waktasz

I've had three alignments since July when I got my 02 Z06. I autocross the car a couple times a month and it seems like after every couple of events the alignment is out of whack. I run in SCCA SS class so I can only use the OEM adjustments for alignment, so what can I do? Do the camber lobes get worn and need to be replaced? I'd love it if that was the problem and I could just replace them and be good to go for the future.

Rob's 73

Make sure you mark the the lobes next time and just readjust as necesssary.

AU N EGL

Hardbar has camber kits

http://hardbarusa.com/hardbar/produc...products_id=41

ghoffman

That is why we invented the camber kit in 2000! The kit replaces the alinement cams with 1/2 inch thick CNC plates. The offset (in mm) is laser etched on the plate then you shim the uppers for camber and caster.
The Hardbar camber kit is the original and the best and is now improved with Nordlocks for the custom 17-4 PH stainless steel upper a-arm studs. This kit is used by some of the top Pros in the biz. In several World Challenges races the car was hit so hard that the $1500 BBS wheel was destroyed, but the alinement did not change!





http://hardbarusa.com/hardbar/produc...products_id=56

TedDBere

Matt, I've been told that the stock concentrics are only good for three alignments then they need to be replaced due to the stretching of the threads.

Good luck.

Poor-sha

I have a C6Z that is a street/track car. With this kit can I easily change the alignment from a street to track alignment without putting it on an alignment rack (i.e. in my garage)? Does it work with coilovers (Motons)?

mikahb

I've had 2 C5 Z's, one an autoX car and my current one a T1 car. Camber kits are illegal in T1 and in SS also, so unfortunately that's not a great option for you. That being said, I've had both cars aligned many times, and never had a single instance of slippage. The well-known guy that aligns my car says most shops just don't get the bolts tight enough. He aligns it, marks it, and it stays put. So, mark it next time, and then crank those suckers down tight!

waktasz

Thanks guys. I'll mark them for sure after the next time and make sure I get under there afterwards and tighten them as much as I can.

Ted, I've also heard that about the bolts stretching, didn't realize it was the threads. Does anyone know the part numbers of the stock rear camber bolts?

froggy47

Most align shops do not tighten enough, use torque wrench & go to the spec. & mark it. Should be fine.

dbratten

I use the Pfadt Camber kit (purchased with their COs) for this purpose but the Hardbar kit functions the same. You can switch between settings (street & track) easily by changing shims and/or plates and only need to reset toe. Toe can be set by counting flats (six per full turn on the tie-rod) without having to measure each time. Once you determine your settings for each purpose it takes less than an hour to swap settings while you're changing tires. COs are not a problem.

Also check out David Farmer's tutorial on doing your own alignments. I was able to stop buying alignments a year and a half ago.

--Dan

VetteDrmr

A friend of mine had his alignment done by a "performance" shop. One day out on the track the camber bolt slipped and slid full inboard, right in the middle of a 80 mph sweeper. Fortunately he gathered it up, pulled off course, and went back to this same shop.

Afterwards we took his car to my house, where I got out my torque wrench and tightened the front bolts over one full turn, the rears between a half and a full turn.

That shop went out of business.

I've never had a camber bolt slip during 7 years of autocross and DEs. Of course, you may have stickier tires than I do.

HTH, and have a good one,
Mike

J.R.

Pfadt camber kit.

www.pfadtracing.com

Great setup. I believe Gary's works on same principle.

WBHighwind

I will be getting a camber kit in the future but I have been wondering if I can make my own alignment without it and some fancy tools. Thanks for the link to that tutorial.

jvp

I agree with most of what you said here except the "go to spec" part. Over-tighten it. Don't follow the spec. If you do, it'll loosen on you and the alignment will go out of whack again.

Crank those concentrics. Hard.

jas

mountainbiker2

I'm running 315/335 Kumho V710's. Never had it slip. That's because you have to use a torque wrench. 125lbs. If you don't do that, they will slip.

Steve

C66 Racing

Since you are required to run the stock concentric bolts, I'll echo what was said above. I raced about 30 times, almost all of them on the stock concentric bolts and have any only a few instances of cam slippage. After your alignment, mark them so you can see if they move (I actually use fingernail polish - a little strip from the cam to the frame). Torque them down, tighten them often and check your marks and your problems will likely dimish a lot if not go away entirely.

FYI, if my car turns into a DE only car I'd go with the Harbar kit.

WBHighwind

While we are on the topic of race alignments on stock eccentrics, what is a good race alignment on stock eccentrics? I am doing an HPDE later this month and am going to set myself up for it in every aspect.

ghoffman

Actually, you should measure the running torque of the nut and add that to the required torque. The smashed nuts that are used require a significant amount of torque to overcome their own resistance and that subtracts from the preload of the fastener. I recommend that you use free running castle nuts and cotter pins or plain nuts with Nordlocks, both with a drop of oil.

VetteDrmr

Gary,

Wouldn't GM take that into account when they publish the torque specs?

Mike

ghoffman

Sure (well, perhaps) and that might be applicaple for a new, clean part on the assembly line for street cars, but after dirt and corrosion and multiple uses, it is not necessarily the same.