Another C4 dry sump lives!
#1
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Member Since: Dec 1999
Location: Austin, TX
Posts: 2,813
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Another C4 dry sump lives!
I'm finally *mostly* done with my project. See the following link for details and some pics on the motor in C4 tech:
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=2068087
Along with my new motor build I got the bright idea -- largely generated here -- to do a dry sump. Do I absolutely NEED a dry sump for a street / HPDE car? Of course not! It was one of those things that seemed like a cool thing to do and a good hotrodding challenge. It definitely was.
My criteria was that I wanted to retain all of the factory accessories (AC, cruise, etc) since it is a street car also. I also didn't want to have to hack up the frame or body. I did have to slightly modify the driver side inner fender slightly to clear the oil return line to the tank, but otherwise it was just some creative fabrication.
I haven't taken it to the track yet of course since I just finished breaking in the clutch and getting it tuned. The dry sump has worked flawlessly on the street and dyno so far, though. I'll be changing out the dino oil for synthetic and adjusting the pressure spring soon -- along with tightening some weeping AN fittings.
Anyway, I wanted to say thanks to all those who (knowingly or not) helped me with information on the project!
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=2068087
Along with my new motor build I got the bright idea -- largely generated here -- to do a dry sump. Do I absolutely NEED a dry sump for a street / HPDE car? Of course not! It was one of those things that seemed like a cool thing to do and a good hotrodding challenge. It definitely was.
My criteria was that I wanted to retain all of the factory accessories (AC, cruise, etc) since it is a street car also. I also didn't want to have to hack up the frame or body. I did have to slightly modify the driver side inner fender slightly to clear the oil return line to the tank, but otherwise it was just some creative fabrication.
I haven't taken it to the track yet of course since I just finished breaking in the clutch and getting it tuned. The dry sump has worked flawlessly on the street and dyno so far, though. I'll be changing out the dino oil for synthetic and adjusting the pressure spring soon -- along with tightening some weeping AN fittings.
Anyway, I wanted to say thanks to all those who (knowingly or not) helped me with information on the project!
#2
Burning Brakes
Member Since: Apr 2004
Location: Stanfield NC
Posts: 792
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
You will absolutely LOVE it on track. I did this upgrade about two years ago and all the oil problems have gone away. I have never seen oil temps above 180 on track and that is running the snot out of it in August at Road Atlanta-115 degrees in the shade in the pits. Nice installation. Enjoy.
#3
Team Owner
Member Since: Mar 2001
Location: Boston, Dallas, Detroit, SoCal, back to Boston MA
Posts: 30,607
Received 239 Likes
on
167 Posts
Nicely done!
You even got it down with the pump down low.
Most drysumps I've seen in C4's mount it up high.
Your going to love the reasurance on those off camber turns at Road America.
You even got it down with the pump down low.
Most drysumps I've seen in C4's mount it up high.
Your going to love the reasurance on those off camber turns at Road America.
#5
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Member Since: Dec 1999
Location: Austin, TX
Posts: 2,813
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Thanks guys.
Wndopdlr, you're one of the ones whos name I was cursing while I was trying to finish the project
The tank itself holds just under 2.5 gallons. Total system capacity is 2.5 gallons leaving about .5 gallons empty space in the tank due to oil in the motor, lines, cooler, filter.
I started with a used coleman tank and kept those baffels. They're just perforated sheet metal disks (two of them) that sit horizontally in the tank. One right at oil level, another submerged a few inches. I also fabbed up a baffle above the tank 'out' connection to ensure there was no whirlpool effect. I'll post some pics later of the inside and outside of the tank pre-install.
There really wasn't much space to work with given that I didn't want to remove anything. For my purposes, though, it's plenty of oil.
Wndopdlr, you're one of the ones whos name I was cursing while I was trying to finish the project
The tank itself holds just under 2.5 gallons. Total system capacity is 2.5 gallons leaving about .5 gallons empty space in the tank due to oil in the motor, lines, cooler, filter.
I started with a used coleman tank and kept those baffels. They're just perforated sheet metal disks (two of them) that sit horizontally in the tank. One right at oil level, another submerged a few inches. I also fabbed up a baffle above the tank 'out' connection to ensure there was no whirlpool effect. I'll post some pics later of the inside and outside of the tank pre-install.
There really wasn't much space to work with given that I didn't want to remove anything. For my purposes, though, it's plenty of oil.
Last edited by MarkBychowski; 07-02-2008 at 01:16 PM.
#6
Burning Brakes
Member Since: Apr 2004
Location: Stanfield NC
Posts: 792
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
[QUOTE=MarkBychowski;1566144461]Thanks guys.
Wndopdlr, you're one of the ones whos name I was cursing while I was trying to finish the project
And I thought the ringing in my ears was just old age
Wndopdlr, you're one of the ones whos name I was cursing while I was trying to finish the project
And I thought the ringing in my ears was just old age