sperkins

Although I love driving the vette to and from the track, I really want to pick up a trailer to haul her there instead. My budget does not allow for an enclosed trailer or any other super nice setup.
I'm thinking about an 18' solid steel decking, dual axle, open trailer with removable fenders and brake away brakes. I don't want to get one and figure out a year from now that I should have bought something else. What are you guy using and why?
Thanks in advance.
Perk

thehammer69

Down-2-earth trailers in Baxley, Ga should have what you need. These are the same trailers sold by Sweet River Farms that I and a Cobra are using.

varkwso

Sounds like you have the criteria down that you need. There are many out there and used ones save you some good money....

John Shiels

search trailer here you will find tons of reading.

TedDBere

Buy what you want. The price of steel is not going down so in a few years when you outgrow the open trailer you'll be able to sell it for close to what you paid for it in the first place. Lots of people like you want to buy a used open trailer! IMHO.

97C5inSD

I have a Texas Roll Back that i put a tool box on the front to store my tools and i will be installing a tire rack on top of that this summer. Granted with the way gas prices are going i'm gona be driving my car more with a trailer in toe vs hauling the car

beerkat

Yes I know that you said steel, but if you an go aluminum you will be better off in the long run. Lighter weight better fuel economy. JMO

PaConehead

I'd recommend dual axle brakes. If you can't find a trailer with removeable fenders, you may be able to put a 2x6 or 2x8 down for the front wheels - that may give the clearance for the driver's door. I'm using a 16ft open w/ blocks and it works great - although at timrs I wish I had the 18'. Good luck!

racerbob4

the solid steel deck will weight a lot more than a trailer with 2 steel runners. That also lets you do minor work under the car if needed. I think all trailers with electric brakes required a battery operated emergency brake system. On our last open trailer we bought a diamond plate aluminum box that we put in things that we might need at the track and didnt want to have to pack everytime we went to the track. Ours was large enough for a couple of cargo boxes for parts, oil, brake clean, and other stuff. We also used to strap on canopy poles for our track canopy. When you look for your trailer be sure to get very long ramps and also what they call a beaver tail so its easier to get your car off and on it.

C66 Racing

Perk,
I have an 18' Bri-mar open air trailer with a tire rack and tool box on the front that is basically exactly what you are looking for; dual 3500# axles with brakes on each, both fendors swivel forward, no center section (saves a little weight). Very happy with it.

I bought it for about the same reasons as you, cost and weight (as compared to a 24+ ft enclosed trailer). When I bought it my tow vehicle was a Dodge Durango. After using the Durango for about half a season, I decided that even with the open air trailer, the load was too heavy (though within the Durango's tow capacity) and I upgraded to an F350 with the 6.0L turbo diesel. After towing with a turbo diesel I'll never go back.

I still have the 18' Bri-mar and have been very satisified with it over the years. Actually used it again this winter when I popped across the country and back to pick up my essentially new Vette from Phoenix Performance.

However, I used the year plus that I sat on the sidelines to upgrade to a 28' enclosed Timberwolf (bought used from fellow T1 racer David Pintaric) and to upgrade to a new GMC Sierra dually 3500 HD.

You can find plenty of 18' trailers out there that meet your needs. Good luck!

FasterIsBetter

IMHO, if you can find a good used aluminum trailer, that's the way to go. I had a steel trailer and it was good, but when I happened upon a deal on an open aluminum trailer, I sold the steel one. The aluminum trailer is about 1200 lbs lighter than my old steel one, and I can see the difference in handling and gas mileage. Mine is a Trailex. Very well made, dual axle brakes, tire rack, the whole bit. Absolutely great trailer.

If you do go with steel, I'd recommend an open deck, not closed. First, the open deck is going to be a lot lighter. Plus, when you're out at the track should you need to work under the car for any reason, you can use the open trailer like a lift. Been there, done that.



p.s. The Trailex trailers are not outrageously expensive new. You might want to check their website. It will definitely cost more than a steel trailer, but with gas at $4/gal., the weight savings will pay for itself over time.

sperkins

Great information so far guys. Thanks.

urslooow

How many of those options on the new Aluminum trailers are highly reccommended? like the Warn (what is a warn winch vs the other one for $368?) winch for $669? tire rack? diamond floor-$360? welded vs bolted? thanks (I was getting these prices from the trailex website)

gilly6993

get a trailer with a dovetail.....

FasterIsBetter

I have no idea what the Warn winch is. I picked one up from Harbor Freight for about $100, portable, something like 9K load capacity.

If you take a spare set of tires to the track, the tire rack is well worth it. I have one on mine, and a friend has one on his Trailex. Solid, easy to use rack, bolts right up to the trailer. If you prefer to lug them in your SUV, then you don't need the rack.

Diamond plate flooring covers the center, IIRC. I prefer open center. No reason for diamond plate, even on the wheel panels. I don't have it, and never have a problem even when it's wet.

As for bolted vs. welded, my trailer is bolted, and it is solid as can be. I'd just stick with bolted, IMHO.

yakisoba

I have one, and only one piece of open trailer advice:

To clear the fenders with the drivers side door, put down a piece of wood, 2x12, under the driver's side tires only. If you use just one side like that, you create a favorable angle for the driver's door (it swings slightly up rather than just out) and will clear the fender at near stock ride height. If you put wood under both sides, you will have to raise the vehicle higher and spend more on wood. You don't have to have trick fenders in most cases.

This is not my trick; I learned it from another guy that tows corvettes.