Rear Lower Ball Joint Boot Replacement - DIY How To???
#1
Safety Car
Thread Starter
Rear Lower Ball Joint Boot Replacement - DIY How To???
Anybody have a write up on the easiest way to get the rear lower ball joint boot off to replace the boot? Mine is ripped/melted. I'm not sure what has to be removed to get at it or the sequence.
I will be wrapping the new one.....
Help would be much appreciated.
Rick
I will be wrapping the new one.....
Help would be much appreciated.
Rick
#2
Race Director
you have to disconnect the joint, then remove the metal clip that goes around the base of the boot. You can't buy new boots from GM.
http://www.davidfarmerstuff.com/boots.txt
this text file lists close-to-OEM size boots that should work for you.
btw, I often just repack the old ones, and rotate the melted side AWAY from the rotors. If you then wrap them with thermal tape/wrap anyway, the grease will likely stay in just fine.
http://www.davidfarmerstuff.com/boots.txt
this text file lists close-to-OEM size boots that should work for you.
btw, I often just repack the old ones, and rotate the melted side AWAY from the rotors. If you then wrap them with thermal tape/wrap anyway, the grease will likely stay in just fine.
#3
Race Director
you have to disconnect the joint, then remove the metal clip that goes around the base of the boot. You can't buy new boots from GM.
http://www.davidfarmerstuff.com/boots.txt
this text file lists close-to-OEM size boots that should work for you.
btw, I often just repack the old ones, and rotate the melted side AWAY from the rotors. If you then wrap them with thermal tape/wrap anyway, the grease will likely stay in just fine.
http://www.davidfarmerstuff.com/boots.txt
this text file lists close-to-OEM size boots that should work for you.
btw, I often just repack the old ones, and rotate the melted side AWAY from the rotors. If you then wrap them with thermal tape/wrap anyway, the grease will likely stay in just fine.
What exactly do you wrap with & where to get some? Thanks.
#4
Safety Car
Thread Starter
you have to disconnect the joint, then remove the metal clip that goes around the base of the boot. You can't buy new boots from GM.
http://www.davidfarmerstuff.com/boots.txt
this text file lists close-to-OEM size boots that should work for you.
btw, I often just repack the old ones, and rotate the melted side AWAY from the rotors. If you then wrap them with thermal tape/wrap anyway, the grease will likely stay in just fine.
http://www.davidfarmerstuff.com/boots.txt
this text file lists close-to-OEM size boots that should work for you.
btw, I often just repack the old ones, and rotate the melted side AWAY from the rotors. If you then wrap them with thermal tape/wrap anyway, the grease will likely stay in just fine.
I already have an aftremarket replacement boot. What I'm wondering is what is required to get the arm to drop enough to get the old boot off and new one on. Do you need to drop the spring, sway bar, shock, etc? Or can I just take the lower control arm nut off, jack up the spring to relieve tension and hammer away or use a pickle fork?
Rick
#5
Safety Car
I didn't remove the metal clip, I just cut off the old boot with a razor blade. The Energy Suspension C4 boots fit just fine and are holding the grease in great.
#7
Safety Car
I didn't see one to remove, but I was believing Farmer... so I used snips and a razor blade and then just shoved the Energy Suspension boot filled with grease on and bolted it all back together...