JSTAN

I am going to be putting on some spindle ducts.

Does anyone know what size torx bit I need to remove the hubs?

Thanks

ghoffman

It is a T-55. We have a bolt kit that replaces the Torx fasteners with US made 12 point head grade 12.9's with Nordlocks for $30 a corner. It is a big advantage over the OE bolts because you can actually get the torque into the bolt, rather than the way the OE Torx bolts lock up under the head of the bolt on the raw aluminum spindle. It has a side advantage in that you can actually check the torque while it is on the car. The kit also includes a new nyloc nut and hardened washer for the lower ball joint as well.





http://hardbarusa.com/hardbar/produc...roducts_id=115

JSTAN

Thanks for the info.

ScaryFast

Hey Gary, why can't you just use standard head bolts for this application? I know they make hex head, socket head, etc. in 12.9. Is there a specific reason?

ghoffman

You could use socket head, but hex won't fit in the counterbore on the bottom. I prefer 12 point to socket head because it doesn't fill with dirt that can hinder the tool fitting correctly. Also, with a Torx or socket head, you have to separate the lower ball joint to even check it. The 12 point uses standard sockets or box end wrenches too.

drbenne

would definitely recommend to check those bolts regularly if you are doing any "hard" driving. I always check the play in each corner between runs and the last race at Calif spdwy, my right front had more play than usual. I checked the hub bolts and 2 were loose. Could have been a disaster at 155+. It is not that difficult to separate the ball joint to get to the lower bolt, but the Nordlocks would decrease the probability that they will loosen.