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Old 07-25-2008, 11:44 AM
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spazegun2213
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Default headgasket problems

So, at the last track event I managed to shred my belt in T1 at summit point. I limped the car back to the pits but after that session the car started consuming coolant. I'm running water/waterwetter so its not a huge problem to refill but its not coming out the bottom of the car, and the car will idle just fine at ~195. Only when I'm really pushing the car will it start consuming coolant and after i hit 230 I'd bring it in with a "low coolant" light.

So, how common is it to blow head gaskets? The car was at 260+ for a good several minutes... and since its not coming out the bottom of the car, I'm thinking its a HG.

I've been talking to people about it, and is there any way to be 100% sure its a HG before tearing into the car?

Last edited by spazegun2213; 07-25-2008 at 11:54 AM.
Old 07-25-2008, 12:01 PM
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davidfarmer
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There is no way to tell exactly how hot the engine got, as without the pump running, the water is sitting still. So even thought the water near the sensor was 260, who knows how hot other parts of the engine got.

There are tests that you can do, will check for hydrocarbons in your coolant. Also, you can look for coolant in your oil. If your luck, it is just a head gasket, but I personally don't know if there is a way to know if that is the extent of the damage. Could have even damaged a cylinder head.....
Old 07-25-2008, 12:05 PM
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spazegun2213
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Originally Posted by davidfarmer
There is no way to tell exactly how hot the engine got, as without the pump running, the water is sitting still. So even thought the water near the sensor was 260, who knows how hot other parts of the engine got.

There are tests that you can do, will check for hydrocarbons in your coolant. Also, you can look for coolant in your oil. If your luck, it is just a head gasket, but I personally don't know if there is a way to know if that is the extent of the damage. Could have even damaged a cylinder head.....
I'm almost tempted to replace the HG's and take the heads to a shop to see.... but I wanted to ask the experts. I know Alu heads dont like that much heat...
Old 07-25-2008, 12:20 PM
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AlwaysInBoost
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I just went threw a leaking HG on my car. There are a couple ways to tell if it is infact the HG.

you can pressurize the cooling system to 15psi MAX and listen for where its bleeding off. If the system is sealed there should be no bleed off.

you can also have the oil analyized by a lab like Blackstone for a small fee (usually less then $20), that can tell you A LOT about whats going on with your motor. High levels of potasium are a dead give away.

are you leaking anything out the resivior at all?

for me it was only when I shut the car down. there was a breech in the gasket around the number 7 cylinder that would seep into the combustion chamber. then the following day when I would start the car I could smell the coolant being burned off in the exhaust. The reason I believe I had any probelms in the first place is because the shop that put the car together for the previous owner used the wrong sized HG for my cylinder heads. I'm running 4.10" diameter and they used a 3.90" bore gasket.

head gaskets are a breeze on these cars, no overhead cams or timing chains to worry about. Just make sure if you do replace them you that you get some head studs instead of the stock TTY bolts.
Old 07-25-2008, 12:23 PM
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spazegun2213
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Originally Posted by AlwaysInBoost
I just went threw a leaking HG on my car. There are a couple ways to tell if it is infact the HG.

you can pressurize the cooling system to 15psi MAX and listen for where its bleeding off. If the system is sealed there should be no bleed off.

you can also have the oil analyized by a lab like Blackstone for a small fee (usually less then $20), that can tell you A LOT about whats going on with your motor. High levels of potasium are a dead give away.

are you leaking anything out the resivior at all?

for me it was only when I shut the car down. there was a breech in the gasket around the number 7 cylinder that would seep into the combustion chamber. then the following day when I would start the car I could smell the coolant being burned off in the exhaust. The reason I believe I had any probelms in the first place is because the shop that put the car together for the previous owner used the wrong sized HG for my cylinder heads. I'm running 4.10" diameter and they used a 3.90" bore gasket.

head gaskets are a breeze on these cars, no overhead cams or timing chains to worry about. Just make sure if you do replace them you that you get some head studs instead of the stock TTY bolts.
I wonder if 15PSI is enough to uncover the leak. I let the car idle for 20+ minutes the the coolant lever was fine... but under load (chasing wallyman 24 ) it started to disappear.

I might also get the oil analyzed, but If they are that easy to replace, i may as well.
Old 07-25-2008, 01:23 PM
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AlwaysInBoost
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15psi "should" be enough to uncover a leak, the cooling system operates around that pressure... I think 18psi is the max it will reach until the cap on the resivior releases pressure for you.

unless you are detonating, and lifting your heads, that is a pretty good way to diagnose a HG. If you were detonating you should check your plugs for signs of it.
Old 07-25-2008, 11:30 PM
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fatbillybob
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2 tests:

1) coolant system pressure test

2) cylinderhead leak down test

Both are very standard tests you can do at home as cheaply as buying cheapo chinese "harbor freight and tool" testor units.
Old 07-26-2008, 07:51 AM
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Timz06
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One thing is for sure, if you have a blown head gasket it will get worse quickly under track conditions. You will soon see coolant in your oil. If you ran the car for any amount of time with 260 water temps, I would think a blown gasket likely. Try the tests mentioned. Also, water vapor will accumulate in the highest places in the motor, (oil fill cap, valve covers etc.) since steam goes up. Look carefully in these places for any water.

Tim
Old 07-26-2008, 11:31 AM
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Originally Posted by fatbillybob
2 tests:

1) coolant system pressure test

2) cylinderhead leak down test

Both are very standard tests you can do at home as cheaply
as buying cheapo chinese "harbor freight and tool" testor units.
Test option #3 - LISLE 75500 - COMBUSTION LEAK DETECTOR

.

Buy the kit for < $30 and hold the sniffer over the radiator neck
yourself. Or visit a shop that uses this equipment and have them
perform the test.

Engine vacuum (or a hand vacuum pump like a Mityvac) pulls
vapor from above the filler neck into the test cylinder where
it reacts with the blue Lisle test fluid. If the fluid colour changes
from blue to green, combustion gas in the coolant is indicated.

The Lisle test confirmed gas in the coolant after an OTC #7991
"Universal Cooling System Pressure Tester" indicated that the
system continued to hold pressure.

Blackstone may be able to test for combustion gas residue in the
coolant, but as I recall, the lab I use for oil sampling advised they
do not have this capability.

.

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