econo-trailer
#1
Pro
Thread Starter
econo-trailer
I'm thinking of this as a basic trailer for the Vette. Does anyone use this? Does the drivers door clear the fender?
It's very inexpensive, and light. I don't want to get anything to nice because I will be keeping it in a parking lot outside.
http://www.econotrailer.com/
It's very inexpensive, and light. I don't want to get anything to nice because I will be keeping it in a parking lot outside.
http://www.econotrailer.com/
#2
Safety Car
Member Since: Sep 2005
Location: Springfield MA
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St. Jude Donor '08
I'm thinking of this as a basic trailer for the Vette. Does anyone use this? Does the drivers door clear the fender?
It's very inexpensive, and light. I don't want to get anything to nice because I will be keeping it in a parking lot outside.
http://www.econotrailer.com/
It's very inexpensive, and light. I don't want to get anything to nice because I will be keeping it in a parking lot outside.
http://www.econotrailer.com/
It looks like the fenders of the trailer are welded and the doors definately will not clear them....you'll be climbing out the window...
#3
Le Mans Master
I'm thinking of this as a basic trailer for the Vette. Does anyone use this? Does the drivers door clear the fender?
It's very inexpensive, and light. I don't want to get anything to nice because I will be keeping it in a parking lot outside.
http://www.econotrailer.com/
It's very inexpensive, and light. I don't want to get anything to nice because I will be keeping it in a parking lot outside.
http://www.econotrailer.com/
#4
Racer
Member Since: Feb 2005
Location: Havre de Grace, Maryland
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I have one for my C4. It's a good trailer, however, you'll need to place a 2"x10" plank on the driver's side to raise the car enough for the door to clear the fender. I use two planks about 3' long and drive onto them. They're not bolted or fixed in any manner to the trailer and it seems to work fine. I've used this setup for the last 4 years. I tow it with a Ford Explorer with a weight distributing hitch and it's very stable.
#5
Racer
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Location: Lenexa Kansas
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It sounds better than mine (Branson Trailer Manuf w/ wood deck) and with an open steel deck, too. Deck Height? Check your ability to load without scraping the bottom. What length ramps? Stabilizers on rear, jack on front? Any room for tire rack or tool box?
Good luck.
Good luck.
#7
Instructor
Member Since: Apr 2006
Location: Lancaster Pennsylvania
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This is the exact trailer I own (econo trailer). My car ( C5 ) is lowered about a 1/2 inch and I run kumho tires on 17inch wheels. The door does clear the fender but only by 1/4 inch. I'm light (155 pounds) so I'm sure that helps the shocks not to compress. If you find the door does not quite clear just park the cars rear wheels on a small 2 x 10 plank which will raise it an inch and a half which should give you plenty of clearance.
#10
Team Owner
Definitely!! It looks like the model with brakes on both axles is only $100 more. Well worth it.
After looking at the pics of your car, I would venture that you will need longer ramps to get the car up without scraping the lower air dam. If the car is lowered, than you might have problems with scraping under the middle of the car as it moves from the ramps and over the trailer dovetail.
With the advertised 8" of fender height from the deck, you should measure the distance from the open door to the ground to see if you will need planks on the deck. Not a biggie, but beats trying to load the car the first time and finding out they are needed.
I would kinda question the 14" tires and 10" brakes. Find out what the tire size is and the load rating. 15" tires Load Range C trailer tires and 12" brakes may be better depending on how far you tow and the total weight of the car and trailer and the total weight of the tow vehicle. Brakes and tires are not an area to cheap out.
After looking at the pics of your car, I would venture that you will need longer ramps to get the car up without scraping the lower air dam. If the car is lowered, than you might have problems with scraping under the middle of the car as it moves from the ramps and over the trailer dovetail.
With the advertised 8" of fender height from the deck, you should measure the distance from the open door to the ground to see if you will need planks on the deck. Not a biggie, but beats trying to load the car the first time and finding out they are needed.
I would kinda question the 14" tires and 10" brakes. Find out what the tire size is and the load rating. 15" tires Load Range C trailer tires and 12" brakes may be better depending on how far you tow and the total weight of the car and trailer and the total weight of the tow vehicle. Brakes and tires are not an area to cheap out.
#11
Team Owner
I would kinda question the 14" tires and 10" brakes. Find out what the tire size is and the load rating. 15" tires Load Range C trailer tires and 12" brakes may be better depending on how far you tow and the total weight of the car and trailer and the total weight of the tow vehicle. Brakes and tires are not an area to cheap out.
Last edited by John Shiels; 04-24-2008 at 06:23 PM.
#12
Melting Slicks
Econo trailer is simply the BEST. I researched trailers for 12 months till I came across Econo.
My C4 doors clear no problem.
It's the lightest steel trailer out there.
It's the cheapest trailer out there.
It's the most verstile trailer out there. You can mod it anyway you like.
Beaver tail with 5' ramps. I drive right on, and my air dam scrapes a tiny bit, doesn't matter.
4 wheel brakes available.
It is completely open on the bottom, you can easily yank out a tranny.
I added at least 1000 lbs of tool boxes and tireracks, and it rides fines.
I have 15,000 miles on mine, and it's perfect. The only thing I have to do it paint it every 3-4 years.
I see people spend all sorts of money on ALUM trailers, and my Econo is far superiour.
My C4 doors clear no problem.
It's the lightest steel trailer out there.
It's the cheapest trailer out there.
It's the most verstile trailer out there. You can mod it anyway you like.
Beaver tail with 5' ramps. I drive right on, and my air dam scrapes a tiny bit, doesn't matter.
4 wheel brakes available.
It is completely open on the bottom, you can easily yank out a tranny.
I added at least 1000 lbs of tool boxes and tireracks, and it rides fines.
I have 15,000 miles on mine, and it's perfect. The only thing I have to do it paint it every 3-4 years.
I see people spend all sorts of money on ALUM trailers, and my Econo is far superiour.
#13
Le Mans Master
I have one of these, also. I bought it from a guy on eBay who had run around from the Midwest to the Mid Atlantic coast dragging a couple different Porsches on it.
My '68 clears and so does my '63. Loading is no issue as the rear is slightly dove tailed or beaver tailed.
My only issue is that IMHO and preference the axles should be located about 1 to 2 feet further back, so that the Nose of the car is not at the front of the runners or more.
However, I think the axle position may be to accommodate your own tire rack which would make the balance better.
It tows well, loads well, lights were solid, and the price was right. It isn't enclosed, but after 13 years of dragging a 24 ft enclosed, this is a breeze.
My '68 clears and so does my '63. Loading is no issue as the rear is slightly dove tailed or beaver tailed.
My only issue is that IMHO and preference the axles should be located about 1 to 2 feet further back, so that the Nose of the car is not at the front of the runners or more.
However, I think the axle position may be to accommodate your own tire rack which would make the balance better.
It tows well, loads well, lights were solid, and the price was right. It isn't enclosed, but after 13 years of dragging a 24 ft enclosed, this is a breeze.
#14
You speak like you know this.
I own an 18-foot econo-trailer, and I recommend them. I towed my C5, which was lowered all the way on stock bolts, plenty of times and many miles with it. I went from Cleveland to Atlanta and back on one trip. The doors clear the fenders with me in the car, and I weigh about 215. I have not had any problems with the trailer. I do use a 2x8 on the ground by each ramp to help the air dam clear when I load, but that's all I have to do.
They offer options for two axle brakes, like I have, and you can get a spare mounted as well.
Good luck!
#15
trailer
*****,
You saw my trailer last year at Pocono. Check out Deandetrailers.com.
They're well made, custom as you want and not too expensive.
What will you be towing with, the Escalade?
Bob
You saw my trailer last year at Pocono. Check out Deandetrailers.com.
They're well made, custom as you want and not too expensive.
What will you be towing with, the Escalade?
Bob
#17
Burning Brakes
Member Since: Dec 2007
Location: San Diego
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eh, i dont know about that. Since the trailer weighs nothing, I got brakes on one axle (all they had around at the time) and I'm fine with that.
I love mine, but my car is so low I do have to climb out the window. Mines the 16ft and the car fits like a glove...
I love mine, but my car is so low I do have to climb out the window. Mines the 16ft and the car fits like a glove...
#18
Le Mans Master
My 1 ton pickup can stop with the car on the trailer and no trailer brakes, but most SUVs are over the braking limits with the trailer. So the more brakes you have on the trailer, the better.
In some states, no trailer brakes are required. Some states require them on one axle while others say trailer brakes required, not specifying the number of axles. This really means on all axles. To be legal anywhere you tow, get all both axle brakes.
One thing to be sure, the brakes on the trailer should be on the FRONT axle if only on one. Most put them on the REAR axle. In the event the trailer breaks away, the rear axle becomes much less effective at stopping due to the angle and the weight loading on the front axle, even though they all have the load equalizer on the springs. Some trailers will actually lift the rear off the ground if the tongue is on the ground.
Set the tongue on the ground and see how the rear tires make contact if you don't believe it.
In some states, no trailer brakes are required. Some states require them on one axle while others say trailer brakes required, not specifying the number of axles. This really means on all axles. To be legal anywhere you tow, get all both axle brakes.
One thing to be sure, the brakes on the trailer should be on the FRONT axle if only on one. Most put them on the REAR axle. In the event the trailer breaks away, the rear axle becomes much less effective at stopping due to the angle and the weight loading on the front axle, even though they all have the load equalizer on the springs. Some trailers will actually lift the rear off the ground if the tongue is on the ground.
Set the tongue on the ground and see how the rear tires make contact if you don't believe it.
#19
Burning Brakes
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St. Jude Donor '10-'11
I was looking at the econo-trailer; ended up popping for a 18' bri-mar
Wanted removable fender.
Can't remember if the econo-trailer has dexter axles, but I wanted them ... have ez lube hubs (grease fittings).
Wanted removable fender.
Can't remember if the econo-trailer has dexter axles, but I wanted them ... have ez lube hubs (grease fittings).
Last edited by MungoZ06; 04-25-2008 at 04:00 PM. Reason: updated comment
#20
Pro
Thread Starter
Deck should be 15 foot. I will tow with an GMC Envoy Denali. I tried a Uhaul but had to climb out of the window, which is not my style.
I will borrow my buddies Brimar for the Glen Next week but looks like the econ trailer will be my choice. I have to wait a few weeks for the Econo for them to deliver. They told me from the deck to the fender is 8"..
If I don't have the room I'll use the 2'x6 Method under the wheels.
Thanks for all the help.