Starting engine after cooler install
#1
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Starting engine after cooler install
I just installed the Dewitt's rad with EOC and was wondering if it would be a good idea to pull the ignition fuse and spin the engine to get oil in the lines before starting it. Any input would be appreciated.
#2
Safety Car
just don't run the starter too long at a time crank for 10-20 sec then let it cool down a bit do it again till you see oil pressure on the gauge
#3
Race Director
I personally think you are doing the same amount of damage dry running it with the starter, as you would dry running it with combustion. I'd just fire it up, and if you don't have pressure within 10seconds......pray!
Ideally, I'd pressurize the system with an external pump or accusump before turning it over at all.
Ideally, I'd pressurize the system with an external pump or accusump before turning it over at all.
#4
Safety Car
I personally think you are doing the same amount of damage dry running it with the starter, as you would dry running it with combustion. I'd just fire it up, and if you don't have pressure within 10seconds......pray!
Ideally, I'd pressurize the system with an external pump or accusump before turning it over at all.
Ideally, I'd pressurize the system with an external pump or accusump before turning it over at all.
#5
Tech Contributor
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Engines can run a pretty long time at idle with no oil. The coating left on the bearing surface protects them and there isn't sufficient power to hurt the bearings. Every time you change your oil you will have this problem as the oil lines will drain completely when you drain the oil. At least mine do as I have a remote oil filter which is at the lowest point in the lines.
Bill
Bill
#6
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start the engine watch the oil pressure gauge. after 10 seconds if there is no pressure turn it off. wait 5 minutes then repeat. i read this somewhere and i used it on my vette. 5 track days since so it must have worked. only took two starts for it to work for me
#7
Melting Slicks
how about pulling the injector wires so it doesn't get fuel ?? or fuel pump fuse.... and just crank it until pressure builds... so no stress on the motor, except the compression stroke.
#9
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There's some loading, but the torsionals aren't there.
We used to run engines at Lycoming on a motoring rig, to test the accessory case out, no fire, there's still a load, but it's not the same.
That's the better way of doing it, so your not filling the cylinders up with fuel, especially if it's a new engine, the fuel can wash the rings out.
The accusump is a better idea.
I wish a still had a distributor hole on my LT1 intake, the old trick was to yank it and still the oil pump with a drill.
Gary primes his GT1 car by taking the belt off the pump and spinning it with a drill.
You can also get an electric pump and hook it up just to get it filled up.
This is for a transmission or differential, I used it on a test rig.
Good enough to prime an engine, just don't get any crazy ideas about running it with it.
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku
We used to run engines at Lycoming on a motoring rig, to test the accessory case out, no fire, there's still a load, but it's not the same.
The accusump is a better idea.
I wish a still had a distributor hole on my LT1 intake, the old trick was to yank it and still the oil pump with a drill.
Gary primes his GT1 car by taking the belt off the pump and spinning it with a drill.
You can also get an electric pump and hook it up just to get it filled up.
This is for a transmission or differential, I used it on a test rig.
Good enough to prime an engine, just don't get any crazy ideas about running it with it.
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku