any brand of choice, cooling ducts, lines and good fluid will do you right. It does me right and we run just a bit harder in the races than most ever will at HPDE's, for longer too. Big Brakes are needed when you start running for HOURS at a time, not 20-30 minute sessions. Do the things above and use cheapo rotors for some good times!
Joe
Joe
#8
Safety Car
Thread Starter
Thanks for all the tips....its hard to believe I can have even more fun...
Well I do have a lot of HPDE's under my belt with my M3..but this is a different experience
Well I do have a lot of HPDE's under my belt with my M3..but this is a different experience
#9
Burning Brakes
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For the past 2 years I ran Carbotech 12's up front, now I am on 16's.
Joe
#10
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My pads generally don't last long enough to taper at all, they just kinda disappear! When i do notice bad taper that indicates it is time for a caliper replacement, and at 110 bucks a caliper the big brake kit still looks overpriced.....
For the past 2 years I ran Carbotech 12's up front, now I am on 16's.
Joe
For the past 2 years I ran Carbotech 12's up front, now I am on 16's.
Joe