psd_bullitt

The rear monospring on my 96 LT4 daily driver has fractures and is splitting. That is causing the right rear wheel to tilt inward at the top.

I need to replace it ASAP but want suggestions. I've started to road race at HPDE events and I plan to upgrade all the bushings to polyurethane while I have the wheels off and working underneath. Any suggestions on the bushings – I’ve heard that the VBP brand don't squeak as much as the other brands, true or not????


Should I up upgrade the monospring to the VBP Sport version since it is the same price as the standard replacement for $299? Is there a better brand or another option that is still economical yet provides better handling for a daily driven occasional track car?

I've been contemplating replacing the Edlebrock shocks with adjustable QA1s. Is this the time to consider Coilovers? Does the Monospring go away with the coilovers in the rear????

I need to do more homework on my long range plans but need to act quickly on the monospring replacement. As you may be able to tell I'm not an expert and have limited cash flow so I don't want to spend money on parts that I'll be taking off again in 6 months to upgrade to the next level.

Thanks for any suggestions,
Dave

John Shiels

VBP stuff is good depending on the mix of street or track you may want to go heavier on the springs than their standard offerings. Occasional track I would go real stiff.

RickF

I was in the exact same situation when I bought my 94. I went with the standard rear spring as the forum majority said the car would oversteer with the stiffer sport spring. I have the base suspension. I wish I would have went with the sport spring. As the car is your daily driver you may not want beyond that although I have no first hand knowledge of VBPs other rear springs.

I have the VBP poly bushings throughout with no complaints. No squeaking although the car is not my daily driver; mainly HPDEs and very light weekend use. I used synthetic marine grease on everything. The bushing job is quite a bit of work but can be done. Since the car is your daily driver you may want to do it in stages. The spring is easy.

Good luck. They are great cheap cars to HPDE. The LT4 should be even better.

Aardwolf

If it were me, I would put in a cheap used spring of the same type. Then use the left over money to put in larger sway bars.

jwt1603

You might want to talk to Paul at Van Steel before you decide. After talking (for a long time) about what I wanted to do with the car he set me up with their springs and bearings and the service is great.

FWIW, I've had "issues" with VBP lately. No more details but I won't buy from them again.

psd_bullitt

Okay, well I just ordered a Hyperco Z51 rear composite monospring and a complete set of front and rear poly bushings from Paul at Van Steel www.vansteel.com

He was very helpful and we talked a real long time. With his help I've set up my longer term suspension upgrade plan. I only wish I could afford to do it all in one jump. He walked me through the process and explained when certain items would be needed and why. He clearly explained that certain items like the larger sway bar and camber rods etc would only benefit my driving conditions and performance after I was able to upgrade other parts like dedicated track wheels and tires. He explained that the more advanced suspension stuff I was considering wouldn't help and may actually hurt traction on street tires.

Since this is also my daily driver we discussed the compromises I'll have to make between track performance and daily driving comfort.

Once I get more seat time on the track I'll be calling him again to add other upgrades!!

Thanks for everyones ideas.

Aardwolf

Sway bars really make a nice difference. Doesn't matter where you drive or what wheel you have. Odd.

psd_bullitt

I may not be explaining it as well as he did. Basically I think what he was saying is that the cost benefit of the upgraded sway bar for my daily driven / occasional track event car wasn't worth it until I get the sticky tires.

He was saying that most track surfaces aren't smooth like a table top and the street tires don't have the ability to handle the weight transfer via traction to the ground that the upgraded suspension parts will ask of them. I don't recall the exact termonology he used but it had to do with coming out of the corners near the limit of the tires and feeling a shutter or skating of the tires. A more flexible suspension might actually allow the street tires to maintain better traction is those cases.

He said sticky tires should be my next upgrade and then I can go to other mods once my own driving performance improved.

He recomended a progressive upgrade process instead of blowing a wad of cash up front before my ability was ready for them. I trust him to be correct - he could have made more $$ now - instead he now has a long term customer.

My instructor from The Drivers Edge said the same thing. He actually contends that young drivers who jump straight into new C6 Z06s don't improve in ability as quickly because the cars are so good that their mistakes are covered up and they don't progress in the same manner.

I guess starting in a C4 will be to my advantage when at some point I win the lotto and buy that new ZR1 in a few years!!

rfn026

Soft springs and big sway bars are the way to go. On the other hand it takes more skill to drive a car with soft springs. A car with very stiff springs will feel very fast and be easier to drive - but it will be slower.

You also need shocks with some really huge rebound numbers. That will keep your rear tires planted under braking and acceleration.

Richard Newton

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Autocross Performance Handbook