Options on a Tow Vehicle
#1
Drifting
Thread Starter
Options on a Tow Vehicle
I am looking at getting a proper tow vehicle in the coming months, specifically a 2500HD Chevy/GMC with the Duramax. I am wondering what options are worth getting and which ones aren't so good. For example, is it better to get the integrated brake controller or is there an aftermarket unit that is better? Are there any options that you all can't live without traveling to track days and if you had to do it again, what would you get? TIA
#2
CF Senior Member
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I've towed horse trailers for years and my first auto trailer (a Jim-Glo tilt trailer) will be finished this week. I'm not a big fan of diesel power but your choice seems like a good one to me. I continue to use my 2001 Suburban...3/4 ton, 4WD, 8.2 liter V8. My Suburban pulls great and with 3 kids it has the space and utility I need. I've always used an after-market 'brake box' and haven't had any problems. The only suggestion I would make is to consider getting a truck with 4WD. When you need 4WD you're glad you have it. Good luck!
#3
Team Owner
diesel, 4wd, trailer package. Quad cab, dooley
don't buy a short bed or get a short bed with extra cab then it is the same as a regular wheelbase PU. My friend has a new one like that but gas.
no interest deals rock bottom prices now is the time.
don't buy a short bed or get a short bed with extra cab then it is the same as a regular wheelbase PU. My friend has a new one like that but gas.
no interest deals rock bottom prices now is the time.
Last edited by John Shiels; 09-08-2008 at 01:01 PM.
#4
2500 hd
I bought a 2003 GMC 2500 HD 4 door Long Bed 4x4. 8.1 Gas Allison Auto.
Bought it on the lot, didn't order it. If I had to change anything I would have the brake controller installed from the factory. Mine didn't come with one and I had U haul install one and a 5th wheel hitch. The brake controller never worked right and I had to have a local RV dealer redo/rewire it.
Also I wish it had the camper mirrors that extend out. I use some that strap on the door when hauling my 5th wheel, but don't need them when pulling a open car trailer.
I had a 95 Chevrolet 1 ton dooley extended cab 2wd. 454 gas.
Replaced it with the above because we determined #1 we needed 4x4, the dooley truck would spin and get stuck on flat ground. #2 wanted the full 4 door model. #3 didn't need the dual wheels.
Good luck!
Later,
Bought it on the lot, didn't order it. If I had to change anything I would have the brake controller installed from the factory. Mine didn't come with one and I had U haul install one and a 5th wheel hitch. The brake controller never worked right and I had to have a local RV dealer redo/rewire it.
Also I wish it had the camper mirrors that extend out. I use some that strap on the door when hauling my 5th wheel, but don't need them when pulling a open car trailer.
I had a 95 Chevrolet 1 ton dooley extended cab 2wd. 454 gas.
Replaced it with the above because we determined #1 we needed 4x4, the dooley truck would spin and get stuck on flat ground. #2 wanted the full 4 door model. #3 didn't need the dual wheels.
Good luck!
Later,
#6
Drifting
Thread Starter
Thanks for all the tips guys. I should have put in my first post that I am shooting for a 4WD Quad cab with the standard length bed. It will not be a tow vehicle exclusively so I don't think I can justify a dooley.
Is there any advantage to go with the 17" wheels over the 16" (stronger, better tire options, etc.)?
#7
Just out of curiosity what are you calling the 'standard' bed?
I've got a 8 foot bed, mostly called a 'long bed'
Most trucks have a 6 foot bed, mostly called a 'short bed'
I can't answer any questions about tires size, mine are 16", what came on it.
I've got a 8 foot bed, mostly called a 'long bed'
Most trucks have a 6 foot bed, mostly called a 'short bed'
I can't answer any questions about tires size, mine are 16", what came on it.
#8
Drifting
Thread Starter
For the half tons, you have choices of a short, standard, and long bed. I guess I assumed it was that way for a 3/4 ton but looking at the web sites, it looks like you can only get standard or long on the HD trucks. On their site they give you the option of a standard (78.7") and long (97.6"). Unless it makes a big difference while towing and/or I can get a better deal on one, I was planning on going with the standard 78" bed.
#9
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If your trailer will be a gooseneck or 5th wheel, you will want to have a Long bed.
Because I pull a variety of trailers including a heavy 5th wheel camper - I'm very biased toward a 1 ton Diesel Dually. I currently drive a very well used 1999 Ford 7.3L PowerStroke with 190k miles that will last me another 200k miles unless I do something stupid. If I were to buy a new truck now it would probably be a GM 3500 Duramax Crewcab Dually.
Because I pull a variety of trailers including a heavy 5th wheel camper - I'm very biased toward a 1 ton Diesel Dually. I currently drive a very well used 1999 Ford 7.3L PowerStroke with 190k miles that will last me another 200k miles unless I do something stupid. If I were to buy a new truck now it would probably be a GM 3500 Duramax Crewcab Dually.
#10
Team Owner
I just bought an 08 Silverado Extended Cab LTZ 4x4 with the standard 6.5' box and it has the intergrated trailer brake controller. I have not had a chance to tow my traier and car (2000lb steel open trailer and 87 Vette) with this truck yet.
The owner's manual says that you should adjust the gain by driving at a slow speed (around 25MPH) with the trailer hooked up and at the typical weight when the trailer is loaded. You start with no gain and gradually raise the gain value until the manual brake lever will just lock the trailer brakes. It looks like this will take 3-4 tries as the gain value that is displayed goes from 0 to 10 The trailer gain values show up in the DIC under the Tach display and not on the unit on the lower part of the dash.
I had a Prodigy in my old truck and it had 4 settings based on weight of the trailer. It was pretty seamless in operation. A new Prodigy runs around $100 to $130 depending on where you get it.
If you have an enclosed trailer, get the optional power extension mirrors. That helps with being able to see past the trailer and you don't have to get out to adjust them.
Unfortunately, the new GM trucks do not have a "plug and play" harness included with the towing package. You have to find the wire harness under the dash and splice all of the wires together to an aftermarket harness. You don't even get a fuse to put in the underhood fuse center and you have to hook up the 12V power lead for the trailer connector. That wire is taped to a harness under the master cylinder.
The LTZ trim package includes the hitch and harness but the ITBC is a $200 option. I would get the ITBC simply because you won't have to mess with installing an aftermarket controller. My truck also has the rear parking sensors but the manual says you have to turn it off when towing a trailer.
The owner's manual says that you should adjust the gain by driving at a slow speed (around 25MPH) with the trailer hooked up and at the typical weight when the trailer is loaded. You start with no gain and gradually raise the gain value until the manual brake lever will just lock the trailer brakes. It looks like this will take 3-4 tries as the gain value that is displayed goes from 0 to 10 The trailer gain values show up in the DIC under the Tach display and not on the unit on the lower part of the dash.
I had a Prodigy in my old truck and it had 4 settings based on weight of the trailer. It was pretty seamless in operation. A new Prodigy runs around $100 to $130 depending on where you get it.
If you have an enclosed trailer, get the optional power extension mirrors. That helps with being able to see past the trailer and you don't have to get out to adjust them.
Unfortunately, the new GM trucks do not have a "plug and play" harness included with the towing package. You have to find the wire harness under the dash and splice all of the wires together to an aftermarket harness. You don't even get a fuse to put in the underhood fuse center and you have to hook up the 12V power lead for the trailer connector. That wire is taped to a harness under the master cylinder.
The LTZ trim package includes the hitch and harness but the ITBC is a $200 option. I would get the ITBC simply because you won't have to mess with installing an aftermarket controller. My truck also has the rear parking sensors but the manual says you have to turn it off when towing a trailer.
Last edited by c4cruiser; 09-08-2008 at 07:02 PM.
#11
Melting Slicks
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I purchased an '08 2500 HD w/ Duramax. I have the LTZ dual cab with the standard bed. It's a fantastic tow vehicle, but it's amazing how long you are when pulling a 24' trailer. You really have to plan your moves!!
The standard towing package really comes with everything you need. The factory brake controller is top notch. Trailer brake gain is shown on the DIC. The back-up accessories are nice, but I did not purchase that. The towing capacity between the 2500 HD and the 3500 HD is negligible so look for the best price. Sometimes you can find a 1 ton cheaper than the 3/4 ton.
I added a set of air bags for the rear and will soon be getting a 50 gallon fuel tank.
Regardless which way you go, you'll really enjoy the added torque and mileage of the diesel.
The standard towing package really comes with everything you need. The factory brake controller is top notch. Trailer brake gain is shown on the DIC. The back-up accessories are nice, but I did not purchase that. The towing capacity between the 2500 HD and the 3500 HD is negligible so look for the best price. Sometimes you can find a 1 ton cheaper than the 3/4 ton.
I added a set of air bags for the rear and will soon be getting a 50 gallon fuel tank.
Regardless which way you go, you'll really enjoy the added torque and mileage of the diesel.
#12
Race Director
If you have an enclosed trailer, get the optional power extension mirrors. That helps with being able to see past the trailer and you don't have to get out to adjust them.
Unfortunately, the new GM trucks do not have a "plug and play" harness included with the towing package. You have to find the wire harness under the dash and splice all of the wires together to an aftermarket harness. You don't even get a fuse to put in the underhood fuse center and you have to hook up the 12V power lead for the trailer connector. That wire is taped to a harness under the master cylinder.
The LTZ trim package includes the hitch and harness but the ITBC is a $200 option. I would get the ITBC simply because you won't have to mess with installing an aftermarket controller. My truck also has the rear parking sensors but the manual says you have to turn it off when towing a trailer.
I reused my brake controler from my old truck, of course in 15 months I just had to redo the double sided tape holding it to the lower side of the dash (I busted the bracket pulling it from the old truck gonna put to lil holes and tie wrap it, just pisses me off to no end)
the 2500 subs are only available as LT's (no LTZ and didn't offer the brake controller built in....ticked me off and was checking out a buddy's 07 2500 sierra might be addable but dealer parts are gonna add up quickly)
as for the backup sensors, mine actually shut off after beeping so much they tick me off, but htey shut off on their own, even with just the WD hitch on the back, its got some brains. Also when you hit tow/haul it does lil things like if you just tap the turn signal (but not click it) it flashes 6x's vs the usual 3x's
Also get the backup camera......I love that stupid thing so much, from parking lots, to parallel parking, to avoiding the usual get in the truck get out, get in, get out of backing up to the trailer, now its a breeze, works great at night as well. totally worth the price!!
Oh plan on buying aftermarket wheels, the 16's and new 17's are still ugly (well teh 16's are nice but 285's aren't supported with teh narrow width.) I picked up some weld racing rims that actually mentioned a load rating in 20x8.5 and the truck looks much better now.
also look at the fuses for the trailer plug, for the hell of it carry extras, I've borrowed trailers with not so perfect wiring and popped the power line which is one of those weird square ones (agp or something?) nothing like being on the side of the road late night with no trailer lights saying.......do I drive and risk the ticket or what?
PS. make sure you get/have dual batteries. My truck doesn't have them and honestly I'ma bout to toss the factory battery adn buy 2 yellow tops, the one that comes with the truck sucks, twice I've come outside and had it dead from a radar detector and a phone charger over night I forgot and left on. I'm pretty sure I needed to order the snowplow package on a 2500 sub for the second battery, but the diesel SHOULD come with it. if its optional get it.
Last edited by undertaker; 09-08-2008 at 07:15 PM.
#13
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I also have an extra 80 gallon diesel tank and think it is a "must" if you will be pulling your trailer long distances. It is really nice not having to stop and negoitate around fuel pumps with a trailer every 2 hours. The extra capacity also allows you to be more selective in when/where you stop for fuel. It allows you to keep moving through areas you don't feel safe stopping or are just too high in price.
#14
Safety Car
I agree with John.
Now is the time to buy!!
I just bought a 2008 2500HD 4WD. 6.2 liter. Basic Work Truck.
GM Employee pricing.
Rebates $1000 Cash to Customer start: 09/03/2008 end: 09/30/2008 Get Dealer Pricing
Restrictions $1000 Customer Cash may not be combined with 4.9% - 7.9% APR.
Comments Dealer participation may vary. Incentives and Rebates are provided subject to the terms of our Visitor Agreement.
$4000 Cash to Customer start: 09/03/2008 end: 09/30/2008 Get Dealer Pricing
Restrictions GM Purchase Bonus Cash is not compatible with supported GMAC Smartbuy/Smartlease contracts.
Financing Start: 09/03/2008 End: 09/30/2008 4.9% APR Term: 36 months Get Dealer Pricing
4.9% APR Term: 48 months Get Dealer Pricing
4.9% APR Term: 60 months Get Dealer Pricing
7.9% APR Term: 72 months Get Dealer Pricing
Restrictions $1000 Customer Cash may not be combined with 4.9% - 7.9% APR.
So you get $5000 and employee pricing - from GM .
Then work with the dealer from there - it's getting late to have 2008s sitting around.
Now is the time to buy!!
I just bought a 2008 2500HD 4WD. 6.2 liter. Basic Work Truck.
GM Employee pricing.
Rebates $1000 Cash to Customer start: 09/03/2008 end: 09/30/2008 Get Dealer Pricing
Restrictions $1000 Customer Cash may not be combined with 4.9% - 7.9% APR.
Comments Dealer participation may vary. Incentives and Rebates are provided subject to the terms of our Visitor Agreement.
$4000 Cash to Customer start: 09/03/2008 end: 09/30/2008 Get Dealer Pricing
Restrictions GM Purchase Bonus Cash is not compatible with supported GMAC Smartbuy/Smartlease contracts.
Financing Start: 09/03/2008 End: 09/30/2008 4.9% APR Term: 36 months Get Dealer Pricing
4.9% APR Term: 48 months Get Dealer Pricing
4.9% APR Term: 60 months Get Dealer Pricing
7.9% APR Term: 72 months Get Dealer Pricing
Restrictions $1000 Customer Cash may not be combined with 4.9% - 7.9% APR.
So you get $5000 and employee pricing - from GM .
Then work with the dealer from there - it's getting late to have 2008s sitting around.
Last edited by Bink; 09-08-2008 at 10:15 PM.
#15
Drifting
Thread Starter
Thanks for all the input everyone. I have to say, as much as I would love the 1 ton, this truck has to serve other purposes than towing and I think it would be more of a hassle than it is worth for my needs in the foreseeable future. For those of you that say the long bed it worth it, is that due to some goose neck trailers not allowing the truck to get to a full 90 degrees with the trailer or is it because the longer wheelbase truck just pulls better (in cross winds, etc.)?
For those of you that have had these for a while, how well do they hold up? Aside from the great deals right now, I have heard such good things about the Duramax/Allison, that is the main reason I am looking at GM. From what I have read, these things are good for hundred of thousands of miles, but if anyone can confirm with their own experience, I'd like to hear about it.
For those of you that have had these for a while, how well do they hold up? Aside from the great deals right now, I have heard such good things about the Duramax/Allison, that is the main reason I am looking at GM. From what I have read, these things are good for hundred of thousands of miles, but if anyone can confirm with their own experience, I'd like to hear about it.
#16
Premium Supporting Vendor
I am looking at getting a proper tow vehicle in the coming months, specifically a 2500HD Chevy/GMC with the Duramax. I am wondering what options are worth getting and which ones aren't so good. For example, is it better to get the integrated brake controller or is there an aftermarket unit that is better? Are there any options that you all can't live without traveling to track days and if you had to do it again, what would you get? TIA
For more stability with my new larger 28' trailer, I upgraded again this year to a 3500HD Sierra SLT (dually). Love the truck.
Brake controller - I'm a big fan of the integrated brake controller. I've had three aftermarket ones now (Durango, F350 and RV) and feel that the one in my GMC is much better. Not only is it adjustable, its proportional to how hard you are pushing on the brake.
Still love the parking assist.
Wouldn't take a long trip without satellite radio.
DVD Nav system in the Sierra is the best one I've ever had.
Enjoy your new truck!
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#17
Instructor
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Thanks for all the input everyone. I have to say, as much as I would love the 1 ton, this truck has to serve other purposes than towing and I think it would be more of a hassle than it is worth for my needs in the foreseeable future. For those of you that say the long bed it worth it, is that due to some goose neck trailers not allowing the truck to get to a full 90 degrees with the trailer or is it because the longer wheelbase truck just pulls better (in cross winds, etc.)?
For those of you that have had these for a while, how well do they hold up? Aside from the great deals right now, I have heard such good things about the Duramax/Allison, that is the main reason I am looking at GM. From what I have read, these things are good for hundred of thousands of miles, but if anyone can confirm with their own experience, I'd like to hear about it.
For those of you that have had these for a while, how well do they hold up? Aside from the great deals right now, I have heard such good things about the Duramax/Allison, that is the main reason I am looking at GM. From what I have read, these things are good for hundred of thousands of miles, but if anyone can confirm with their own experience, I'd like to hear about it.
The Duramax/Allison is a great combo and will last a very long time. My father-in-law loves his. As I mentioned before, my 7.3L PSD already has 190k miles and there are many examples of diesel pickup trucks lasting over 500k miles. However, keep in mind that all the other parts on the truck will wearout before the engine so over time it will look like an old truck. Mine still runs great but looks like a POS
#18
Team Owner
Thanks for all the input everyone. I have to say, as much as I would love the 1 ton, this truck has to serve other purposes than towing and I think it would be more of a hassle than it is worth for my needs in the foreseeable future. For those of you that say the long bed it worth it, is that due to some goose neck trailers not allowing the truck to get to a full 90 degrees with the trailer or is it because the longer wheelbase truck just pulls better (in cross winds, etc.)?
For those of you that have had these for a while, how well do they hold up? Aside from the great deals right now, I have heard such good things about the Duramax/Allison, that is the main reason I am looking at GM. From what I have read, these things are good for hundred of thousands of miles, but if anyone can confirm with their own experience, I'd like to hear about it.
For those of you that have had these for a while, how well do they hold up? Aside from the great deals right now, I have heard such good things about the Duramax/Allison, that is the main reason I am looking at GM. From what I have read, these things are good for hundred of thousands of miles, but if anyone can confirm with their own experience, I'd like to hear about it.
Testing oil on my Dodge Cummins it show almost no wear in the last 115K. Never have to had add oil between 10,000 miles dino oil changes. It also shows no oil in the fuel after 10,000 but the Ford diesel has reduced the oil from 15/40 to 10/30by 7500 miles so I change it at 5.000. It may be partly do to the Excursion idling a lot more.
Longer wheelbase will give a better ride and be more stable. Take it to the extreme and think Jeep. Try some truck forums but remember bad news travels fast.
Last edited by John Shiels; 09-09-2008 at 01:18 PM.