wmk32

Just wanted to get some of you experts best method of achieving confidence inspiring stopping power on a C6. I'm only on track day 4 or 5 but clearly this is going to become a 20 or so day a year hobby so i'm going to expect more out of my brakes.

Currently using the stock base brake system with hawk hp+ pads. Upgrade to a Z-51 brake setup? Just upgrade the pads to different compound? Upgrade rotors?

At this point i'd prefer to spend my money on "modding the driver" so that eliminates any big brake kits requiring different wheels. I'll be upgrading to a c6z at some point also so another reason to not go overboard with making changes to the current car. Thanks for any help, opinions, nasty comments, etc.

John Shiels

First thing is better pads second because of the heat they generate is DRM brake ducts and LGM spindle ducts to cool the brakes. Better fluid like SRF. That is the starting point. You can also upgreade with a BBK.

AU N EGL

Better brake pads:

Carbotech XP12F and XP10 r
Wilwood H
PFC-01s or 05s
Hawk DTC-70 or DTC-60s



DOT 4 brake fluid:
Motul
ATE Super Blue
Castrol SRF

Brake Cooling:

DRM cooling ducts

NAPA rotors:

86700
86701
86702
86703

davidfarmer

I agree with above, slightly better pads IF you are willing to put ducts on to cool them. Without proper cooling the hotter pads will just melt away.

I'm with you on "improving the driver". You need to concentrate on only braking when you need to, avoid "tapping" the pedal for confidence unless you really really need it, condense braking zones into a solid deceleration.

At a track like VIR, I'm constantly seeing people "tap" the brakes going into the uphill S's, and most cars don't need to (just breath off momentarily). Similarly, at the end of the long straight, it is amazing how many people brake doing down the hill, accelerate back up the other side, then brake again right at 14. The best way to do it (for your brakes) is to brake just before the bottom of the hill, and brake solidly until you turn.

Anyway, the point is, use the straights to COOL your brakes, so you can heat them back up when you really need them.

Dave

wmk32

Thanks guys. I'll probably go the route of better pads and cooling ( already use dot 4 ) and that should carry me through quite a few events before I need to worry about anything additional, if that time even comes that i do need something bigger.

Most of the time I think the current setup is adequate but each time i'm coming into turn 7 at Sebring I feel like I could use a little bit more bite in the brakes department.

wmk32

I'm trying to remain pretty focused on avoiding any unnecessary tapping and seem to be progressing in that department. These several week breaks between track days are just brutal. I guess that means i'm going to become an addict.

TorontoC6

I agree on the pads and fluid. I have a Z-51 and on LG's recommendation, am using the Cobalt XR2 pad and SRF fluid. I have run two days at the track and the brakes are very strong. I have also had compliments from others as to my enhanced braking ability. These pads feel like you are going through the windshield....

This is a logical first step and should be taken before doing a big brake upgrade.

I have also run the HP+ which is more of a high performance street pad than a true race pad. Those pads also dust more than the XR2's.

The only caveat, is that I change pads out when not racing. The XR2's are not made for the street (they squeal and will wear your rotors down). The change only takes just over an hour and it gives you a chance to bleed the brakes (motive power bleeders are a wise and cheap investment).

AU N EGL

That is what happens. For 99.9% ppl there is no pad that can do double duty for street and any sort of track driving.

Wayne O

I don't claim to be any expert and I plan on upgrading my own brakes over the summer.

With my stock C6 brakes I've changed to Motul 600 fluid, I use Performance Friction C5 Z-compound pads and I've installed stainless steel brake lines. I intially changed my own brake fluid but I finally went to the dealership so they could use their Tech II to exercise the ABS circuits to completely purge the system. More effective after-market brake ducts would help greatly too. You might check LGM or Doug Rippey has a decent selection of brake upgrade items.

I found just doing these simple things helped quite a bit. My brakes work fairly well on a track.

wmk32

I change out the HP+ after the track while although they work fine without having to be heated up too much, they squeal louder than a stuck pig no matter what.