Guys with EOC on radiator
#1
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Guys with EOC on radiator
I have installed a DeWitts radiator with left side EOC in my 02 Z06.
When I start the engine after sitting a day or 2 it takes a few seconds to get oil pressure and I get a dash message stating low oil pressure for a few seconds. I assume the oil is draining back into the engine from the cooler. Is this going to harm the engine in the long run? Do any of you guys with EOCs in the radiator have the same issue? Thanks, Craig
When I start the engine after sitting a day or 2 it takes a few seconds to get oil pressure and I get a dash message stating low oil pressure for a few seconds. I assume the oil is draining back into the engine from the cooler. Is this going to harm the engine in the long run? Do any of you guys with EOCs in the radiator have the same issue? Thanks, Craig
#2
Le Mans Master
I have a very large external cooler mounted in front of my condensor on my '03 C5Z and I do not have that problem. The only time I ever saw that warning in the DIC was the first time I cranked the car after installing the cooler. Sounds like you may need to invest in an Accusump.
#3
Burning Brakes
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St. Jude Donor '07
I likely have the same setup as you. DeWitt radiator with left side EOC connections with the LPE block adapter that came with the line kit from DeWitt. No issues with oil pressure on start up though. I have had this setup for more then a year now.
I never really thought about it, but I wonder if it matters which way it flows and how you hooked it up. I.e. flow top to bottom connector or the other way around... I don't recall how I set it up myself!
I never really thought about it, but I wonder if it matters which way it flows and how you hooked it up. I.e. flow top to bottom connector or the other way around... I don't recall how I set it up myself!
#4
Safety Car
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I have no issues like that, I do believe there is something that should stop the oil from draining back into the pan, perhaps the lines are reversed?
#6
Drifting
Never had issue with DeWitts.
Check hoses for correct orientation.
If you have flow valve in line make sure it is installed in correct direction. If incorrect you will only get enough pressure that is forced back through filter bypass valve (usually 6-12 lbs) and if you check pressure at filter (as GM does does for checking for low pressure) it will indicate you have adequate pressure. After a short period of time you will not have any cam bearings. The mechanic who installed the system will swear there is another problem and the system was installed correctly. Ask me how I know.
An Accusump system is a cost effective device that will help on start up and at track.
Check hoses for correct orientation.
If you have flow valve in line make sure it is installed in correct direction. If incorrect you will only get enough pressure that is forced back through filter bypass valve (usually 6-12 lbs) and if you check pressure at filter (as GM does does for checking for low pressure) it will indicate you have adequate pressure. After a short period of time you will not have any cam bearings. The mechanic who installed the system will swear there is another problem and the system was installed correctly. Ask me how I know.
An Accusump system is a cost effective device that will help on start up and at track.
#7
Le Mans Master
I have installed a DeWitts radiator with left side EOC in my 02 Z06.
When I start the engine after sitting a day or 2 it takes a few seconds to get oil pressure and I get a dash message stating low oil pressure for a few seconds. I assume the oil is draining back into the engine from the cooler. Is this going to harm the engine in the long run? Do any of you guys with EOCs in the radiator have the same issue? Thanks, Craig
When I start the engine after sitting a day or 2 it takes a few seconds to get oil pressure and I get a dash message stating low oil pressure for a few seconds. I assume the oil is draining back into the engine from the cooler. Is this going to harm the engine in the long run? Do any of you guys with EOCs in the radiator have the same issue? Thanks, Craig
I have a Dewitt right side EOC.
#8
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
I thought about using the stock gasket which would actually allow a small amount of oil to bypass the cooler and would give instant flow to the engine. I think I will change the gasket. Did you see a noticable change in oil temp by doing this?
#9
Le Mans Master
The highest oil temps we have seen now are 281-285 - for the south, in the summer, pushing it hard - we are happy. 270 is average peak for a "normal day" at the track now. It is hard to get it to warm up in the winter months to 212 on the street
#10
Burning Brakes
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St. Jude Donor '10-'11
Ron Davis Right Side EOC with DRM line kit/adapter here.
No issues with "low pressure" lights; just takes a little longer for pressure to rise to normal reading.
No issues with "low pressure" lights; just takes a little longer for pressure to rise to normal reading.
#11
Le Mans Master
I had a local well known corvette race shop advise me that 160* oil temp was sufficient enough for the aluminum block to expand enough for bearing clearances. I've always used 180* as my benchmark though. Was this good advice?
#12
Le Mans Master
probably - I like to get the oil to 212 to boil out the inevitable water and gas residues...
#14
Le Mans Master
#15
Former Vendor
#16
Le Mans Master
#17
Former Vendor
Yea no kidding. It's been dryer then a popcorn fart around here. My point is the oil temp gauge doesn't have to read 212 to burn off the water. Put 5 cups of water on the stove, and turn the **** to about heat range 5. Come back a couple hours later and see how much water you have left. Without it ever reaching the 212 mark.
Randy
Randy
#18
Le Mans Master
Yea no kidding. It's been dryer then a popcorn fart around here. My point is the oil temp gauge doesn't have to read 212 to burn off the water. Put 5 cups of water on the stove, and turn the **** to about heat range 5. Come back a couple hours later and see how much water you have left. Without it ever reaching the 212 mark.
Randy
Randy
The oil temp gauge is a point temp reading - it is certainly much hotter (and cooler) in other regions of the engine.
The oil loss many attribute to track driving is really blowing off the lighter elements from fuel and water accumulating into the oil from sitting or low temp operations.
In that dry winter air in WI I have seen water evaporate at very low temps due the ambient air pulling it from the pot...
#20
Former Vendor
Yep - water is an amazing compound and has tremendous affinity for most things - the ice in my freezer sublimates(solid phase straight to gas) - but I still like making it into steam from nucleated boiling...especially since the oil is on top of water in any gravity dominated system. The water in oil will actually bound with most anything (sludge, carbon, bearing material, etc.) since it is bipolar and the bound can take more than 100C to break. In a pressurized system it can take a lot higher temps to distill it out.
The oil temp gauge is a point temp reading - it is certainly much hotter (and cooler) in other regions of the engine.
The oil loss many attribute to track driving is really blowing off the lighter elements from fuel and water accumulating into the oil from sitting or low temp operations.
In that dry winter air in WI I have seen water evaporate at very low temps due the ambient air pulling it from the pot...
The oil temp gauge is a point temp reading - it is certainly much hotter (and cooler) in other regions of the engine.
The oil loss many attribute to track driving is really blowing off the lighter elements from fuel and water accumulating into the oil from sitting or low temp operations.
In that dry winter air in WI I have seen water evaporate at very low temps due the ambient air pulling it from the pot...
That crazy thing called H20. You are 100 percent right. But have you seen the inside of a oil pan at 5000 rpm??? I don't think there is enough time for the oil and water to sit around. The oil is spraying around like crazy. I heard John Sheilds say once the oil in the ring area was almost 600 degrees. I think Redline Oil is where he got that info from.
I just don't see how a street engine that gets raced is going to have any problems running around the street at 180 oil temp. Too many short trips I can see a problem, but nothing a few more miles wouldn't help. Or a good old fashin oil change.
Randy