hemipanter

The chassis of the Nordic Supercar Corvette is now finished. I shot a few images the other day before the engine and gearbox was installed.
The team was happy to get a good sponsor and they want the chassis to be shown on an exhibition the 29-30 of this month. I am quite busy myself as I am showing my Hemipanter at another big sportscar meeting the same weekend. If there is some time left I should shoot some more images with the engine installed.




There are even more images on my site http://www.hemipanter.se/ click "Corvette Nordic Supercar".
It is a big job for a small team to handle such project, so the time schedule is off by some 6 month or so. Well, if the car is to be competitive against those Oreca Vipers we better do a good job with this car.
The weight is 960Kg (2112p) so it has to be up weighted by some 300p.
As the CGH already is down at 14" we will be even better of then.
Goran

bb69

Goran,
It looks great. Can you post some pictures showing how the radiator is mounted, and also the harnesses? I am working on those right now, and I could use some advice and ideas. Is the 2112 lb weight with everything in the car?

Thanks
Ken

burners

That's looking really good. Nice work. Thanks for the update. What are you setting your roll centers at? How much suspension travel have you designed (in bump)?

bowmanized

Hey nice tires Goran

Two thousand pounds? That's not even fair.

What kind of shocks are you running?

John Shiels

Looks great keep posting progress pictures.

Lan.Jet

Nice!

L98Terror

Sweet!!

mikahb

Beatiful work!!! Thanks for sharing, I always enjoy reading through your site!

hemipanter

Thanks for all nice comment!

Ken,
as soon as the radiator is in position I should shoot an image, but I am not sure that the radiator will be in place to the sports car exhibition.
The radiator position and outlet airflow is working together with the front diffusers outlet that emerge thought the side tunnels of the car. So this must be looked at as a "whole".
There are special guys handling the harnesses work on the car but I am happy to share info as soon as it is installed.
The 2112p is without driver, gas and other fluids. But there will still be room for positioning weights at helpful positions on the chassis.

Burners,
the roll centre is close to ground level. It depends a little on adjustments of the car. The inner A-arm joints are shims adjustable in height as you can see on the images, to be able to set ride height without affecting Rc position. Or, if the geometric weight transfer needs adjustment. This car is a little of an experiment using the "Zerocar" construction philosophy of mine, so the Rc position is slightly different from common "standard" which in this case means almost horizontal (for a starter).
Bump travel is 1" and extension will be about the same since the car is sprung to 4Hz.

Bowmanized,
I am using Ohlins shocks as the factory is in the neighborhood and I am getting helpful assistance.

Goran

BrianCunningham

Looks great, I especially like the shock mounts.

I can see why you want the back sealed off, but will you be adding a window?

hemipanter

Brian,
I am not sure what is going to happen with the rear view. Beside triangulation, this was an easy way of fixing the fire protection rules, as the tank and oil reservoir is behind the driver. We are having a discussion with the rule folks.

Nice that you spotted this. I really have been paying attention to the shock mountings. There are one tube each side of the coilovers and the bottom mount is diagonally supported for the best torsional stability.
Goran

hemipanter

The car (Chassis) is to be at an exhibition this weekend, but we did have a few fibre glass components on it as well as the engine mounted.
Really nice that it starts looking like a car. The team really need this for inspiration.


Regards
Goran

burners

Goran, your image isn't showing. It's just flashing "error". Can you fix it? I wanna seeeee.

hemipanter

Ahhh, the "Flashing error bandit strikes again"!
Lets see if this helps, Ill change the server to my own "hemipanter" server for the images.


I see the car is a little high, it should be adjusted for corect ride height later on.
Goran Malmberg

burners

Ohh yeah, now you're talkin'. That's looking pretty cool. Is the floor completely flat? How far forward are you starting your rear diffuser?

hemipanter

The underside is something special. Well, I don’t know how special, it is probably done elsewhere to. The rear diffuser is starting at the rear of the cockpit. It is supposed to be made in 3 sections length wise. And each section is adjustable, both to expansion and curvature. As you probably already have seen, the car has a big air outlet each side. This is for the front diffuser. This is also in tree sections where the middle part could be closed to make the flat bottom part become one with the splitter, leaving for one front diffuser each side. That way we can balance the down force. There are even more to it, but I should leave this until we have been testing it out.
Goran

0Randy@DRM

Are those GM wheel bearings??? We have measured 3/8 of a inch of deflection at the top of a tire, hot running big slicks.

Randy

hemipanter

Front are C6 and rear C4.
Flexing!? Thats not good. I newer heard of this. But thats because I havent heard much about Corvetter bearings. What I know is that the original rear trailing arm didnt hold up on the old car, and in this case the wheel will move around to.
What I have done is to remacine the housing of the rear uppright to only become a bearing housing, keeping the bolt flange with its four bolts, to mount it in the new uppright.
I am also using 1/2" scrub distance both front and rear, and possitioned the bearing almost centered in the wheel, which lessen the twisting forces around the SA axle, for the uppright and spindle .
I am very happy if you could share some more information about this phenomenon.
Regards
Goran

0Randy@DRM

Corvette wheel bearings have never been good. We replace them all the time. Brand new bearings will not last a long time at all on the track. They need to be broken in a little on the street first. 10-20 thousand miles or so. The design of the bearing is most of the problem, they just don't hold up to harsh racing. You can get away with running fresh ones, and not have a lot of play. But they do get extremely hot later on in a race and this is where cooling and driver control plays in. Bashing off every bank is not going to make them hold up later in the race. I know you hate the idea of more ducts, but you have to give up some aero for some massive cooling.

Randy
I will put you in contact with the guy that has the solution, so you don't have to remake the uprights. I will send a PM with his info.

IT's late over there, go to bed and don't worry about it. The car will be wicked fast!!!

C6400hp

Whoa! Goran, Thats completely badass!