BrianCunningham

I've got a HD electric water pump on my car, but I may got back to a mechanical for road courses. The reason being the HD EWP puts out a constant 55gpm which is great for drag racing and autoxing, but, so I've heard, a mechanical pump puts out 110gpm at speed.

I've been told 240 water temp at the track is normal, last time I saw 244 and I wasn't really on it.

I have a BeCool radiator, but no oil cooler so far.
My oil temps were 270.

What's everyone else seeing?

AU N EGL

Coolant 210-220 stock radiator
Oil 240 -245 separate oil cooler

J.R.

On a 100 deg day at 4500 ft elevation I see 215 deg water and 250 deg oil on a hard 30 minute session.

This is with stock water pump, DeWitt radiator and Pfadt external oil cooler.

fmrfast

My C4 L98 has a Howe aluminum radiator & underdrive pulleys, it runs water temp is about 220-230 degrees under race conditions even on hot days, it has a stock waterpump.
If the coolant flows to fast it doesnt allow the water enough time in the radiator for proper cooling. Alot a variables to consider. Nothing like spending track days to sort the car out
By the way it is a low RPM motor I shift at 5500 it has 290 RWHP. I know some guys are spinning 7000 which is totally different story

I have a big Fluidyne oil cooler & run in the 230 -240 range 90 + degrees at NJMSP for the race in July

Hi RPM will add to oil temp which in turn will add to coolant temp, adding the BIG oil cooler may get you where you want to be with both.

Aardwolf

At my last event it was about 85° outside and my C4 ran a max of 195° coolant and 245° oil temp. That is with the A/C equipment on the car and a trans cooler out front. Also I have an Edelbrock water pump. I rode in an instructors C6 that hit 290° oil temp that day.

tmak26b

Stock, 220F water and 270-280 oil

0Vector Vette

Brian,
We could get the L98 motors to run below 200 on water but never could get the LT1 to do that. 240 is too high though. I ran my C4 with a Meziere electric water pump, Griffin radiator, heat extractor hood, take the guts out of the thermostat, block off the bypass for the quick warmup, water with just a little anti-freeze for corrosion protection. I had my rev-limiter set at 7200. With this setup the car would run between 210 and 220 water.

rasrboy

I have been very fortunate with temps on my LS6 T1 motor. Hot day in the upper 80's for a 30 minute session was 215-220 water and 235-240 oil. I have a nice size oil cooler and bigger radiator per T1 rules.

Knock on wood it stays like that, cause those numbers are good with me!

Aaron Quine

yakisoba

I run hot. 250 or so oil, 220 water. I have an oil cooler but the stock radiator. About due to replace that. w/o oil cooler, was hitting 270+ oil temps. Had to back off that.

RedLS6

On an 80-degree day - C5 Z06

230-235 water, with a stock radiator
270-280 degree oil, with an external Setrab oil cooler setup.

.

CHJ In Virginia

95 Degree day at VIR this August -- Stock radiator and DRM oil cooler - Water 215 and oil 245 at the end of a 30 minute ***** to the wall session.

Sidney004

LT1 with 290 RWHP, stock radiator, no oil cooler, RL 10W-40, 90 ambient: Water 230, Oil 285-295

larryfs

you need to compare C4 to C4, and C5 to C5. otherwise your wasting your time.

when I was running my (stock) LT4 very hard, and I mean B@lls to the wall for 30 minutes, red lining every shift, I saw 298 oil temps, and 225 water temps. I wanted to hit 300 oil temp, so I could see the idiot light, but the session ended. This is all stock, with R tires.

More recently, I won't red line every shift, and have backed off to 90%.
water temps are now 205, and oil temps 260. If I throw a short shift in there, oil temps come right down, Brake pads last longer, and rotors seem to live another day. and my wallet feels heavier too.

BrianCunningham

Ah, so it's NOT the EWP.

I really worried about this since I'm about to mount a supercharger on the car.

Aardwolf

Though even as mentioned above, L98 to LT1 is different. I even have under drive pulleys on mine.

MarkBychowski

Vector, thanks very much for posting that info!

Brian, I'm in the same boat as you -- albeit with no boost and less HP, but shifting at 7K with a Mez pump and griffin radiator. On the street and the dyno the setup is fine, but I haven't been able to get it on the track yet this year to do the real test!

I've been pretty nervous, but Vector's post gives me hope that I won't need to swap the pump out!

0Vector Vette

Mark,
The water pump is not a problem. I ran it on my SCCA racecar for years. It is a 383 LT4 with 465 rwhp.

WNDOPDLR

L98 dry sump W/O AC or condenser. 200degrees water and 180 degree oil after flat out session in GA summer heat at RA. Only turn on fans when I am in the pits. I run an Edelbrock water pump and water wetter only in the summer. I add minimal antifreeze in the fall for winter track days.

ScaryFast

Sounds like an ST1 car

C66 Racing

Very similar numbers but I have a DRM aluminum radiator which is allowed by T1 rules vice the stock radiator. With the stock radiator I was seeing water temps upwards of 240 in the hot Midwest summer. With the DRM radiator my water temps came down notably.